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Table of contents

1. Müllerstein 45 routes in Cliff

All Trad

Long/Lat: 14.206975, 50.913509

Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Aktivist der ersten Stunde (RP)

red point

Xb Trad
2 Alter Weg II Trad
3 AV zum Westweg II Trad
4 Diagonale VIIc Trad
5 Fotokante VIIc Trad
6 Große Nordverschneidung VIIb Trad
7 Held der Arbeit Xc Trad
8 Hochsommerausstieg (RP)

red point

IXb Trad
9 Hochsommerausstieg zur Nordwestkante IXb Trad
10 Kaminvariante II Trad
11 Klassischer Ausklang VIIIb Trad
12 Maienkante VIIc Trad
13 Max & Moritz VIIIb Trad
14 Mehlsack VIIc Trad
15 Müllersteinkante Xc Trad
16 Nischenpfeiler VIIa Trad
17 Nischenweg IV Trad
18 Nordostkamin III Trad
19 Nordostkante VIIb Trad
20 Nordverschneidung V Trad
21 Nordwand VI Trad
22 Nordwestkante (RP)

red point

IXb Trad
23 Ostkante VI Trad
24 Ostkante (oU)

without support

VIIa Trad
25 Ostpfeiler VIIb Trad
26 Reinheitsgebot VIIIc Trad
27 Rißweg VI Trad
28 Sächsischer Riß VIIIa Trad
29 Sandgewitter VIIc Trad
30 Schildbürgerriß VIIIa Trad
31 Steinbruchwand VIIIa Trad
32 Südkamin II Trad
33 Südpfeiler VIIb Trad
34 Südverschneidung VIIb Trad
35 Südwand VIIa Trad
36 Südweg VIIa Trad
37 Südwestriß VIIa Trad
38 Tagestour (RP)

red point

VIIIc Trad
39 Talweg IV Trad
40 Tunnelweg II Trad
41 Typisch Sachsen VIIIb Trad
42 Westpfeiler VIIc Trad
43 Westriß V Trad
44 Westweg II Trad
45 Wieder im Mai VIIc Trad

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
II AV zum Westweg Trad
Alter Weg Trad
Kaminvariante Trad
Südkamin Trad
Tunnelweg Trad
Westweg Trad
III Nordostkamin Trad
IV Nischenweg Trad
Talweg Trad
V Nordverschneidung Trad
Westriß Trad
VI Nordwand Trad
Ostkante Trad
Rißweg Trad
VIIa Nischenpfeiler Trad
Ostkante (oU) Trad
Südwand Trad
Südweg Trad
Südwestriß Trad
VIIb Große Nordverschneidung Trad
Nordostkante Trad
Ostpfeiler Trad
Südpfeiler Trad
Südverschneidung Trad
VIIc Diagonale Trad
Fotokante Trad
Maienkante Trad
Mehlsack Trad
Sandgewitter Trad
Westpfeiler Trad
Wieder im Mai Trad
VIIIa Schildbürgerriß Trad
Steinbruchwand Trad
Sächsischer Riß Trad
VIIIb Klassischer Ausklang Trad
Max & Moritz Trad
Typisch Sachsen Trad
VIIIc Reinheitsgebot Trad
Tagestour (RP) Trad
IXb Hochsommerausstieg (RP) Trad
Hochsommerausstieg zur Nordwestkante Trad
Nordwestkante (RP) Trad
Xb Aktivist der ersten Stunde (RP) Trad
Xc Held der Arbeit Trad
Müllersteinkante Trad