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Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 7 Jahre Pech
Xb
Trad
2 Action direct
VIIIa
Trad
3 Alpha
VIIa
Trad
4 Alter Ostweg
III
Trad
5 AlterWeg
II
Trad
6 Attika (RP)

red point

IXc
Trad
7 AV zur Westverschneidung
VIIb
Trad
8 Befehl
IXb
Trad
9 Beta (RP)

red point

VIIc
Trad
10 Blitzaktion
VIIIc
Trad
11 Dampfwalzenballet
Xc
Trad
12 Delta
VIIb
Trad
13 Dialog
IXa
Trad
14 Die Perfekte Welle
Xa
Trad
15 Direkte Knirpelwand (RP)

red point

VIIIb
Trad
16 Direkte Nordostkante
IXc
Trad
17 Direkter Befehl (RP)

red point

IXb
Trad
18 Direkter Neuer Weg
VIIIc
Trad
19 Direkter Ostgrat
VIIIc
Trad
20 Direkter Weg der Jugend (RP)

red point

IXa
Trad
21 Direktes Waschbrett
IXc
Trad
22 Eichenweg
VIIb
Trad
23 Endspurt
Xb
Trad
24 Endspurt (zum Frankenjogging) (RP)

red point

Xb
Trad
25 Epsilon
IV
Trad
26 EV zur Knirpelwand (RP)

red point

VIIIc
Trad
27 Evergreen
IXa
Trad
28 Falkenvariante
VIIa
Trad
29 Fiedlervariante
III
Trad
30 Fischerweg
IV
Trad
31 Frankenjogging
Xb
Trad
32 Gamma
VIIa
Trad
33 Gamma direkt
VIIIa
Trad
34 Geborgte Zeit
IXb
Trad
35 Gerade Variante
VIIIa
Trad
36 Große Welle
Xb
Trad
37 Großer Pfeiler
IXb
Trad
38 Herbstweg
VIIIa
Trad
39 Hintertreppe
VIIb
Trad
40 Hohe Sonne
VIIIb
Trad
41 Ich habe fertig
VIIa
Trad
42 Kaminwand
VIIb
Trad
43 Katzenjammer
VIIIc
Trad
44 Knirpelwand
VIIc
Trad
45 Knirpelwand (oU)

without support

VIIIa
Trad
46 Kombinierter Weg
VIIc
Trad
47 Kurzer Kamin
II
Trad
48 Magellan
IXa
Trad
49 Manische Depressionen
IXc
Trad
50 Mittlerer Ostweg
IV
Trad
51 Mondlichtmeile
IXa
Trad
52 Nachlese
VIIIa
Trad
53 Naumannhangel
VIIc
Trad
54 nende
VIIb
Trad
55 Neue Westverschneidung
IXc
Trad
56 Neuer Nordweg
VIIa
Trad
57 Neuer Ostpfeiler
VIIc
Trad
58 Neuer Ostweg
V
Trad
59 Neuer Weg
VIIIa
Trad
60 Neuester Weg
VIIIb
Trad
61 Nischenwand
VIIIb
Trad
62 Nordostkante
IXc
Trad
63 Nordostweg
VI
Trad
64 Nordpfeiler
VIIc
Trad
65 Nordwand
VIIIb
Trad
66 Nordweg
V
Trad
67 Nordwestkamin
III
Trad
68 Nordwestwand
VIIc
Trad
69 Nordwestweg
VIIc
Trad
70 Notausstieg
VIIc
Trad
71 Odyssee
Xa
Trad
72 Osterweg
VIIa
Trad
73 Ostgrat
VIIc
Trad
74 Östlicher Pfeilerweg
VIIIa
Trad
75 Ostpfeiler
VIIIa
Trad
76 Ostverschneidung
VIIb
Trad
77 Pfeilerreibung
VIIIa
Trad
78 Pfeilervariante
VIIc
Trad
79 Pfeilschmidtweg
IV
Trad
80 Plattenspieler
IXa
Trad
81 Posaunenengel
IXc
Trad
82 Rägerweg
II
Trad
83 Rechter Winkel
IV
Trad
84 Regenbogenkrieger (RP)

red point

VIIIc
Trad
85 Reizüberflutung (RP)

red point

IXb
Trad
86 Reußvariante
III
Trad
87 Sandweg
V
Trad
88 Schartenweg
III
Trad
89 Schneisenweg
V
Trad
90 Schräge Variante
VIIb
Trad
91 Schusterweg
II
Trad
92 Schwarze Wand
VIIIb
Trad
93 Schwarzer Humor
IXa
Trad
94 Schwarzer Humor (oU)

without support

IXb
Trad
95 Seydesche Variante
II
Trad
96 Sigma (RP)

red point

VIIIb
Trad
97 Später Weg
VIIb
Trad
98 Spiegelrand
XIa
Trad
99 Steile Rippe
VIIb
Trad
100 Steinbachvariante
V
Trad
101 Steinbachweg
V
Trad
102 Südostwand
VIIc
Trad
103 Südsee
Xa
Trad
104 Südwand (RP)

red point

VIIc
Trad
105 Südwestpfeiler
IXa
Trad
106 Südwestwand
VIIIc
Trad
107 Terrassenende
VIIb
Trad
108 Thielweg
IV
Trad
109 Variante
VIIb
Trad
110 Variante zum Herbstweg
VIIIb
Trad
111 Variante zur Nordwestwand
VIIIb
Trad
112 Variante zur Ostverschneidung
VIIIb
Trad
113 Verbindung
VIIa
Trad
114 Vergessener Winkel
II
Trad
115 Wahre Wand zwischen den Kaminen
VIIIc
Trad
116 Wand zwischen den Kaminen
VIIIb
Trad
117 Was nicht passt, wird passend gemacht (RP)

red point

IXb
Trad
118 Waschbrett
IXc
Trad
119 Weg der Jugend
IXa
Trad
120 Westkante (RP)

red point

IXb
Trad
121 Westverschneidung
VIIb
Trad
122 Westweg
III
Trad
123 Winkelverschneidung
V
Trad
124 Winkelwand
VIIc
Trad
125 Winkelweg
VIIa
Trad
126 Zeitgeist
IXc
Trad
127 Zeitreise
VIIIb
Trad
128 Zerbrochener Spiegel (RP)

red point

Xa
Trad
129 Zeta
VIIc
Trad
130 Zwischen den Meistern
IXc
Trad