A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

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Table of contents

1. Hoher Torstein 130 routes in Cliff

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
All Trad

Long/Lat: 14.201083, 50.913860

Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 7 Jahre Pech {SX} Xb Trad
2 Action direct {SX} VIIIa Trad
3 Alpha {SX} VIIa Trad
4 Alter Ostweg {SX} III Trad
5 AlterWeg {SX} II Trad
6 Attika (RP)

red point

{SX} IXc Trad
7 AV zur Westverschneidung {SX} VIIb Trad
8 Befehl {SX} IXb Trad
9 Beta (RP)

red point

{SX} VIIc Trad
10 Blitzaktion {SX} VIIIc Trad
11 Dampfwalzenballet {SX} Xc Trad
12 Delta {SX} VIIb Trad
13 Dialog {SX} IXa Trad
14 Die Perfekte Welle {SX} Xa Trad
15 Direkte Knirpelwand (RP)

red point

{SX} VIIIb Trad
16 Direkte Nordostkante {SX} IXc Trad
17 Direkter Befehl (RP)

red point

{SX} IXb Trad
18 Direkter Neuer Weg {SX} VIIIc Trad
19 Direkter Ostgrat {SX} VIIIc Trad
20 Direkter Weg der Jugend (RP)

red point

{SX} IXa Trad
21 Direktes Waschbrett {SX} IXc Trad
22 Eichenweg {SX} VIIb Trad
23 Endspurt {SX} Xb Trad
24 Endspurt (zum Frankenjogging) (RP)

red point

{SX} Xb Trad
25 Epsilon {SX} IV Trad
26 EV zur Knirpelwand (RP)

red point

{SX} VIIIc Trad
27 Evergreen {SX} IXa Trad
28 Falkenvariante {SX} VIIa Trad
29 Fiedlervariante {SX} III Trad
30 Fischerweg {SX} IV Trad
31 Frankenjogging {SX} Xb Trad
32 Gamma {SX} VIIa Trad
33 Gamma direkt {SX} VIIIa Trad
34 Geborgte Zeit {SX} IXb Trad
35 Gerade Variante {SX} VIIIa Trad
36 Große Welle {SX} Xb Trad
37 Großer Pfeiler {SX} IXb Trad
38 Herbstweg {SX} VIIIa Trad
39 Hintertreppe {SX} VIIb Trad
40 Hohe Sonne {SX} VIIIb Trad
41 Ich habe fertig {SX} VIIa Trad
42 Kaminwand {SX} VIIb Trad
43 Katzenjammer {SX} VIIIc Trad
44 Knirpelwand {SX} VIIc Trad
45 Knirpelwand (oU)

without support

{SX} VIIIa Trad
46 Kombinierter Weg {SX} VIIc Trad
47 Kurzer Kamin {SX} II Trad
48 Magellan {SX} IXa Trad
49 Manische Depressionen {SX} IXc Trad
50 Mittlerer Ostweg {SX} IV Trad
51 Mondlichtmeile {SX} IXa Trad
52 Nachlese {SX} VIIIa Trad
53 Naumannhangel {SX} VIIc Trad
54 nende {SX} VIIb Trad
55 Neue Westverschneidung {SX} IXc Trad
56 Neuer Nordweg {SX} VIIa Trad
57 Neuer Ostpfeiler {SX} VIIc Trad
58 Neuer Ostweg {SX} V Trad
59 Neuer Weg {SX} VIIIa Trad
60 Neuester Weg {SX} VIIIb Trad
61 Nischenwand {SX} VIIIb Trad
62 Nordostkante {SX} IXc Trad
63 Nordostweg {SX} VI Trad
64 Nordpfeiler {SX} VIIc Trad
65 Nordwand {SX} VIIIb Trad
66 Nordweg {SX} V Trad
67 Nordwestkamin {SX} III Trad
68 Nordwestwand {SX} VIIc Trad
69 Nordwestweg {SX} VIIc Trad
70 Notausstieg {SX} VIIc Trad
71 Odyssee {SX} Xa Trad
72 Osterweg {SX} VIIa Trad
73 Ostgrat {SX} VIIc Trad
74 Östlicher Pfeilerweg {SX} VIIIa Trad
75 Ostpfeiler {SX} VIIIa Trad
76 Ostverschneidung {SX} VIIb Trad
77 Pfeilerreibung {SX} VIIIa Trad
78 Pfeilervariante {SX} VIIc Trad
79 Pfeilschmidtweg {SX} IV Trad
80 Plattenspieler {SX} IXa Trad
81 Posaunenengel {SX} IXc Trad
82 Rägerweg {SX} II Trad
83 Rechter Winkel {SX} IV Trad
84 Regenbogenkrieger (RP)

red point

{SX} VIIIc Trad
85 Reizüberflutung (RP)

red point

{SX} IXb Trad
86 Reußvariante {SX} III Trad
87 Sandweg {SX} V Trad
88 Schartenweg {SX} III Trad
89 Schneisenweg {SX} V Trad
90 Schräge Variante {SX} VIIb Trad
91 Schusterweg {SX} II Trad
92 Schwarze Wand {SX} VIIIb Trad
93 Schwarzer Humor {SX} IXa Trad
94 Schwarzer Humor (oU)

without support

{SX} IXb Trad
95 Seydesche Variante {SX} II Trad
96 Sigma (RP)

red point

{SX} VIIIb Trad
97 Später Weg {SX} VIIb Trad
98 Spiegelrand {SX} XIa Trad
99 Steile Rippe {SX} VIIb Trad
100 Steinbachvariante {SX} V Trad
101 Steinbachweg {SX} V Trad
102 Südostwand {SX} VIIc Trad
103 Südsee {SX} Xa Trad
104 Südwand (RP)

