Hello!

First time here?

theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.

You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...

» go exploring, » learn more or » ask us a question

Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
IXa A & L Trad
2
IXa Abkürzung Trad
3
IV Alte Stufen Trad
4
III * Alter Weg Trad
5
VIIIb Besuch bei Arno Trad
6
VIIb Bruchholzkante Trad
7

without support

9
VIIIb Direkte Südwand Trad
10
11
VIIIb Drachenwand Trad
12
13
VIIIb Ein Herbsttag Trad
14
VIIIc Ein Sommertag Trad
15
VIIa 2 Elbleitenstiege Trad
16
VIIc Erkerwand Trad
17
VIIa Erkerweg Trad
18
19

red point

20
VIIa Gehackter Weg Trad
21
IXc Grand Funk Trad
22
IXc Großer Funke Trad
23
III Hackebeilchen Trad
24
III Hackepeter Trad
25
III Hackklotz Trad
26
VIIIb Jackpot Trad
27
VIIIb Kalt und heiß Trad
28
VIIa Kinder,Kinder Trad
29
VIIIa Märzvariante Trad
31
VIIa Nebensache Trad
32
VIIb Neue Südwand Trad
33
VIIb Neuer Nordweg Trad
34
VIIc Nordostrinne Trad
35
VIIIa Nordostrinne (oU) Trad

without support

36
VI Nordostweg Trad
37
IXa Nordwand Trad
38
V *** Nordweg Trad
39
VIIa Ostende Trad
40
III Ostkamin Trad
41
VIIa Ostkamin direkt Trad
42
44
VIIc Seitenflügel Trad
45
VIIc Sieberkante Trad
46
IXb Solaris Trad
47
48

red point

49
VIIc 2 Südostweg Trad
50
VIIIa Südostweg (oU) Trad

without support

51
VIIa Südwand Trad
52
VIIa Südweg Trad
53
VIIc Umweltkonferenz Trad
56
VIIIc Westpfeiler Trad
57
V Westweg Trad
58

red point

Activity

Check out what is happening in Vorderer Torstein.