A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Table of contents

1. Nördlicher Osterturm 29 routes in Cliff

All Trad

Long/Lat: 14.200252, 50.911684

Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Aborigines VIIIa Trad
2 Alter Weg III Trad
3 Bumerang VIIc Trad
4 Dietrichweg VIIc Trad
5 Direkte Westwand VIIIa Trad
6 Direkter Nordostweg VIIb Trad
7 Eiserner Kamin II Trad
8 Eiserner Weg VIIb Trad
9 Fischervariante IV Trad
10 Gelber Weg III Trad
11 Klarweg IV Trad
12 Koppschuß IXb Trad
13 Nordkante VIIa Trad
14 Nordostweg VIIb Trad
15 Nordwand VIIc Trad
16 Nordwestwand VIIIb Trad
17 Osterfest IXa Trad
18 Ostverbindung V Trad
19 Regenbogen VIIIb Trad
20 Schartenriß VIIb Trad
21 Strubichweg V Trad
22 Südwestwand VIIIb Trad
23 Variante zum Dietrichweg VIIb Trad
24 Verbindungsvariante VIIc Trad
25 Verbindungsweg III Trad
26 Von A bis Y IXc Trad
27 Weiter Weg VIIa Trad
28 Westwand VIIc Trad
29 Zickzackweg VIIa Trad

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
II Eiserner Kamin Trad
III Alter Weg Trad
Gelber Weg Trad
Verbindungsweg Trad
IV Fischervariante Trad
Klarweg Trad
V Ostverbindung Trad
Strubichweg Trad
VIIa Nordkante Trad
Weiter Weg Trad
Zickzackweg Trad
VIIb Direkter Nordostweg Trad
Eiserner Weg Trad
Nordostweg Trad
Schartenriß Trad
Variante zum Dietrichweg Trad
VIIc Bumerang Trad
Dietrichweg Trad
Nordwand Trad
Verbindungsvariante Trad
Westwand Trad
VIIIa Aborigines Trad
Direkte Westwand Trad
VIIIb Nordwestwand Trad
Regenbogen Trad
Südwestwand Trad
IXa Osterfest Trad
IXb Koppschuß Trad
IXc Von A bis Y Trad