A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Table of contents

1. Meurerturm 27 routes in Cliff

All Trad

Long/Lat: 14.200491, 50.909871

Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Abendweg VIIbTrad
2 Abendweg (oU)

without support

3 DE zum Krämerriß VIIIaTrad
4 Direkte Westwand IXaTrad
5 Direkter Krämerriß VIIIaTrad
6 Genießerspalte IVTrad
7 Herbstlandschaft VIIbTrad
8 Krämerriß VIIcTrad
9 Kurvenlineal (RP)

red point

10 Langer Laban IXaTrad
11 Lineal IXaTrad
12 Linkskurve VIIIcTrad
13 Neue Linie (RP)

red point

14 Nordostwand VIIIaTrad
15 Nordostweg IIITrad
16 Nordwand VIIIaTrad
17 Nordwand (oU)

without support

18 Nordweg IVTrad
19 Nordwestkante IXaTrad
20 Route 10 IXaTrad
21 Route Zehn (RP)

red point

22 Südostweg IVTrad
23 Variante zum Nordostweg IIITrad
24 Variante zum Nordweg IVTrad
25 Westwand VIIIbTrad
26 Westwand Ausstiegsvariante VIIIcTrad
27 Zwischenspiel (RP)

red point


2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
III Nordostweg Trad
Variante zum Nordostweg Trad
IV Genießerspalte Trad
Nordweg Trad
Südostweg Trad
Variante zum Nordweg Trad
VIIb Abendweg Trad
Herbstlandschaft Trad
VIIc Krämerriß Trad
VIIIa DE zum Krämerriß Trad
Direkter Krämerriß Trad
Nordostwand Trad
Nordwand Trad
VIIIb Abendweg (oU) Trad
Westwand Trad
VIIIc Linkskurve Trad
Nordwand (oU) Trad
Westwand Ausstiegsvariante Trad
IXa Direkte Westwand Trad
Kurvenlineal (RP) Trad
Langer Laban Trad
Lineal Trad
Neue Linie (RP) Trad
Nordwestkante Trad
Route 10 Trad
Route Zehn (RP) Trad
Zwischenspiel (RP) Trad