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Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Areas

Map Name Style Climbs Ascents Height Grade Band Topos
1Stiegenwächter Cliff All Trad 120
2Ülmtülp Cliff All Trad 80
3Nebelturm Cliff All Trad 200
4Rotkehlchenturm Cliff All Trad 200
5Turm am Verborgenen Horn Cliff All Trad 490
6Heringsschwanz Cliff All Trad 110
7Hinterer Bussardturm Cliff All Trad 200
8Bussardwand Cliff All Trad 242
9Bussard Cliff All Trad 121
10Mittlerer Bussardturm Cliff All Trad 140
11Brechstange Cliff All Trad 90
12Rauschensteiner Turm Cliff All Trad 90
13Muschelkopf Cliff All Trad 261
14Vorderer Bussardturm Cliff All Trad 160
15Flohspitze Cliff All Trad 151
16Windspitze Cliff All Trad 71
17Heringsgrundnadel Cliff All Trad 100
18Heiliger Wenzel Cliff All Trad 94
19Heringsgrundscheibe Cliff All Trad 80
20Heringsgrundwächter Cliff All Trad 110
21Dorn Cliff All Trad 140
22Flüchtling Cliff All Trad 110
23Bonbon Cliff All Trad 60
24Gerbingspitze Cliff All Trad 430
25Fluchtwand Cliff All Trad 520
26Neue Wenzelwand / Wenzelwand Cliff All Trad 361
27Großer Schartenkopf Cliff All Trad 60
28Kleiner Schartenkopf Cliff All Trad 70
29Schwarzes Horn Cliff All Trad 631
30Püschnerturm Cliff All Trad 260
31Schneeberger Spitze Cliff All Trad 230
32Frühlingsturm Cliff All Trad 130
33Vorderer Schneeberger Turm Cliff All Trad 160
34Schneeberger Nadel Cliff All Trad 70
35Hinterer Schneeberger Turm Cliff All Trad 80
36Abendturm Cliff All Trad 30
37Alter Bock Cliff All Trad 70
38Pfadfinder Cliff All Trad 70