A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Table of contents

1. Steinschluchtwand 31 routes in Cliff

All Trad

Long/Lat: 14.188509, 50.915729

Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Barbarei IXc Trad
2 Bergweg II Trad
3 Böse Überraschung VIIa Trad
4 Die Glücklosen VIIc Trad
5 Direkter Südwestriß VIIb Trad
6 Drama IXa Trad
7 eiserner Vorhang VIIb Trad
8 Endspurt VIIIa Trad
9 Fehlgeburt IXb Trad
10 Grufti VIIIb Trad
11 Kleiner Anfang V Trad
12 Kleines Rätsel VIIa Trad
13 Know-how Xa Trad
14 Kraftbrühe IXa Trad
15 Kurzer Biß IXa Trad
16 Love Story IXa Trad
17 Nordostverschneidung VIIa Trad
18 Nordwestkamin I Trad
19 Schartenweg VIIa Trad
20 Schlaflose Nacht VIIIc Trad
21 Schluchtriss IV Trad
22 Schneeflöckchen VIIIa Trad
23 Sonnenglut IXb Trad
24 Sterbender Schwan VIIIb Trad
25 Südwestriß VIIa Trad
26 Südwestweg VIIa Trad
27 Sumpfblume VIIIb Trad
28 TNT IXc Trad
29 Trichterkamin III Trad
30 Variante IV Trad
31 Weg der Regenwürmer VIIa Trad

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
I Nordwestkamin Trad
II Bergweg Trad
III Trichterkamin Trad
IV Schluchtriss Trad
Variante Trad
V Kleiner Anfang Trad
VIIa Böse Überraschung Trad
Kleines Rätsel Trad
Nordostverschneidung Trad
Schartenweg Trad
Südwestriß Trad
Südwestweg Trad
Weg der Regenwürmer Trad
VIIb Direkter Südwestriß Trad
eiserner Vorhang Trad
VIIc Die Glücklosen Trad
VIIIa Endspurt Trad
Schneeflöckchen Trad
VIIIb Grufti Trad
Sterbender Schwan Trad
Sumpfblume Trad
VIIIc Schlaflose Nacht Trad
IXa Drama Trad
Kraftbrühe Trad
Kurzer Biß Trad
Love Story Trad
IXb Fehlgeburt Trad
Sonnenglut Trad
IXc Barbarei Trad
TNT Trad
Xa Know-how Trad