A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Table of contents

1. Bergfex 24 routes in Cliff

All Trad

Long/Lat: 14.201957, 50.912938

Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Alter Weg V Trad 25m
2 Faxen VI Trad
3 Fix und Foxi IV Trad
4 Früh übt sich ... VIIIa Trad
5 Für Geübte VIIIc Trad
6 Linker Nischenriß IV Trad
7 Mega Perls (RP)

red point

VIIIc Trad
8 Mittlerer Nischenriß V Trad
9 Nordwand VIIIb Trad
10 Ostkante VIIIb Trad
11 Ostweg IV Trad
12 Rechter Nischenriß V Trad
13 Südwestweg IV Trad
14 Trix und Trax IV Trad
15 Übergangsweg IV Trad
16 Übung macht den Meister (RP)

red point

Xa Trad
17 Variante zum Südwestweg VIIa Trad
18 Vorgeburtstag V Trad
19 Waschbrett VIIc Trad
20 Wäschemangel V Trad
21 Wäschetrockner IV Trad
22 Waschmaschine VIIc Trad
23 Westkante IV Trad
24 Zufallsvariante IV Trad

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
IV Fix und Foxi Trad
Linker Nischenriß Trad
Ostweg Trad
Südwestweg Trad
Trix und Trax Trad
Westkante Trad
Wäschetrockner Trad
Zufallsvariante Trad
Übergangsweg Trad
V Alter Weg Trad 25m
Mittlerer Nischenriß Trad
Rechter Nischenriß Trad
Vorgeburtstag Trad
Wäschemangel Trad
VI Faxen Trad
VIIa Variante zum Südwestweg Trad
VIIc Waschbrett Trad
Waschmaschine Trad
VIIIa Früh übt sich ... Trad
VIIIb Nordwand Trad
Ostkante Trad
VIIIc Für Geübte Trad
Mega Perls (RP) Trad
Xa Übung macht den Meister (RP) Trad