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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.


Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
SX III Alter Weg Trad

FA: Conrad Meurer, F. Meurer & O. Schuster, 1891

SX Xc Apokalypse Trad
SX III AV zum Westweg Trad
SX VIIc Direkte Südwand Trad
SX VIIc Direkter Südweg Trad
SX III EV zum Westweg Trad
SX VIIIb Gelbe Variante Trad
SX VIIc Gewitterweg Trad
SX VIIIb Mittellinie Trad
SX VIIb Neue Südwand Trad
SX VIIc Neuer Westweg Trad
SX V Nordweg Trad
SX V Ostweg Trad
SX VIIa Schandauer Weg Trad
SX VIIa Schartenweg Trad
SX V Südwand Trad
SX VI Südwestkante Mixed 2

FA: Hans Geiger, K. Weigand & K. Horn, 1913

SX VIIa Südwestkante (oU) Mixed 2

without support

FA: Hans Geiger, K. Weigand & K. Horn, 1913


FA: Rudolf Fehrmann, H. Rumpelt & O. Graf v. Mandelsloh, 1907

SX VIIIc Westpfeiler Trad
SX III Westweg Trad
SX III Westweg mit AV Trad