A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.


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This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings.

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Table of contents

1. Jungfer 16 routes in Cliff

All Trad

Long/Lat: 14.206790, 50.910862

Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 1099 VIIc Trad
2 Alter Weg VIIa Trad
3 Dietrichweg VIIa Trad
4 Direkte Westkante VIIIc Trad
5 Gerade Variante zur Strubichrinne VIIc Trad
6 Landesgartenschau VIIa Trad
7 Lange Ostkante VIIc Trad
8 Neuer Nordwestweg VIIc Trad
9 Nordwestweg VIIc Trad
10 Ostkante VIIc Trad
11 Sanftes Erräten VIIIb Trad
12 Strubichrinne VIIc Trad
13 Strubichrinne direkt VIIc Trad
14 Südostriß VIIa Trad
15 Südostwand VIIIa Trad
16 Westkante VIIc Trad

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
VIIa Alter Weg Trad
Dietrichweg Trad
Landesgartenschau Trad
Südostriß Trad
VIIc 1099 Trad
Gerade Variante zur Strubichrinne Trad
Lange Ostkante Trad
Neuer Nordwestweg Trad
Nordwestweg Trad
Ostkante Trad
Strubichrinne Trad
Strubichrinne direkt Trad
Westkante Trad
VIIIa Südostwand Trad
VIIIb Sanftes Erräten Trad
VIIIc Direkte Westkante Trad