Cliff Guide for Südlicher Osterturm

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Contributors

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Table of contents

1. Südlicher Osterturm 29 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad

Long/Lat: 14.200394, 50.911406

Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

• Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
• No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
• No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
• no chalk, no pof
• Sign the summit register.
• Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
• Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
• Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

2. Index by grade

Grade		Stars	Name	Style
III			Alter Weg	Trad
			Brionvariante zum Wenzelweg	Trad
			Leichter Weg	Trad
			Meylanvariante zum Wenzelweg	Trad
			Meylanweg	Trad
			Rügerweg	Trad
IV			Wenzelweg	Trad
V			Daxensteinerweg	Trad
			Fehrmannvariante zum Leichten Weg	Trad
VI			Hünigweg	Trad
VIIa			Hochsommerweg	Trad
			Hänigweg	Trad
			Neuer Südwestweg	Trad
			Rekognoszationsvariante zum Leichten Weg	Trad
			Südwestweg	Trad
VIIb			Frühlingsweg	Trad
			Ostriß	Trad
VIIc			Direkte Westwand	Trad
			Emporweg	Trad
			Ostriß (oU)	Trad
VIIIa			EV zur Nordwestwand	Trad
			Nordwestwand	Trad
			Westwand (RP)	Trad
VIIIb			über den Wolken	Trad
VIIIc			Dessert	Trad
			Sichere Variante zur Sprungschanze	Trad
IXa			Emporpfeiler	Trad
			Sprungschanze	Trad
IXb			Ostwind	Trad