A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

anon

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Schwager 22 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 14.203732, 50.912592

Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Alter Weg VTrad
2 Cornichon III/4Trad
3 DA zur Kluftvariante VIIaTrad
4 direkter Nordwestweg VIIIbTrad
5 Eisvariante VIIaTrad
6 Freundschaftsweg XbTrad
7 Höhlenkante VIIIcTrad
8 Jalousie IXcTrad
9 Kluftvariante VIIaTrad
10 Kluftvariante z. AW VTrad
11 Kluftvariante z. AW (oU)

without support

VIIaTrad
12 Nordwand IXbTrad
13 Nordwanddirettissima (RP)

red point

XbTrad
14 Nordwestweg VIIIbTrad
15 Schachtübung VIIIcTrad
16 Schartenriß VIIbTrad
17 S-Kurve IXcTrad
18 Spreizvariante VIIIbTrad
19 Sprung 4Trad
20 Südwestkante IXbTrad
21 Talseite VIIIcTrad
22 Talseite (oU)

without support

IXaTrad

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
III/4 Cornichon Trad
V Alter Weg Trad
Kluftvariante z. AW Trad
VIIa DA zur Kluftvariante Trad
Eisvariante Trad
Kluftvariante Trad
Kluftvariante z. AW (oU) Trad
VIIb Schartenriß Trad
VIIIb Nordwestweg Trad
Spreizvariante Trad
direkter Nordwestweg Trad
VIIIc Höhlenkante Trad
Schachtübung Trad
Talseite Trad
IXa Talseite (oU) Trad
IXb Nordwand Trad
Südwestkante Trad
IXc Jalousie Trad
S-Kurve Trad
Xb Freundschaftsweg Trad
Nordwanddirettissima (RP) Trad
4 Sprung Trad