Hello!

First time here?

theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.

You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...

» Go exploring, » Learn more or » Ask us a question

Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
2

red point

3

red point

4
SX III Alter Weg Trad
5
SX Xa Dammriß Trad
7
SX VIIa Dunkle Kluft Trad
8
SX IXc Edelrausch Trad
9
SX IXa Elefantenfuß Trad
10
SX VIIIc Gerader Purzelbaum Trad
11
SX VIIa Gipfelstürmerweg Trad
12
SX IV Klemmweg Trad
13
SX III Kreuzweg Trad
14
SX VIIIc Nordwestwand Trad
15
SX VIIc/1 Pflaster (RP) Trad

red point

16
SX VIIIa Purzelbaum Trad
17
SX Xa Rosa Rauschen Trad
18
SX VI/1 Schramme Trad
19
SX VIIb Schruppi Trad
20
SX III Schuellerweg Trad
21
SX VIIIc Sonntagsvesper Trad
22
SX VIIa Sonntagsweg Trad
23
SX Xa Spagat Trad
24
SX VIIIa Tödlicher Ernst Trad
25
SX VI Übergangsweg Trad
28
SX IV Vergessener Kamin Trad
29
SX Xb Verlockung Trad
30
SX IXa Weihnachtsgeschenk Trad
31
SX IXa Westflügel Trad
32
SX III Westkamin Trad
33

red point

34
SX VIIIc Westpfeiler Trad
35
SX IV Westrippe Trad