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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
{SX} III Alter Weg Trad
2
{SX} VIIIa Bergkameradenweg Trad
3
{SX} VIIIb Diagonale Trad
4
{SX} VIIIc Direkte Südwand (RP) Trad

red point

5
{SX} VIIIb Einfache Tat Trad
6
{SX} VIIb Gondaleiter Trad
8
{SX} IXc Heile Welt (RP) Trad

red point

9
{SX} V Herbstvariante Trad
10
{SX} III Hohe Scharte Trad
11
{SX} Xa Horrorstreifen (RP) Trad

red point

12
{SX} IXb Indianerland Trad
13
{SX} IV Kantenvariante Trad
14
{SX} VIIIa Linksaußen Trad
15
{SX} VIIb Lorenztürmerweg Trad
16
{SX} III Muldenvariante Trad
17
{SX} IXb Neue Westwand (RP) Trad

red point

18
{SX} VIIa Neuer Schartenweg Trad
19
{SX} VIIIa Nordwestpfeiler Trad
20
{SX} Xa Oklahoma Trad
21
{SX} VIIa Ostwand Trad
22
{SX} VIIa Ostweg Trad
23
{SX} Xa Prickelnoppe Trad
24
{SX} IXb Pustekuchen Trad
25
{SX} IXc Rauher Osten Trad
26
{SX} IXb Riesenwarze Trad
27
{SX} Xa Riesenwarze (oU) Trad

without support

28
{SX} VIIIa Sandiger Weg Trad
29
{SX} III Schartenweg Trad
30
{SX} VIIa Schluchtriß Trad
31
{SX} IXb Sonntagsziehung Trad
32
{SX} VIIIb Südostkante Trad
33
{SX} VIIc Südwand Trad
34
{SX} VIIIc Südwestkante Trad
36
{SX} VIIa Variante zum Zufallsweg Trad
37
{SX} VIIb Variante zur Südwand Trad
38
{SX} VIIc Verborgene Hangel Trad
39
{SX} IXb Way of Life (RP) Trad

red point

40
{SX} VIIIa Westflügel Trad
41
{SX} IV Westrinne Trad
42
{SX} VIIIc Westwand Trad
43
{SX} VIIIa Westweg Trad
44
{SX} VIIIa W-Flügel Trad
45
{SX} IXc Wilder Einstieg Trad
46
{SX} Xa Wilder Kaiser Trad
47
{SX} VIIIc Wilder Westen Trad
48
{SX} V Zufallsweg Trad
49
{SX} IXb Zwei Welten Trad