A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

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Table of contents

1. Mittlerer Torstein 90 routes in Cliff

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
All Trad

Long/Lat: 14.201691, 50.913517

Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Alles wird besser VIIaTrad
2 Alter Weg ITrad
3 Auf Sand gebaut VIIbTrad
4 Bellevue VIIcTrad
5 Belvedere VIIbTrad
6 Birkenriß IVTrad
7 Brüchige Rippe VTrad
8 Direkte Südwestverschneidung VIIbTrad
9 direkter Birkenriß VIIaTrad
10 Direkter Osterweg VIIaTrad
11 Edelritt VIIIbTrad
12 Eisenklammerweg IITrad
13 Fluoreszenz IXbTrad
14 Frühlingswetter VIIaTrad
15 Gangbang (RP)

red point

XaTrad
16 Geländer VIIbTrad
17 Gemütlicher Weg IITrad
18 Gemütsbummel IITrad
19 Geschenk VIIcTrad
20 Gesicht XaTrad
21 Glocke VIIbTrad
22 Gotischer Bogen IXbTrad
23 Heimkehrer IIITrad
24 Heiße Nummer IXcTrad
25 Hohe Rippe VIIcTrad
26 King-Kong XaTrad
27 Lichtblick VIIbTrad
28 Luftiger Pfeiler VIIIcTrad
29 Märzweg VTrad
30 Mausifalle VIIaTrad
31 Meßlatte VIIIaTrad
32 Mittelweg VIIaTrad
33 Negerfuß IXaTrad
34 Neujahrsriß VIIaTrad
35 Nischenrippe VTrad
36 Nonplusultra (RP)

red point

IXcTrad
37 Nördlicher Pfeilerkamin IIITrad
38 Nordweg VIIcTrad
39 Osterweg VIIaTrad
40 Ostriß VTrad
41 Ostverschneidung VIIbTrad
42 Ostweg IVTrad
43 Parabelast XaTrad
44 Pfingstweg VIIaTrad
45 Phantasie IXbTrad
46 Pinne VIIIbTrad
47 Poppsofa (RP)

red point

XbTrad
48 Rampenkamin IVTrad
49 Rechtsweg IITrad
50 Regenhangel IXaTrad
51 Reibungsvariante VIIIcTrad
52 Ringparabel XaTrad
53 Saubere Arbeit IXcTrad
54 Saubermann (RP)

red point

XbTrad
55 Schlanker Pfeiler VIIcTrad
56 Schluchtpfeiler VIIbTrad
57 Schluchtwand VIIbTrad
58 Schluchtweg IITrad
59 Schrammtorkante VIIcTrad
60 Schrammtorriß VIIbTrad
61 Schwarze Hand IXaTrad
62 Schwarzer Humor IXbTrad
63 Sehnsucht (RP)

red point

IXcTrad
64 Sesam IXaTrad
65 Sonnenwendpfeiler VIIIcTrad
66 Südlicher Pfeilerkamin IIITrad
67 Südostweg IIITrad
68 Südrinne IVTrad
69 Südweg IIITrad
70 Südwestplatte VIIIcTrad
71 Südwestverschneidung VIIaTrad
72 Terrassenfieber IXcTrad
73 Torsten VIIaTrad
74 Übler Streich VIIIaTrad
75 Unbekannter Weg VTrad
76 Unterm Pantoffel VIIIbTrad
77 Variante zum Märzweg VTrad
78 Variante zum Ostweg VTrad
79 Vereinfachter nweg IXbTrad
80 Vergessener Kamin IIITrad
81 VIIb VIIbTrad
82 Westpfeiler (RP)

red point

IXbTrad
83 Westriß VIIbTrad
84 Westverschneidung VIIaTrad
85 Wind im Gesicht VTrad
86 Wind in der Hose VITrad
87 Windschatten VIIaTrad
88 Winkelzug VTrad
89 Zauberwand IXbTrad
90 Zauberwand (oU)

without support

XaTrad

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
I Alter Weg Trad
II Eisenklammerweg Trad
Gemütlicher Weg Trad
Gemütsbummel Trad
Rechtsweg Trad
Schluchtweg Trad
III Heimkehrer Trad
Nördlicher Pfeilerkamin Trad
Südlicher Pfeilerkamin Trad
Südostweg Trad
Südweg Trad
Vergessener Kamin Trad
IV Birkenriß Trad
Ostweg Trad
Rampenkamin Trad
Südrinne Trad
V Brüchige Rippe Trad
Märzweg Trad
Nischenrippe Trad
Ostriß Trad
Unbekannter Weg Trad
Variante zum Märzweg Trad
Variante zum Ostweg Trad
Wind im Gesicht Trad
Winkelzug Trad
VI Wind in der Hose Trad
VIIa Alles wird besser Trad
Direkter Osterweg Trad
Frühlingswetter Trad
Mausifalle Trad
Mittelweg Trad
Neujahrsriß Trad
Osterweg Trad
Pfingstweg Trad
Südwestverschneidung Trad
Torsten Trad
Westverschneidung Trad
Windschatten Trad
direkter Birkenriß Trad
VIIb Auf Sand gebaut Trad
Belvedere Trad
Direkte Südwestverschneidung Trad
Geländer Trad
Glocke Trad
Lichtblick Trad
Ostverschneidung Trad
Schluchtpfeiler Trad
Schluchtwand Trad
Schrammtorriß Trad
VIIb Trad
Westriß Trad
VIIc Bellevue Trad
Geschenk Trad
Hohe Rippe Trad
Nordweg Trad
Schlanker Pfeiler Trad
Schrammtorkante Trad
VIIIa Meßlatte Trad
Übler Streich Trad
VIIIb Edelritt Trad
Pinne Trad
Unterm Pantoffel Trad
VIIIc Luftiger Pfeiler Trad
Reibungsvariante Trad
Sonnenwendpfeiler Trad
Südwestplatte Trad
IXa Negerfuß Trad
Regenhangel Trad
Schwarze Hand Trad
Sesam Trad
IXb Fluoreszenz Trad
Gotischer Bogen Trad
Phantasie Trad
Schwarzer Humor Trad
Vereinfachter nweg Trad
Westpfeiler (RP) Trad
Zauberwand Trad
IXc Heiße Nummer Trad
Nonplusultra (RP) Trad
Saubere Arbeit Trad
Sehnsucht (RP) Trad
Terrassenfieber Trad
Xa Gangbang (RP) Trad
Gesicht Trad
King-Kong Trad
Parabelast Trad
Ringparabel Trad
Zauberwand (oU) Trad
Xb Poppsofa (RP) Trad
Saubermann (RP) Trad