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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
Xb 7 Jahre Pech Trad
2
VIIIa Action direct Trad
3
VIIa Alpha Trad
4
III Alter Ostweg Trad
5
II AlterWeg Trad
6
IXc Attika (RP) Trad

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8
IXb Befehl Trad
9
VIIc Beta (RP) Trad

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10
VIIIc Blitzaktion Trad
12
VIIb Delta Trad
13
IXa Dialog Trad
15

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17

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VIIIc Direkter Ostgrat Trad
20

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22
VIIb Eichenweg Trad
23
Xb Endspurt Trad
25
IV Epsilon Trad
26

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27
IXa Evergreen Trad
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VIIa Falkenvariante Trad
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IV Fischerweg Trad
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VIIa Gamma Trad
33
VIIIa Gamma direkt Trad
34
IXb Geborgte Zeit Trad
35
VIIIa Gerade Variante Trad
36
Xb Große Welle Trad
37
38
VIIIa Herbstweg Trad
39
VIIb Hintertreppe Trad
40
VIIIb Hohe Sonne Trad
41
VIIa Ich habe fertig Trad
42
VIIb Kaminwand Trad
43
VIIIc Katzenjammer Trad
44
VIIc Knirpelwand Trad
45
VIIIa Knirpelwand (oU) Trad

without support

46
47
II Kurzer Kamin Trad
48
IXa Magellan Trad
51
IXa Mondlichtmeile Trad
52
VIIIa Nachlese Trad
53
VIIc Naumannhangel Trad
54
VIIb nende Trad
56
VIIa Neuer Nordweg Trad
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VIIIa Neuer Weg Trad
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VIIIb Neuester Weg Trad
61
VIIIb Nischenwand Trad
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IXc Nordostkante Trad
63
VI Nordostweg Trad
64
VIIc Nordpfeiler Trad
65
VIIIb Nordwand Trad
66
V Nordweg Trad
67
III Nordwestkamin Trad
68
VIIc Nordwestwand Trad
69
VIIc Nordwestweg Trad
70
VIIc Notausstieg Trad
71
Xa Odyssee Trad
72
VIIa Osterweg Trad
73
VIIc Ostgrat Trad
75
VIIIa Ostpfeiler Trad
76
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VIIIa Pfeilerreibung Trad
78
VIIc Pfeilervariante Trad
80
IXa Plattenspieler Trad
81
IXc Posaunenengel Trad
82
II Rägerweg Trad
83
84

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85

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86
III Reußvariante Trad
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V Sandweg Trad
88
III Schartenweg Trad
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90
91
II Schusterweg Trad

FA: Oscar Schuster & P. Müller, 1897

92
VIIIb Schwarze Wand Trad
93
94

without support

95

FA: Martin Seyde & H. Klette, 1904

96
VIIIb Sigma (RP) Trad

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97
VIIb Später Weg Trad
98
XIa Spiegelrand Trad
99
VIIb Steile Rippe Trad
101
102
VIIc Südostwand Trad
103
Xa Südsee Trad
104
VIIc Südwand (RP) Trad

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105
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VIIIc Südwestwand Trad
107
VIIb Terrassenende Trad
108
IV Thielweg Trad
109
VIIb Variante Trad
113
VIIa Verbindung Trad
118
IXc Waschbrett Trad
119
IXa Weg der Jugend Trad
120
IXb Westkante (RP) Trad

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121
122
III Westweg Trad
124
VIIc Winkelwand Trad
125
VIIa Winkelweg Trad
126
IXc Zeitgeist Trad
127
VIIIb Zeitreise Trad
128

red point

129
VIIc Zeta Trad

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