A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.
Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.
You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.
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Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Campbell Gome Mag Eng Joshua Tischer DDjensl
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1. Hüttenwart 13 in Cliff
- 2. Index by grade
1. Hüttenwart 13 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 50.915986, 14.184375
- Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
- No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake. For climbability an extra model was developed.. CHECK IT at unclear conditions.
- No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
- no chalk, no pof
- Sign the summit register.
- Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
- Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
- Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
access issues
Das Klettern ist in der Sächsischen Schweiz nur nach den "Sächsischen Kletterregeln" gestattet.
Dementsprechend darf nur an genehmigten Felsen geklettert werden. An allen anderen Felsformationen besteht Kletterverbot.
Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at DAV Sachsen or current list of climbing bans / aktuelle Sperrungsliste.
ethic
You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Alter Weg
Rechts der Talseite linkshaltend über Blöcke und Spalten zu Hochscharte. Rechts absteigen und Rinne zG. FA: Peter Klötzer, S. Kühnel, G. Caro & K. Tischer, 1960 | III | ||||
2 |
Alter Weg Untere Variante
In Nordost-Scharte den linken oder rechten Riss zur Hochscharte. FA: Klaus Freimann, 1963 | III | ||||
3 |
Alter Weg Obere Variante
Von der Hochscharte Wand zu Band. Nach rechts und Kante links vom "Alten Weg" zG. FA: Günter Teich, 1964 | VIIa | ||||
4 |
Der 290ste
Vom Band "Alter Weg Obere Variante" Wand gerade (Birke) zG. FA: Veit Herzog, U. Koritz, J. Lützner & U. Fretter, 3 Oct 2015 | VIIa | ||||
5 |
Südweg
Rechts der Südkante Kamin einige Meter hoch und links Kante zG. FA: Günter Teich & G. Bauer, 1965 | IV | ||||
6 |
Promenade
2m rechts der Westkante linksansteigend zu R. Kante zu Band (2.R). Wandstufe zu Band, auf diesem links queren zG. FA: Manfred Vogel & C. Vogel, 8 Aug 2018 | VIIa | 2 | |||
7 |
Begrenzte Heiterkeit
Links der Westkante Wand mit kurzer Rippe ("Radeberger Weg" und "Promenade" kreuzend, 4R) zu Hangelband. Links queren und bewachsene Schrofen zG. FA: Joachim Friedrich, 15 Aug 2019 | VIIIc | 4 | |||
8 |
Radeberger Weg
Von Block an Westkante 3m hoch zu Band. Weit links queren durch die Talseite zu Absatz. Rissfolge und Wand zG. FA: Jürgen Rotzsche & P. Kohbach, 1967 | VIIc | ||||
9 |
Radeberger Weg Variante
In der Mitte N-Wand Rippe zu R.. Re. um Kante quer zur Rissfolge. | VI | 1 | |||
10 |
Stiefelkante
(Unterstützt) NO-Kante zu R. (Unterstützt) zu gr. Absatz, Kante z.G. with support VI | VIIa | 1 | |||
11 |
Herbstweg
Von NO-Kamin ca. 8m hochspr. zu Band. Re. queren zu gr. Absatz, Kante z.G. | VI | ||||
12 |
Milder Winter
Spreize gerade weiter (R) u. Wand zur Kante. | VIIa | 1 | |||
13 |
Bergsprung
Vom M. abst. zu Band. Spruch zu kl. Band re. zu AW.. Diesen z.G. | I 4 |
2. Index by grade
Grade | Stars | Name | Style | Pop | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
I/4 | Bergsprung | ||||
III | Alter Weg | ||||
Alter Weg Untere Variante | |||||
IV | Südweg | ||||
VI | Herbstweg | ||||
Radeberger Weg Variante | 1 | ||||
VIIa | Alter Weg Obere Variante | ||||
Der 290ste | |||||
Milder Winter | 1 | ||||
Promenade | 2 | ||||
Stiefelkante | 1 | ||||
VIIc | Radeberger Weg | ||||
VIIIc | Begrenzte Heiterkeit | 4 |