A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Warning

Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings.

You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.

You must keep this warning with the guide.

For more information refer to our Usage policy

Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

anon

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Teufelsturm 24 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 14.218969, 50.905249

Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Alter Weg {SX} VIIb Trad
2 Alter Weg (oU)

without support

{SX} VIIc Trad
3 Direkte Ostwand (RP)

red point

{SX} IXa Trad
4 Fastnacht {SX} IXb Trad
5 Fern von Eden {SX} Xc Trad
6 Hexenschuss {SX} VIIIc Trad
7 Karneval in Rio {SX} Xa Trad
8 Mephisto (RP)

red point

{SX} IXc Trad
9 Nordwestverschneidung {SX} VIIb Trad
10 Nordwestverschneidung (oU)

without support

{SX} VIIc Trad
11 Ostwand {SX} VIIIb Trad
12 Ostwand (oU)

without support

{SX} VIIIc Trad
13 Pferdefuß (RP)

red point

{SX} Xc Trad
14 Regulator {SX} IXb Trad
15 Schwarz und Weiß {SX} IXa Trad
16 Sonnenuhr {SX} IXa Trad
17 Talseite {SX} VIIIa Trad
18 Talseite (oU)

without support

{SX} VIIIb Trad
19 Teufelei {SX} Xc Trad
20 Volle Talseite {SX} VIIIa Trad
21 Volle Talseite (oU)

without support

{SX} VIIIb Trad
22 Warum nur Schwarz und Weiß? (RP)

red point

{SX} IXc Trad
23 Westwand {SX} IXa Trad
24 Zwischen Himmel und Hölle {SX} Xa Trad

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
VIIb Alter Weg Trad
Nordwestverschneidung Trad
VIIc Alter Weg (oU) Trad
Nordwestverschneidung (oU) Trad
VIIIa Talseite Trad
Volle Talseite Trad
VIIIb Ostwand Trad
Talseite (oU) Trad
Volle Talseite (oU) Trad
VIIIc Hexenschuss Trad
Ostwand (oU) Trad
IXa Direkte Ostwand (RP) Trad
Schwarz und Weiß Trad
Sonnenuhr Trad
Westwand Trad
IXb Fastnacht Trad
Regulator Trad
IXc Mephisto (RP) Trad
Warum nur Schwarz und Weiß? (RP) Trad
Xa Karneval in Rio Trad
Zwischen Himmel und Hölle Trad
Xc Fern von Eden Trad
Pferdefuß (RP) Trad
Teufelei Trad