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Obrigenwand Guide

  • Grade context: SX
  • Ascents: 5

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Campbell Gome David M. Peter Colditz Victor DDjensl

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Obrigenwand 23 routes in Cliff

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 50.912291, 14.187860

access issues

Das Klettern ist in der Sächsischen Schweiz nur nach den "Sächsischen Kletterregeln" gestattet.

Dementsprechend darf nur an genehmigten Felsen geklettert werden. An allen anderen Felsformationen besteht Kletterverbot.

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at DAV Sachsen or current list of climbing bans / aktuelle Sperrungsliste.

inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

ethic

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake. For climbability an extra model was developed.. CHECK IT at unclear conditions.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
inherited from Sächsische Schweiz
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Alter Weg

Ganz links in der Südostseite Kamin zG.

FA: Johannes Seibt, 1912

III Trad
2 Alter Weg Erwähnung

Außen hoch spreizend.

IV Trad
3 Südkante

With support VIIb.

VIIIb Mixed trad 2
4 Krakatoa

AF IXc.

Xa Mixed trad 3
5 Stromboli

AF Xa. 11m rechts vom "Südwestweg" Wand (3R) zum 3.R "Gloriosa".

Xb Mixed trad 4
6 Gloriosa

AF IXb.

IXc Trad
7 Südwestweg

Links in der Südseite Kamin in Winkel zG.

III Trad
8 Ober

FA: Joachim Friedrich & Gunter Hommel, 2008

VIIIb Mixed trad 5
9 Stimmbruch

FA: Ingo Macheleidt, S. Neumann & M. Kriegel, 2001

VIIIa Mixed trad 2
10 Verlorene Stimmen IXa Trad
11 Dopamin

FA: Thomas Willenberg, 2007

XIIa Mixed trad 7
12 Nordwestweg II Trad 15m
13 Dünne Stelle II Trad
14 Annektion

Links vom "Stützpfeiler" anfangs überhängende Verschneidung und Kamin zur Hochscharte. "Dünne Stelle" zG.

FA: Lars Reuß & Peter Zuppke, 22 Apr 2018

VI Trad
15 Stützpfeiler

Links vom "Nordwestweg" Riss und Kante (2R) auf Pfeiler (Nachholering). Übertritt und Rinne zG.

FA: Manfred Vogel, 28 Jul 2016

VIIIb Mixed trad 2
16 Kluftriss

With support V.

VIIa Trad
17 Kluftriss Variante IV Trad
18 Grüner Kamin III Trad
19 Röhre V Trad
20 Kalter Weg VIIa Trad
21 Sprung II 2 Trad
22 Linker Übergang IV Trad
23 Linker Übergang Variante IV Trad

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
II Dünne Stelle Trad
Nordwestweg Trad 15m
II/2 Sprung Trad
III Alter Weg Trad
Grüner Kamin Trad
Südwestweg Trad
IV Alter Weg Erwähnung Trad
Kluftriss Variante Trad
Linker Übergang Trad
Linker Übergang Variante Trad
V Röhre Trad
VI Annektion Trad
VIIa Kalter Weg Trad
Kluftriss Trad
VIIIa Stimmbruch Mixed trad 2
VIIIb Ober Mixed trad 5
Stützpfeiler Mixed trad 2
Südkante Mixed trad 2
IXa Verlorene Stimmen Trad
IXc Gloriosa Trad
Xa Krakatoa Mixed trad 3
Xb Stromboli Mixed trad 4
XIIa Dopamin Mixed trad 7
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