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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1

red point

2
{SX} II Alter Weg Trad
3
{SX} II AV zum Westweg Trad
4
{SX} VIIc Diagonale Trad
5
{SX} VIIc Fotokante Trad
7
{SX} Xc Held der Arbeit Trad
8

red point

10
{SX} II Kaminvariante Trad
11
{SX} VIIIb Klassischer Ausklang Trad
12
{SX} VIIc Maienkante Trad
13
{SX} VIIIb Max & Moritz Trad
14
{SX} VIIc Mehlsack Trad
15
{SX} Xc Müllersteinkante Trad
16
{SX} VIIa Nischenpfeiler Trad
17
{SX} IV Nischenweg Trad
18
{SX} III Nordostkamin Trad
19
{SX} VIIb Nordostkante Trad
20
{SX} V Nordverschneidung Trad
21
{SX} VI Nordwand Trad
22
{SX} IXb Nordwestkante (RP) Trad

red point

23
{SX} VI Ostkante Trad
24
{SX} VIIa Ostkante (oU) Trad

without support

25
{SX} VIIb Ostpfeiler Trad
26
{SX} VIIIc Reinheitsgebot Trad
27
{SX} VI Rißweg Trad
28
{SX} VIIIa Sächsischer Riß Trad
29
{SX} VIIc Sandgewitter Trad
30
{SX} VIIIa Schildbürgerriß Trad
31
{SX} VIIIa Steinbruchwand Trad
32
{SX} II Südkamin Trad
33
{SX} VIIb Südpfeiler Trad
34
{SX} VIIb Südverschneidung Trad
35
{SX} VIIa Südwand Trad
36
{SX} VIIa Südweg Trad
37
{SX} VIIa Südwestriß Trad
38
{SX} VIIIc Tagestour (RP) Trad

red point

39
{SX} IV Talweg Trad
40
{SX} II Tunnelweg Trad
41
{SX} VIIIb Typisch Sachsen Trad
42
{SX} VIIc Westpfeiler Trad
43
{SX} V Westriß Trad
44
{SX} II Westweg Trad
45
{SX} VIIc Wieder im Mai Trad