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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
{SX} Xb 7 Jahre Pech Trad
2
{SX} VIIIa Action direct Trad
3
{SX} VIIa Alpha Trad
4
{SX} III Alter Ostweg Trad
5
{SX} II AlterWeg Trad
6
{SX} IXc Attika (RP) Trad

red point

8
{SX} IXb Befehl Trad
9
{SX} VIIc Beta (RP) Trad

red point

10
{SX} VIIIc Blitzaktion Trad
11
{SX} Xc Dampfwalzenballet Trad
12
{SX} VIIb Delta Trad
13
{SX} IXa Dialog Trad
14
{SX} Xa Die Perfekte Welle Trad
15
{SX} VIIIb Direkte Knirpelwand (RP) Trad

red point

16
{SX} IXc Direkte Nordostkante Trad
17
{SX} IXb Direkter Befehl (RP) Trad

red point

18
{SX} VIIIc Direkter Neuer Weg Trad
19
{SX} VIIIc Direkter Ostgrat Trad
20

red point

21
{SX} IXc Direktes Waschbrett Trad
22
{SX} VIIb Eichenweg Trad
23
{SX} Xb Endspurt Trad
24

red point

25
{SX} IV Epsilon Trad
26
{SX} VIIIc EV zur Knirpelwand (RP) Trad

red point

27
{SX} IXa Evergreen Trad
28
{SX} VIIa Falkenvariante Trad
29
{SX} III Fiedlervariante Trad
30
{SX} IV Fischerweg Trad
31
{SX} Xb Frankenjogging Trad
32
{SX} VIIa Gamma Trad
33
{SX} VIIIa Gamma direkt Trad
34
{SX} IXb Geborgte Zeit Trad
35
{SX} VIIIa Gerade Variante Trad
36
{SX} Xb Große Welle Trad
37
{SX} IXb Großer Pfeiler Trad
38
{SX} VIIIa Herbstweg Trad
39
{SX} VIIb Hintertreppe Trad
40
{SX} VIIIb Hohe Sonne Trad
41
{SX} VIIa Ich habe fertig Trad
42
{SX} VIIb Kaminwand Trad
43
{SX} VIIIc Katzenjammer Trad
44
{SX} VIIc Knirpelwand Trad
45
{SX} VIIIa Knirpelwand (oU) Trad

without support

46
{SX} VIIc Kombinierter Weg Trad
47
{SX} II Kurzer Kamin Trad
48
{SX} IXa Magellan Trad
49
{SX} IXc Manische Depressionen Trad
50
{SX} IV Mittlerer Ostweg Trad
51
{SX} IXa Mondlichtmeile Trad
52
{SX} VIIIa Nachlese Trad
53
{SX} VIIc Naumannhangel Trad
54
{SX} VIIb nende Trad
55
56
{SX} VIIa Neuer Nordweg Trad
57
{SX} VIIc Neuer Ostpfeiler Trad
58
{SX} V Neuer Ostweg Trad
59
{SX} VIIIa Neuer Weg Trad
60
{SX} VIIIb Neuester Weg Trad
61
{SX} VIIIb Nischenwand Trad
62
{SX} IXc Nordostkante Trad
63
{SX} VI Nordostweg Trad
64
{SX} VIIc Nordpfeiler Trad
65
{SX} VIIIb Nordwand Trad
66
{SX} V Nordweg Trad
67
{SX} III Nordwestkamin Trad
68
{SX} VIIc Nordwestwand Trad
69
{SX} VIIc Nordwestweg Trad
70
{SX} VIIc Notausstieg Trad
71
{SX} Xa Odyssee Trad
72
{SX} VIIa Osterweg Trad
73
{SX} VIIc Ostgrat Trad
74
{SX} VIIIa Östlicher Pfeilerweg Trad
75
{SX} VIIIa Ostpfeiler Trad
76
{SX} VIIb Ostverschneidung Trad
77
{SX} VIIIa Pfeilerreibung Trad
78
{SX} VIIc Pfeilervariante Trad
79
{SX} IV Pfeilschmidtweg Trad
80
{SX} IXa Plattenspieler Trad
81
{SX} IXc Posaunenengel Trad
82
{SX} II Rägerweg Trad
83
{SX} IV Rechter Winkel Trad
84
{SX} VIIIc Regenbogenkrieger (RP) Trad

red point

85
{SX} IXb Reizüberflutung (RP) Trad

red point

86
{SX} III Reußvariante Trad
87
{SX} V Sandweg Trad
88
{SX} III Schartenweg Trad
89
{SX} V Schneisenweg Trad
90
{SX} VIIb Schräge Variante Trad
91
{SX} II Schusterweg Trad

FA: Oscar Schuster & P. Müller, 1897

92
{SX} VIIIb Schwarze Wand Trad
93
{SX} IXa Schwarzer Humor Trad
94
{SX} IXb Schwarzer Humor (oU) Trad

without support

95
{SX} II Seydesche Variante Mixed 1

FA: Martin Seyde & H. Klette, 1904

96
{SX} VIIIb Sigma (RP) Trad

red point

97
{SX} VIIb Später Weg Trad
98
{SX} XIa Spiegelrand Trad
99
{SX} VIIb Steile Rippe Trad
100
{SX} V Steinbachvariante Trad
101
{SX} V Steinbachweg Trad
102
{SX} VIIc Südostwand Trad
103
{SX} Xa Südsee Trad
104
{SX} VIIc Südwand (RP) Trad

red point

105
{SX} IXa Südwestpfeiler Trad
106
{SX} VIIIc Südwestwand Trad
107
{SX} VIIb Terrassenende Trad
108
{SX} IV Thielweg Trad
109
{SX} VIIb Variante Trad
110
{SX} VIIIb Variante zum Herbstweg Trad
111
113
{SX} VIIa Verbindung Trad
114
{SX} II Vergessener Winkel Trad
116
118
{SX} IXc Waschbrett Trad
119
{SX} IXa Weg der Jugend Trad
120
{SX} IXb Westkante (RP) Trad

red point

121
{SX} VIIb Westverschneidung Trad
122
{SX} III Westweg Trad
123
124
{SX} VIIc Winkelwand Trad
125
{SX} VIIa Winkelweg Trad
126
{SX} IXc Zeitgeist Trad
127
{SX} VIIIb Zeitreise Trad
128

red point

129
{SX} VIIc Zeta Trad
130
{SX} IXc Zwischen den Meistern Trad