red point

{SX} VIIc Trad
105 Südwestpfeiler {SX} IXa Trad
106 Südwestwand {SX} VIIIc Trad
107 Terrassenende {SX} VIIb Trad
108 Thielweg {SX} IV Trad
109 Variante {SX} VIIb Trad
110 Variante zum Herbstweg {SX} VIIIb Trad
111 Variante zur Nordwestwand {SX} VIIIb Trad
112 Variante zur Ostverschneidung {SX} VIIIb Trad
113 Verbindung {SX} VIIa Trad
114 Vergessener Winkel {SX} II Trad
115 Wahre Wand zwischen den Kaminen {SX} VIIIc Trad
116 Wand zwischen den Kaminen {SX} VIIIb Trad
117 Was nicht passt, wird passend gemacht (RP)

red point

{SX} IXb Trad
118 Waschbrett {SX} IXc Trad
119 Weg der Jugend {SX} IXa Trad
120 Westkante (RP)

red point

{SX} IXb Trad
121 Westverschneidung {SX} VIIb Trad
122 Westweg {SX} III Trad
123 Winkelverschneidung {SX} V Trad
124 Winkelwand {SX} VIIc Trad
125 Winkelweg {SX} VIIa Trad
126 Zeitgeist {SX} IXc Trad
127 Zeitreise {SX} VIIIb Trad
128 Zerbrochener Spiegel (RP)

red point

{SX} Xa Trad
129 Zeta {SX} VIIc Trad
130 Zwischen den Meistern {SX} IXc Trad

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
II AlterWeg Trad
Kurzer Kamin Trad
Rägerweg Trad
Schusterweg Trad
Seydesche Variante Trad
Vergessener Winkel Trad
III Alter Ostweg Trad
Fiedlervariante Trad
Nordwestkamin Trad
Reußvariante Trad
Schartenweg Trad
Westweg Trad
IV Epsilon Trad
Fischerweg Trad
Mittlerer Ostweg Trad
Pfeilschmidtweg Trad
Rechter Winkel Trad
Thielweg Trad
V Neuer Ostweg Trad
Nordweg Trad
Sandweg Trad
Schneisenweg Trad
Steinbachvariante Trad
Steinbachweg Trad
Winkelverschneidung Trad
VI Nordostweg Trad
VIIa Alpha Trad
Falkenvariante Trad
Gamma Trad
Ich habe fertig Trad
Neuer Nordweg Trad
Osterweg Trad
Verbindung Trad
Winkelweg Trad
VIIb AV zur Westverschneidung Trad
Delta Trad
Eichenweg Trad
Hintertreppe Trad
Kaminwand Trad
Ostverschneidung Trad
Schräge Variante Trad
Später Weg Trad
Steile Rippe Trad
Terrassenende Trad
Variante Trad
Westverschneidung Trad
nende Trad
VIIc Beta (RP) Trad
Knirpelwand Trad
Kombinierter Weg Trad
Naumannhangel Trad
Neuer Ostpfeiler Trad
Nordpfeiler Trad
Nordwestwand Trad
Nordwestweg Trad
Notausstieg Trad
Ostgrat Trad
Pfeilervariante Trad
Südostwand Trad
Südwand (RP) Trad
Winkelwand Trad
Zeta Trad
VIIIa Action direct Trad
Gamma direkt Trad
Gerade Variante Trad
Herbstweg Trad
Knirpelwand (oU) Trad
Nachlese Trad
Neuer Weg Trad
Ostpfeiler Trad
Pfeilerreibung Trad
Östlicher Pfeilerweg Trad
VIIIb Direkte Knirpelwand (RP) Trad
Hohe Sonne Trad
Neuester Weg Trad
Nischenwand Trad
Nordwand Trad
Schwarze Wand Trad
Sigma (RP) Trad
Variante zum Herbstweg Trad
Variante zur Nordwestwand Trad
Variante zur Ostverschneidung Trad
Wand zwischen den Kaminen Trad
Zeitreise Trad
VIIIc Blitzaktion Trad
Direkter Neuer Weg Trad
Direkter Ostgrat Trad
EV zur Knirpelwand (RP) Trad
Katzenjammer Trad
Regenbogenkrieger (RP) Trad
Südwestwand Trad
Wahre Wand zwischen den Kaminen Trad
IXa Dialog Trad
Direkter Weg der Jugend (RP) Trad
Evergreen Trad
Magellan Trad
Mondlichtmeile Trad
Plattenspieler Trad
Schwarzer Humor Trad
Südwestpfeiler Trad
Weg der Jugend Trad
IXb Befehl Trad
Direkter Befehl (RP) Trad
Geborgte Zeit Trad
Großer Pfeiler Trad
Reizüberflutung (RP) Trad
Schwarzer Humor (oU) Trad
Was nicht passt, wird passend gemacht (RP) Trad
Westkante (RP) Trad
IXc Attika (RP) Trad
Direkte Nordostkante Trad
Direktes Waschbrett Trad
Manische Depressionen Trad
Neue Westverschneidung Trad
Nordostkante Trad
Posaunenengel Trad
Waschbrett Trad
Zeitgeist Trad
Zwischen den Meistern Trad
Xa Die Perfekte Welle Trad
Odyssee Trad
Südsee Trad
Zerbrochener Spiegel (RP) Trad
Xb 7 Jahre Pech Trad
Endspurt Trad
Endspurt (zum Frankenjogging) (RP) Trad
Frankenjogging Trad
Große Welle Trad
Xc Dampfwalzenballet Trad
XIa Spiegelrand Trad