A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Table of contents

1. Onkel 22 routes in Cliff

All Trad

Long/Lat: 14.204024, 50.912499

Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Alter Weg IV Trad
2 Dunkler / Heller Kamin IV Trad
3 Dunkler Kamin IV Trad
4 Ei-ei-Weg VIIa Trad
5 Gruftriß (RP)

red point

VIIa Trad
6 Heller Kamin IV Trad
7 Hesse-Variante V Trad
8 Kaminvariante IV Trad
9 Kluftwand VIIc Trad
10 Mutsprung 4 Trad
11 Nordostrinne VIIc Trad
12 Nordostrinne (Merbtrinne) VIIb Trad
13 Nordostrinne (Merbtrinne) (oU)

without support

VIIc Trad
14 Nordwand VIIc Trad
15 Nordwestkante VIIIa Trad
16 Plattiger Riß V Trad
17 Retour VIIIa Trad
18 Südriß VIIa Trad
19 Südwand VIIc Trad
20 Super crack (RP)

red point

VIIc Trad
21 Variante VIIb Trad
22 Westkante VI Trad

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
IV Alter Weg Trad
Dunkler / Heller Kamin Trad
Dunkler Kamin Trad
Heller Kamin Trad
Kaminvariante Trad
V Hesse-Variante Trad
Plattiger Riß Trad
VI Westkante Trad
VIIa Ei-ei-Weg Trad
Gruftriß (RP) Trad
Südriß Trad
VIIb Nordostrinne (Merbtrinne) Trad
Variante Trad
VIIc Kluftwand Trad
Nordostrinne Trad
Nordostrinne (Merbtrinne) (oU) Trad
Nordwand Trad
Super crack (RP) Trad
Südwand Trad
VIIIa Nordwestkante Trad
Retour Trad
4 Mutsprung Trad