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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
SX Xb 7 Jahre Pech Trad
2
SX VIIIa Action direct Trad
3
SX VIIa Alpha Trad
4
SX III Alter Ostweg Trad
5
SX II AlterWeg Trad
6
SX IXc Attika (RP) Trad

red point

8
SX IXb Befehl Trad
9
SX VIIc Beta (RP) Trad

red point

10
SX VIIIc Blitzaktion Trad
11
SX Xc Dampfwalzenballet Trad
12
SX VIIb Delta Trad
13
SX IXa Dialog Trad
14
15

red point

16
17

red point

18
SX VIIIc Direkter Neuer Weg Trad
19
SX VIIIc Direkter Ostgrat Trad
20

red point

21
22
SX VIIb Eichenweg Trad
23
SX Xb Endspurt Trad
24

red point

25
SX IV Epsilon Trad
26

red point

27
SX IXa Evergreen Trad
28
SX VIIa Falkenvariante Trad
29
SX III Fiedlervariante Trad
30
SX IV Fischerweg Trad
31
SX Xb Frankenjogging Trad
32
SX VIIa Gamma Trad
33
SX VIIIa Gamma direkt Trad
34
SX IXb Geborgte Zeit Trad
35
SX VIIIa Gerade Variante Trad
36
SX Xb Große Welle Trad
37
SX IXb Großer Pfeiler Trad
38
SX VIIIa Herbstweg Trad
39
SX VIIb Hintertreppe Trad
40
SX VIIIb Hohe Sonne Trad
41
SX VIIa Ich habe fertig Trad
42
SX VIIb Kaminwand Trad
43
SX VIIIc Katzenjammer Trad
44
SX VIIc Knirpelwand Trad
45
SX VIIIa Knirpelwand (oU) Trad

without support

46
SX VIIc Kombinierter Weg Trad
47
SX II Kurzer Kamin Trad
48
SX IXa Magellan Trad
50
SX IV Mittlerer Ostweg Trad
51
SX IXa Mondlichtmeile Trad
52
SX VIIIa Nachlese Trad
53
SX VIIc Naumannhangel Trad
54
SX VIIb nende Trad
56
SX VIIa Neuer Nordweg Trad
57
SX VIIc Neuer Ostpfeiler Trad
58
SX V Neuer Ostweg Trad
59
SX VIIIa Neuer Weg Trad
60
SX VIIIb Neuester Weg Trad
61
SX VIIIb Nischenwand Trad
62
SX IXc Nordostkante Trad
63
SX VI Nordostweg Trad
64
SX VIIc Nordpfeiler Trad
65
SX VIIIb Nordwand Trad
66
SX V Nordweg Trad
67
SX III Nordwestkamin Trad
68
SX VIIc Nordwestwand Trad
69
SX VIIc Nordwestweg Trad
70
SX VIIc Notausstieg Trad
71
SX Xa Odyssee Trad
72
SX VIIa Osterweg Trad
73
SX VIIc Ostgrat Trad
74
SX VIIIa Östlicher Pfeilerweg Trad
75
SX VIIIa Ostpfeiler Trad
76
SX VIIb Ostverschneidung Trad
77
SX VIIIa Pfeilerreibung Trad
78
SX VIIc Pfeilervariante Trad
79
SX IV Pfeilschmidtweg Trad
80
SX IXa Plattenspieler Trad
81
SX IXc Posaunenengel Trad
82
SX II Rägerweg Trad
83
SX IV Rechter Winkel Trad
84

red point

85

red point

86
SX III Reußvariante Trad
87
SX V Sandweg Trad
88
SX III Schartenweg Trad
89
SX V Schneisenweg Trad
90
SX VIIb Schräge Variante Trad
91
SX II Schusterweg Trad
92
SX VIIIb Schwarze Wand Trad
93
SX IXa Schwarzer Humor Trad
94

without support

95
96
SX VIIIb Sigma (RP) Trad

red point

97
SX VIIb Später Weg Trad
98
SX XIa Spiegelrand Trad
99
SX VIIb Steile Rippe Trad
100
101
SX V Steinbachweg Trad
102
SX VIIc Südostwand Trad
103
SX Xa Südsee Trad
104
SX VIIc Südwand (RP) Trad

red point

105
SX IXa Südwestpfeiler Trad
106
SX VIIIc Südwestwand Trad
107
SX VIIb Terrassenende Trad
108
SX IV Thielweg Trad
109
SX VIIb Variante Trad
110
111
113
SX VIIa Verbindung Trad
114
116
118
SX IXc Waschbrett Trad
119
SX IXa Weg der Jugend Trad
120
SX IXb Westkante (RP) Trad

red point

121
SX VIIb Westverschneidung Trad
122
SX III Westweg Trad
123
124
SX VIIc Winkelwand Trad
125
SX VIIa Winkelweg Trad
126
SX IXc Zeitgeist Trad
127
SX VIIIb Zeitreise Trad
128

red point

129
SX VIIc Zeta Trad
130