Did you know?

Did you know that you can create an account to record, track and share your climbing ascents? Thousands of climbers are already doing this.

Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
2
I Alter Weg Trad
3
VIIb Auf Sand gebaut Trad
4
VIIc Bellevue Trad
5
VIIb Belvedere Trad
6
IV Birkenriß Trad
10
11
VIIIb Edelritt Trad
12
II * Eisenklammerweg Trad 20m
13
IXb Fluoreszenz Trad
14
15

red point

16
VIIb Geländer Trad
18
19
VIIc Geschenk Trad
20
Xa Gesicht Trad
21
VIIb Glocke Trad
22
23
III Heimkehrer Trad
24
IXc Heiße Nummer Trad
25
VIIc Hohe Rippe Trad
26
Xa King-Kong Trad
27
VIIb Lichtblick Trad
28
VIIIc Luftiger Pfeiler Trad
29
V Märzweg Trad
30
VIIa Mausifalle Trad
31
VIIIa Meßlatte Trad
32
VIIa Mittelweg Trad
33
IXa Negerfuß Trad
34
VIIa Neujahrsriß Trad
35

FA: Horst Umlauft & H. Meier, 1968

36

red point

38
VIIc Nordweg Trad
39
VIIa Osterweg Trad
40
V Ostriß Trad
41
42
IV Ostweg Trad
43
Xa Parabelast Trad
44
VIIa Pfingstweg Trad
45
IXb Phantasie Trad
46
VIIIb Pinne Trad
47

red point

48
IV Rampenkamin Trad
49
II Rechtsweg Trad
50
IXa Regenhangel Trad
51
VIIIc Reibungsvariante Trad
52
Xa Ringparabel Trad
53
IXc Saubere Arbeit Trad
54

red point

55
56
VIIb Schluchtpfeiler Trad
57
VIIb Schluchtwand Trad
58
II Schluchtweg Trad
59
VIIc Schrammtorkante Trad
60
VIIb Schrammtorriß Trad
61
IXa Schwarze Hand Trad
62
63
IXc Sehnsucht (RP) Trad

red point

64
IXa Sesam Trad
65
VIIIc Sonnenwendpfeiler Trad
67
III Südostweg Trad
68
IV Südrinne Trad
69
III Südweg Trad
70
VIIIc Südwestplatte Trad
72
73
VIIa Torsten Trad
74
VIIIa Übler Streich Trad
76
VIIIb Unterm Pantoffel Trad
81
VIIb VIIb Trad
82

red point

83
VIIb Westriß Trad
84
87
VIIa Windschatten Trad
88
V Winkelzug Trad
89
IXb Zauberwand Trad
90

without support

Activity

Check out what is happening in Mittlerer Torstein.