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Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 Alter Weg
III
Trad
2 Bergkameradenweg
VIIIa
Trad
3 Diagonale
VIIIb
Trad
4 Direkte Südwand (RP)

red point

VIIIc
Trad
5 Einfache Tat
VIIIb
Trad
6 Gondaleiter
VIIb
Trad
7 Gondaleiter - Heute meist...
VIIa
Trad
8 Heile Welt (RP)

red point

IXc
Trad
9 Herbstvariante
V
Trad
10 Hohe Scharte
III
Trad
11 Horrorstreifen (RP)

red point

Xa
Trad
12 Indianerland
IXb
Trad
13 Kantenvariante
IV
Trad
14 Linksaußen
VIIIa
Trad
15 Lorenztürmerweg
VIIb
Trad
16 Muldenvariante
III
Trad
17 Neue Westwand (RP)

red point

IXb
Trad
18 Neuer Schartenweg
VIIa
Trad
19 Nordwestpfeiler
VIIIa
Trad
20 Oklahoma
Xa
Trad
21 Ostwand
VIIa
Trad
22 Ostweg
VIIa
Trad
23 Prickelnoppe
Xa
Trad
24 Pustekuchen
IXb
Trad
25 Rauher Osten
IXc
Trad
26 Riesenwarze
IXb
Trad
27 Riesenwarze (oU)

without support

Xa
Trad
28 Sandiger Weg
VIIIa
Trad
29 Schartenweg
III
Trad
30 Schluchtriß
VIIa
Trad
31 Sonntagsziehung
IXb
Trad
32 Südostkante
VIIIb
Trad
33 Südwand
VIIc
Trad
34 Südwestkante
VIIIc
Trad
35 Variante zum Schluchtriß
VI
Trad
36 Variante zum Zufallsweg
VIIa
Trad
37 Variante zur Südwand
VIIb
Trad
38 Verborgene Hangel
VIIc
Trad
39 Way of Life (RP)

red point

IXb
Trad
40 Westflügel
VIIIa
Trad
41 Westrinne
IV
Trad
42 Westwand
VIIIc
Trad
43 Westweg
VIIIa
Trad
44 W-Flügel
VIIIa
Trad
45 Wilder Einstieg
IXc
Trad
46 Wilder Kaiser
Xa
Trad
47 Wilder Westen
VIIIc
Trad
48 Zufallsweg
V
Trad
49 Zwei Welten
IXb
Trad