Crag Guide for Schmilka

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Table of contents

1. Schmilka 2,115 routes in Crag

46352

2 Elbtal - Kipphorn, 3 Rauschengrund, 4 Heringsgrund, 5 Wurzel - Poblätzschwände, 6 Lehnsteig

seasonality

Summary:

All Trad

Long/Lat: 14.238854, 50.900481

Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

• Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
• No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
• No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
• no chalk, no pof
• Sign the summit register.
• Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
• Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
• Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

1.1. Notenwart 1 route in Cliff

Summary:

1.2. Elbtal - Kipphorn 233 routes in Area

67132548121311109

1 Elbtalhorn, 2 Teufelsturm, 3 Spitzkegel, 4 Elbtalwächter, 5 Hohe Wand, 6 Breite-Kluft-Wand, 7 Breite-Kluft-Turm, 8 Bismarckfels, 9 Zufallsturm, 10 Kipphornwächter, 11 Wand am Kipphorn, 12 Vorderer Spätling, 13 Hinterer Spätling

Summary:

Long/Lat: 14.230012, 50.897077

1.2.1. Elbtalhorn 30 routes in Cliff

Summary:

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Long/Lat: 14.215588, 50.906183

1.2.2. Teufelsturm 24 routes in Cliff

Summary:

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Long/Lat: 14.218969, 50.905249

1.2.3. Spitzkegel 15 routes in Cliff

Summary:

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Long/Lat: 14.218829, 50.905819

1.2.4. Elbtalwächter 14 routes in Cliff

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Long/Lat: 14.217703, 50.902288

1.2.5. Hohe Wand 22 routes in Cliff

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Long/Lat: 14.220905, 50.905119

1.2.6. Breite-Kluft-Wand 27 routes in Cliff

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Long/Lat: 14.222630, 50.906470

1.2.7. Breite-Kluft-Turm 18 routes in Cliff

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Long/Lat: 14.224694, 50.906307

1.2.8. Bismarckfels 12 routes in Cliff

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Long/Lat: 14.224374, 50.899524

1.2.9. Zufallsturm 15 routes in Cliff

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Long/Lat: 14.248343, 50.891040

1.2.10. Kipphornwächter 15 routes in Cliff

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Long/Lat: 14.248556, 50.891125

1.2.11. Wand am Kipphorn 17 routes in Cliff

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Long/Lat: 14.248292, 50.891813

1.2.12. Vorderer Spätling 16 routes in Cliff

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Long/Lat: 14.248965, 50.892386

1.2.13. Hinterer Spätling 9 routes in Cliff

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Long/Lat: 14.248973, 50.892285

1.3. Rauschengrund 434 routes in Area

98121341192536202171011221416151718

1 Rauschenspitze, 2 Rauschenkuppe, 3 Westlicher Rauschenturm, 4 Rauschengrundkegel, 5 Östlicher Rauschenturm, 6 Eckzahn, 7 Schützelkopf, 8 Bergkristall, 9 Stülpner, 10 Nachbar, 11 Rauschentorwächter, 12 Doppelturm, 13 Rauschengrundnadel, 14 Klimmerstein, 15 Südwestlicher Wachturm, 16 Nordöstlicher Wachturm, 17 Rauschenstein, 18 Winklerturm, 19 Rauschenkopf, 20 Großer Falknerturm, 21 Kleiner Falknerturm, 22 Pionierturm

Summary:

Long/Lat: 14.228548, 50.903858

1.3.1. Rauschenspitze 19 routes in Cliff

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Long/Lat: 14.225613, 50.904903

1.3.2. Rauschenkuppe 9 routes in Cliff

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Long/Lat: 14.226275, 50.904723

1.3.3. Westlicher Rauschenturm 35 routes in Cliff

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Long/Lat: 14.227192, 50.904346

1.3.4. Rauschengrundkegel 11 routes in Cliff

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Long/Lat: 14.227170, 50.905410

1.3.5. Östlicher Rauschenturm 16 routes in Cliff

Summary:

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Long/Lat: 14.227468, 50.904496

1.3.6. Eckzahn 6 routes in Cliff

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Long/Lat: 14.227470, 50.904344

1.3.7. Schützelkopf 20 routes in Cliff

Summary:

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Long/Lat: 14.227609, 50.903848

1.3.8. Bergkristall 6 routes in Cliff

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Long/Lat: 14.227720, 50.906490

1.3.9. Stülpner 12 routes in Cliff

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Long/Lat: 14.228053, 50.906739

1.3.10. Nachbar 16 routes in Cliff

Summary:

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Long/Lat: 14.227979, 50.903789

1.3.11. Rauschentorwächter 13 routes in Cliff

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Long/Lat: 14.228157, 50.903665

1.3.12. Doppelturm 22 routes in Cliff

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Long/Lat: 14.228580, 50.906410

1.3.13. Rauschengrundnadel 12 routes in Cliff

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Long/Lat: 14.228860, 50.906230

1.3.14. Klimmerstein 25 routes in Cliff

Summary:

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Long/Lat: 14.228856, 50.903451

1.3.15. Südwestlicher Wachturm 13 routes in Cliff

Summary:

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Long/Lat: 14.229159, 50.902600

1.3.16. Nordöstlicher Wachturm 16 routes in Cliff

Summary:

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Long/Lat: 14.229458, 50.902670