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Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 Aborigines
VIIIa
Trad
2 Alter Weg
III
Trad
3 Bumerang
VIIc
Trad
4 Dietrichweg
VIIc
Trad
5 Direkte Westwand
VIIIa
Trad
6 Direkter Nordostweg
VIIb
Trad
7 Eiserner Kamin
II
Trad
8 Eiserner Weg
VIIb
Trad
9 Fischervariante
IV
Trad
10 Gelber Weg
III
Trad
11 Klarweg
IV
Trad
12 Koppschuß
IXb
Trad
13 Nordkante
VIIa
Trad
14 Nordostweg
VIIb
Trad
15 Nordwand
VIIc
Trad
16 Nordwestwand
VIIIb
Trad
17 Osterfest
IXa
Trad
18 Ostverbindung
V
Trad
19 Regenbogen
VIIIb
Trad
20 Schartenriß
VIIb
Trad
21 Strubichweg
V
Trad
22 Südwestwand
VIIIb
Trad
23 Variante zum Dietrichweg
VIIb
Trad
24 Verbindungsvariante
VIIc
Trad
25 Verbindungsweg
III
Trad
26 Von A bis Y
IXc
Trad
27 Weiter Weg
VIIa
Trad
28 Westwand
VIIc
Trad
29 Zickzackweg
VIIa
Trad