A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Table of contents

1. Mittlerer Torstein 90 routes in Cliff

All Trad

Long/Lat: 14.201691, 50.913517

Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Alles wird besser VIIa Trad
2 Alter Weg I Trad
3 Auf Sand gebaut VIIb Trad
4 Bellevue VIIc Trad
5 Belvedere VIIb Trad
6 Birkenriß IV Trad
7 Brüchige Rippe V Trad
8 Direkte Südwestverschneidung VIIb Trad
9 direkter Birkenriß VIIa Trad
10 Direkter Osterweg VIIa Trad
11 Edelritt VIIIb Trad
12 Eisenklammerweg II Trad
13 Fluoreszenz IXb Trad
14 Frühlingswetter VIIa Trad
15 Gangbang (RP)

red point

Xa Trad
16 Geländer VIIb Trad
17 Gemütlicher Weg II Trad
18 Gemütsbummel II Trad
19 Geschenk VIIc Trad
20 Gesicht Xa Trad
21 Glocke VIIb Trad
22 Gotischer Bogen IXb Trad
23 Heimkehrer III Trad
24 Heiße Nummer IXc Trad
25 Hohe Rippe VIIc Trad
26 King-Kong Xa Trad
27 Lichtblick VIIb Trad
28 Luftiger Pfeiler VIIIc Trad
29 Märzweg V Trad
30 Mausifalle VIIa Trad
31 Meßlatte VIIIa Trad
32 Mittelweg VIIa Trad
33 Negerfuß IXa Trad
34 Neujahrsriß VIIa Trad
35 Nischenrippe

FA: Horst Umlauft, H. Meier, 1968

V Trad
36 Nonplusultra (RP)

red point

IXc Trad
37 Nördlicher Pfeilerkamin III Trad
38 Nordweg VIIc Trad
39 Osterweg VIIa Trad
40 Ostriß V Trad
41 Ostverschneidung VIIb Trad
42 Ostweg IV Trad
43 Parabelast Xa Trad
44 Pfingstweg VIIa Trad
45 Phantasie IXb Trad
46 Pinne VIIIb Trad
47 Poppsofa (RP)

red point

Xb Trad
48 Rampenkamin IV Trad
49 Rechtsweg II Trad
50 Regenhangel IXa Trad
51 Reibungsvariante VIIIc Trad
52 Ringparabel Xa Trad
53 Saubere Arbeit IXc Trad
54 Saubermann (RP)

red point

Xb Trad
55 Schlanker Pfeiler VIIc Trad
56 Schluchtpfeiler VIIb Trad
57 Schluchtwand VIIb Trad
58 Schluchtweg II Trad
59 Schrammtorkante VIIc Trad
60 Schrammtorriß VIIb Trad
61 Schwarze Hand IXa Trad
62 Schwarzer Humor IXb Trad
63 Sehnsucht (RP)

red point

IXc Trad
64 Sesam IXa Trad
65 Sonnenwendpfeiler VIIIc Trad
66 Südlicher Pfeilerkamin III Trad
67 Südostweg III Trad
68 Südrinne IV Trad
69 Südweg III Trad
70 Südwestplatte VIIIc Trad
71 Südwestverschneidung VIIa Trad
72 Terrassenfieber IXc Trad
73 Torsten VIIa Trad
74 Übler Streich VIIIa Trad
75 Unbekannter Weg V Trad
76 Unterm Pantoffel VIIIb Trad
77 Variante zum Märzweg V Trad
78 Variante zum Ostweg V Trad
79 Vereinfachter nweg IXb Trad
80 Vergessener Kamin III Trad
81 VIIb VIIb Trad
82 Westpfeiler (RP)

red point

IXb Trad
83 Westriß VIIb Trad
84 Westverschneidung VIIa Trad
85 Wind im Gesicht V Trad
86 Wind in der Hose VI Trad
87 Windschatten VIIa Trad
88 Winkelzug V Trad
89 Zauberwand IXb Trad
90 Zauberwand (oU)

without support

Xa Trad

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
I Alter Weg Trad
II Eisenklammerweg Trad
Gemütlicher Weg Trad
Gemütsbummel Trad
Rechtsweg Trad
Schluchtweg Trad
III Heimkehrer Trad
Nördlicher Pfeilerkamin Trad
Südlicher Pfeilerkamin Trad
Südostweg Trad
Südweg Trad
Vergessener Kamin Trad
IV Birkenriß Trad
Ostweg Trad
Rampenkamin Trad
Südrinne Trad
V Brüchige Rippe Trad
Märzweg Trad
Nischenrippe Trad
Ostriß Trad
Unbekannter Weg Trad
Variante zum Märzweg Trad
Variante zum Ostweg Trad
Wind im Gesicht Trad
Winkelzug Trad
VI Wind in der Hose Trad
VIIa Alles wird besser Trad
Direkter Osterweg Trad
Frühlingswetter Trad
Mausifalle Trad
Mittelweg Trad
Neujahrsriß Trad
Osterweg Trad
Pfingstweg Trad
Südwestverschneidung Trad
Torsten Trad
Westverschneidung Trad
Windschatten Trad
direkter Birkenriß Trad
VIIb Auf Sand gebaut Trad
Belvedere Trad
Direkte Südwestverschneidung Trad
Geländer Trad
Glocke Trad
Lichtblick Trad
Ostverschneidung Trad
Schluchtpfeiler Trad
Schluchtwand Trad
Schrammtorriß Trad
VIIb Trad
Westriß Trad
VIIc Bellevue Trad
Geschenk Trad
Hohe Rippe Trad
Nordweg Trad
Schlanker Pfeiler Trad
Schrammtorkante Trad
VIIIa Meßlatte Trad
Übler Streich Trad
VIIIb Edelritt Trad
Pinne Trad
Unterm Pantoffel Trad
VIIIc Luftiger Pfeiler Trad
Reibungsvariante Trad
Sonnenwendpfeiler Trad
Südwestplatte Trad
IXa Negerfuß Trad
Regenhangel Trad
Schwarze Hand Trad
Sesam Trad
IXb Fluoreszenz Trad
Gotischer Bogen Trad
Phantasie Trad
Schwarzer Humor Trad
Vereinfachter nweg Trad
Westpfeiler (RP) Trad
Zauberwand Trad
IXc Heiße Nummer Trad
Nonplusultra (RP) Trad
Saubere Arbeit Trad
Sehnsucht (RP) Trad
Terrassenfieber Trad
Xa Gangbang (RP) Trad
Gesicht Trad
King-Kong Trad
Parabelast Trad
Ringparabel Trad
Zauberwand (oU) Trad
Xb Poppsofa (RP) Trad
Saubermann (RP) Trad