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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
SX VIIa Alles wird besser Trad
2
SX I Alter Weg Trad
3
SX VIIb Auf Sand gebaut Trad
4
SX VIIc Bellevue Trad
5
SX VIIb Belvedere Trad
6
SX IV Birkenriß Trad
7
SX V Brüchige Rippe Trad
9
SX VIIa direkter Birkenriß Trad
10
SX VIIa Direkter Osterweg Trad
11
SX VIIIb Edelritt Trad
12
SX II Eisenklammerweg Trad
13
SX IXb Fluoreszenz Trad
14
SX VIIa Frühlingswetter Trad
15
SX Xa Gangbang (RP) Trad

red point

16
SX VIIb Geländer Trad
17
SX II Gemütlicher Weg Trad
18
SX II Gemütsbummel Trad
19
SX VIIc Geschenk Trad
20
SX Xa Gesicht Trad
21
SX VIIb Glocke Trad
22
SX IXb Gotischer Bogen Trad
23
SX III Heimkehrer Trad
24
SX IXc Heiße Nummer Trad
25
SX VIIc Hohe Rippe Trad
26
SX Xa King-Kong Trad
27
SX VIIb Lichtblick Trad
28
SX VIIIc Luftiger Pfeiler Trad
29
SX V Märzweg Trad
30
SX VIIa Mausifalle Trad
31
SX VIIIa Meßlatte Trad
32
SX VIIa Mittelweg Trad
33
SX IXa Negerfuß Trad
34
SX VIIa Neujahrsriß Trad
35
SX V Nischenrippe Trad
36
SX IXc Nonplusultra (RP) Trad

red point

38
SX VIIc Nordweg Trad
39
SX VIIa Osterweg Trad
40
SX V Ostriß Trad
41
SX VIIb Ostverschneidung Trad
42
SX IV Ostweg Trad
43
SX Xa Parabelast Trad
44
SX VIIa Pfingstweg Trad
45
SX IXb Phantasie Trad
46
SX VIIIb Pinne Trad
47
SX Xb Poppsofa (RP) Trad

red point

48
SX IV Rampenkamin Trad
49
SX II Rechtsweg Trad
50
SX IXa Regenhangel Trad
51
SX VIIIc Reibungsvariante Trad
52
SX Xa Ringparabel Trad
53
SX IXc Saubere Arbeit Trad
54
SX Xb Saubermann (RP) Trad

red point

55
SX VIIc Schlanker Pfeiler Trad
56
SX VIIb Schluchtpfeiler Trad
57
SX VIIb Schluchtwand Trad
58
SX II Schluchtweg Trad
59
SX VIIc Schrammtorkante Trad
60
SX VIIb Schrammtorriß Trad
61
SX IXa Schwarze Hand Trad
62
SX IXb Schwarzer Humor Trad
63
SX IXc Sehnsucht (RP) Trad

red point

64
SX IXa Sesam Trad
65
SX VIIIc Sonnenwendpfeiler Trad
67
SX III Südostweg Trad
68
SX IV Südrinne Trad
69
SX III Südweg Trad
70
SX VIIIc Südwestplatte Trad
71
72
SX IXc Terrassenfieber Trad
73
SX VIIa Torsten Trad
74
SX VIIIa Übler Streich Trad
75
SX V Unbekannter Weg Trad
76
SX VIIIb Unterm Pantoffel Trad
79
SX IXb Vereinfachter nweg Trad
80
SX III Vergessener Kamin Trad
81
SX VIIb VIIb Trad
82
SX IXb Westpfeiler (RP) Trad

red point

83
SX VIIb Westriß Trad
84
SX VIIa Westverschneidung Trad
85
SX V Wind im Gesicht Trad
86
SX VI Wind in der Hose Trad
87
SX VIIa Windschatten Trad
88
SX V Winkelzug Trad
89
SX IXb Zauberwand Trad
90
SX Xa Zauberwand (oU) Trad

without support