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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
SX VIIb Abendweg Trad
2
SX VIIIb Abendweg (oU) Trad

without support

3
SX VIIIa DE zum Krämerriß Trad
4
SX IXa Direkte Westwand Trad
5
SX VIIIa Direkter Krämerriß Trad
6
SX IV Genießerspalte Trad
7
SX VIIb Herbstlandschaft Trad
8
SX VIIc Krämerriß Trad
9
SX IXa Kurvenlineal (RP) Trad

red point

10
SX IXa Langer Laban Trad
11
SX IXa Lineal Trad
12
SX VIIIc Linkskurve Trad
13
SX IXa Neue Linie (RP) Trad

red point

14
SX VIIIa Nordostwand Trad
15
SX III Nordostweg Trad
16
SX VIIIa Nordwand Trad
17
SX VIIIc Nordwand (oU) Trad

without support

18
SX IV Nordweg Trad
19
SX IXa Nordwestkante Trad
20
SX IXa Route 10 Trad
21
SX IXa Route Zehn (RP) Trad

red point

22
SX IV Südostweg Trad
25
SX VIIIb Westwand Trad
27
SX IXa Zwischenspiel (RP) Trad

red point