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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
SX III Alter Weg Trad
2
SX VIIIa Bergkameradenweg Trad
3
SX VIIIb Diagonale Trad
4
SX VIIIc Direkte Südwand (RP) Trad

red point

5
SX VIIIb Einfache Tat Trad
6
SX VIIb Gondaleiter Trad
8
SX IXc Heile Welt (RP) Trad

red point

9
SX V Herbstvariante Trad
10
SX III Hohe Scharte Trad
11

red point

12
SX IXb Indianerland Trad
13
SX IV Kantenvariante Trad
14
SX VIIIa Linksaußen Trad
15
SX VIIb Lorenztürmerweg Trad
16
SX III Muldenvariante Trad
17
SX IXb Neue Westwand (RP) Trad

red point

18
SX VIIa Neuer Schartenweg Trad
19
SX VIIIa Nordwestpfeiler Trad
20
SX Xa Oklahoma Trad
21
SX VIIa Ostwand Trad
22
SX VIIa Ostweg Trad
23
SX Xa Prickelnoppe Trad
24
SX IXb Pustekuchen Trad
25
SX IXc Rauher Osten Trad
26
SX IXb Riesenwarze Trad
27
SX Xa Riesenwarze (oU) Trad

without support

28
SX VIIIa Sandiger Weg Trad
29
SX III Schartenweg Trad
30
SX VIIa Schluchtriß Trad
31
SX IXb Sonntagsziehung Trad
32
SX VIIIb Südostkante Trad
33
SX VIIc Südwand Trad
34
SX VIIIc Südwestkante Trad
37
38
SX VIIc Verborgene Hangel Trad
39
SX IXb Way of Life (RP) Trad

red point

40
SX VIIIa Westflügel Trad
41
SX IV Westrinne Trad
42
SX VIIIc Westwand Trad
43
SX VIIIa Westweg Trad
44
SX VIIIa W-Flügel Trad
45
SX IXc Wilder Einstieg Trad
46
SX Xa Wilder Kaiser Trad
47
SX VIIIc Wilder Westen Trad
48
SX V Zufallsweg Trad
49
SX IXb Zwei Welten Trad