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A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

anon

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Winklerturm 26 routes in Cliff

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
Seasonality
All Trad climbing

Long/Lat: 14.230342, 50.901741

Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Alter Weg IV Trad
2 Aurora IXa Trad
3 Aurora direkt (RP)

red point

IXa Trad
4 Der Nächste,bitte ! VIIb Trad
5 Direkte Nordkante VIIIb Trad
6 Direkte Nordostwand VIIIb Trad
7 Direkte Westkante VIIb Trad
8 EV zum Alten Weg IV Trad
9 Fragment IXa Trad
10 Gerbingweg IV Trad
11 Interferenz VIIIb Trad
12 Neue Variante V Trad
13 Nordkante VI Trad
14 Nordostwand VIIIa Trad
15 Reibungsvariante VI Trad
16 Reibungsvariante zu Gerbingweg VI Trad
17 Ringvariante VIIa Trad
18 Sattlervariante IV Trad
19 Schwarze Maske IXb Trad
20 Serpentine VIIa Trad
21 Südostkante VIIIa Trad
22 Südostkante (oU)

without support

VIIIc Trad
23 Südwand

FA: Rudolf Klemm, H. Mehne & A. Vollhardt, 1913

VIIa Mixed 1
24 Variante zur Südwand VIIa Trad
25 Westkante VI Trad
26 Zweites Gesicht IXc Trad

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
IV Alter Weg Trad
EV zum Alten Weg Trad
Gerbingweg Trad
Sattlervariante Trad
V Neue Variante Trad
VI Nordkante Trad
Reibungsvariante Trad
Reibungsvariante zu Gerbingweg Trad
Westkante Trad
VIIa Ringvariante Trad
Serpentine Trad
Südwand Mixed 1
Variante zur Südwand Trad
VIIb Der Nächste,bitte ! Trad
Direkte Westkante Trad
VIIIa Nordostwand Trad
Südostkante Trad
VIIIb Direkte Nordkante Trad
Direkte Nordostwand Trad
Interferenz Trad
VIIIc Südostkante (oU) Trad
IXa Aurora Trad
Aurora direkt (RP) Trad
Fragment Trad
IXb Schwarze Maske Trad
IXc Zweites Gesicht Trad