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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
{SX} IXc Barbarei Trad
2
{SX} II Bergweg Trad
3
{SX} VIIa Böse Überraschung Trad
4
{SX} VIIc Die Glücklosen Trad
5
{SX} VIIb Direkter Südwestriß Trad
6
{SX} IXa Drama Trad
7
{SX} VIIb eiserner Vorhang Trad
8
{SX} VIIIa Endspurt Trad
9
{SX} IXb Fehlgeburt Trad
10
{SX} VIIIb Grufti Trad
11
{SX} V Kleiner Anfang Trad
12
{SX} VIIa Kleines Rätsel Trad
13
{SX} Xa Know-how Trad
14
{SX} IXa Kraftbrühe Trad
15
{SX} IXa Kurzer Biß Trad
16
{SX} IXa Love Story Trad
17
{SX} VIIa Nordostverschneidung Trad
18
{SX} I Nordwestkamin Trad
19
{SX} VIIa Schartenweg Trad
20
{SX} VIIIc Schlaflose Nacht Trad
21
{SX} IV Schluchtriss Trad
22
{SX} VIIIa Schneeflöckchen Trad
23
{SX} IXb Sonnenglut Trad
24
{SX} VIIIb Sterbender Schwan Trad
25
{SX} VIIa Südwestriß Trad
26
{SX} VIIa Südwestweg Trad
27
{SX} VIIIb Sumpfblume Trad
28
{SX} IXc TNT Trad
29
{SX} III Trichterkamin Trad
30
{SX} IV Variante Trad
31
{SX} VIIa Weg der Regenwürmer Trad