A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

anon

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Schrammsteinkegel 27 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 14.202318, 50.911639

Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Alter Weg IIITrad
2 Blitzkrieg XcTrad
3 Blockweg VIIaTrad
4 Direkte Südostkante VIIaTrad
5 Große Reibung VIIbTrad
6 Große Reibung (oU)

without support

VIIcTrad
7 Happy End IXbTrad
8 Hintere Reibung VIIaTrad
9 Kegelabend IXaTrad
10 Kleine Reibung VIIaTrad
11 Kreuzweg VTrad
12 Perestroika XIaTrad
13 Reibungsdurchzug VIIcTrad
14 Schartenwand VIIaTrad
15 Schartenweg IIITrad
16 Schrägaufzug VIIIaTrad
17 Sonnige Variante VIIcTrad
18 Stille Schatten XaTrad
19 Südostkante VIIaTrad
20 Südostkante original VITrad
21 Südweg VITrad
22 Talweg VIIaTrad
23 Umarmung VIIIbTrad
24 Variante zur Südostkante VITrad
25 Verlegenheitsvariante VIIaTrad
26 Vielseitigkeit XaTrad
27 Windspiel VIIIaTrad

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
III Alter Weg Trad
Schartenweg Trad
V Kreuzweg Trad
VI Südostkante original Trad
Südweg Trad
Variante zur Südostkante Trad
VIIa Blockweg Trad
Direkte Südostkante Trad
Hintere Reibung Trad
Kleine Reibung Trad
Schartenwand Trad
Südostkante Trad
Talweg Trad
Verlegenheitsvariante Trad
VIIb Große Reibung Trad
VIIc Große Reibung (oU) Trad
Reibungsdurchzug Trad
Sonnige Variante Trad
VIIIa Schrägaufzug Trad
Windspiel Trad
VIIIb Umarmung Trad
IXa Kegelabend Trad
IXb Happy End Trad
Xa Stille Schatten Trad
Vielseitigkeit Trad
Xc Blitzkrieg Trad
XIa Perestroika Trad