Steinschluchtwand Cliff guide

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Campbell Gome

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1. Steinschluchtwand 31 in Cliff
2. Index by grade

1. Steinschluchtwand 31 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad

Long/Lat: 14.188509, 50.915729

Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
no chalk, no pof
Sign the summit register.
Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Barbarei	IXc	Trad
2	Bergweg	II	Trad
3	Böse Überraschung	VIIa	Trad
4	Die Glücklosen	VIIc	Trad
5	Direkter Südwestriß	VIIb	Trad
6	Drama	IXa	Trad
7	eiserner Vorhang	VIIb	Trad
8	Endspurt	VIIIa	Trad
9	Fehlgeburt	IXb	Trad
10	Grufti	VIIIb	Trad
11	Kleiner Anfang	V	Trad
12	Kleines Rätsel	VIIa	Trad
13	Know-how	Xa	Trad
14	Kraftbrühe	IXa	Trad
15	Kurzer Biß	IXa	Trad
16	Love Story	IXa	Trad
17	Nordostverschneidung	VIIa	Trad
18	Nordwestkamin	I	Trad
19	Schartenweg	VIIa	Trad
20	Schlaflose Nacht	VIIIc	Trad
21	Schluchtriss	IV	Trad
22	Schneeflöckchen	VIIIa	Trad
23	Sonnenglut	IXb	Trad
24	Sterbender Schwan	VIIIb	Trad
25	Südwestriß	VIIa	Trad
26	Südwestweg	VIIa	Trad
27	Sumpfblume	VIIIb	Trad
28	TNT	IXc	Trad
29	Trichterkamin	III	Trad
30	Variante	IV	Trad
31	Weg der Regenwürmer	VIIa	Trad

2. Index by grade

Grade	Name	Style
I	Nordwestkamin	Trad
II	Bergweg	Trad
III	Trichterkamin	Trad
IV	Schluchtriss	Trad
	Variante	Trad
V	Kleiner Anfang	Trad
VIIa	Böse Überraschung	Trad
	Kleines Rätsel	Trad
	Nordostverschneidung	Trad
	Schartenweg	Trad
	Südwestriß	Trad
	Südwestweg	Trad
	Weg der Regenwürmer	Trad
VIIb	Direkter Südwestriß	Trad
	eiserner Vorhang	Trad
VIIc	Die Glücklosen	Trad
VIIIa	Endspurt	Trad
	Schneeflöckchen	Trad
VIIIb	Grufti	Trad
	Sterbender Schwan	Trad
	Sumpfblume	Trad
VIIIc	Schlaflose Nacht	Trad
IXa	Drama	Trad
	Kraftbrühe	Trad
	Kurzer Biß	Trad
	Love Story	Trad
IXb	Fehlgeburt	Trad
	Sonnenglut	Trad
IXc	Barbarei	Trad
	TNT	Trad
Xa	Know-how	Trad

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Cliff Guide for Steinschluchtwand

Warning

Contributors

Table of contents

1. Steinschluchtwand 31 routes in Cliff

2. Index by grade