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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
{SX} VIIa Alles wird besser Trad
2
{SX} I Alter Weg Trad
3
{SX} VIIb Auf Sand gebaut Trad
4
{SX} VIIc Bellevue Trad
5
{SX} VIIb Belvedere Trad
6
{SX} IV Birkenriß Trad
7
{SX} V Brüchige Rippe Trad
9
{SX} VIIa direkter Birkenriß Trad
10
{SX} VIIa Direkter Osterweg Trad
11
{SX} VIIIb Edelritt Trad
12
{SX} II Eisenklammerweg Trad
13
{SX} IXb Fluoreszenz Trad
14
{SX} VIIa Frühlingswetter Trad
15
{SX} Xa Gangbang (RP) Trad

red point

16
{SX} VIIb Geländer Trad
17
{SX} II Gemütlicher Weg Trad
18
{SX} II Gemütsbummel Trad
19
{SX} VIIc Geschenk Trad
20
{SX} Xa Gesicht Trad
21
{SX} VIIb Glocke Trad
22
{SX} IXb Gotischer Bogen Trad
23
{SX} III Heimkehrer Trad
24
{SX} IXc Heiße Nummer Trad
25
{SX} VIIc Hohe Rippe Trad
26
{SX} Xa King-Kong Trad
27
{SX} VIIb Lichtblick Trad
28
{SX} VIIIc Luftiger Pfeiler Trad
29
{SX} V Märzweg Trad
30
{SX} VIIa Mausifalle Trad
31
{SX} VIIIa Meßlatte Trad
32
{SX} VIIa Mittelweg Trad
33
{SX} IXa Negerfuß Trad
34
{SX} VIIa Neujahrsriß Trad
35
{SX} V Nischenrippe Trad

FA: Horst Umlauft & H. Meier, 1968

36
{SX} IXc Nonplusultra (RP) Trad

red point

38
{SX} VIIc Nordweg Trad
39
{SX} VIIa Osterweg Trad
40
{SX} V Ostriß Trad
41
{SX} VIIb Ostverschneidung Trad
42
{SX} IV Ostweg Trad
43
{SX} Xa Parabelast Trad
44
{SX} VIIa Pfingstweg Trad
45
{SX} IXb Phantasie Trad
46
{SX} VIIIb Pinne Trad
47
{SX} Xb Poppsofa (RP) Trad

red point

48
{SX} IV Rampenkamin Trad
49
{SX} II Rechtsweg Trad
50
{SX} IXa Regenhangel Trad
51
{SX} VIIIc Reibungsvariante Trad
52
{SX} Xa Ringparabel Trad
53
{SX} IXc Saubere Arbeit Trad
54
{SX} Xb Saubermann (RP) Trad

red point

55
{SX} VIIc Schlanker Pfeiler Trad
56
{SX} VIIb Schluchtpfeiler Trad
57
{SX} VIIb Schluchtwand Trad
58
{SX} II Schluchtweg Trad
59
{SX} VIIc Schrammtorkante Trad
60
{SX} VIIb Schrammtorriß Trad
61
{SX} IXa Schwarze Hand Trad
62
{SX} IXb Schwarzer Humor Trad
63
{SX} IXc Sehnsucht (RP) Trad

red point

64
{SX} IXa Sesam Trad
65
{SX} VIIIc Sonnenwendpfeiler Trad
66
67
{SX} III Südostweg Trad
68
{SX} IV Südrinne Trad
69
{SX} III Südweg Trad
70
{SX} VIIIc Südwestplatte Trad
71
{SX} VIIa Südwestverschneidung Trad
72
{SX} IXc Terrassenfieber Trad
73
{SX} VIIa Torsten Trad
74
{SX} VIIIa Übler Streich Trad
75
{SX} V Unbekannter Weg Trad
76
{SX} VIIIb Unterm Pantoffel Trad
78
79
{SX} IXb Vereinfachter nweg Trad
80
{SX} III Vergessener Kamin Trad
81
{SX} VIIb VIIb Trad
82
{SX} IXb Westpfeiler (RP) Trad

red point

83
{SX} VIIb Westriß Trad
84
{SX} VIIa Westverschneidung Trad
85
{SX} V Wind im Gesicht Trad
86
{SX} VI Wind in der Hose Trad
87
{SX} VIIa Windschatten Trad
88
{SX} V Winkelzug Trad
89
{SX} IXb Zauberwand Trad
90
{SX} Xa Zauberwand (oU) Trad

without support