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Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 A & L
IXa
Trad
2 Abkürzung
IXa
Trad
3 Alte Stufen
IV
Trad
4 Alter Weg
III
Trad
5 Besuch bei Arno
VIIIb
Trad
6 Bruchholzkante
VIIb
Trad
7 Bruchholzkante (oU)

without support

VIIc
Trad
8 Die einfachen Menschen
VIIIb
Trad
9 Direkte Südwand
VIIIb
Trad
10 Direkter Südostweg
VIIIb
Trad
11 Drachenwand
VIIIb
Trad
12 Ein Frühlingstag
VIIc
Trad
13 Ein Herbsttag
VIIIb
Trad
14 Ein Sommertag
VIIIc
Trad
15 Elbleitenstiege
VIIa/2
Trad
16 Erkerwand
VIIc
Trad
17 Erkerweg
VIIa
Trad
18 Frühlingsreibung
VIIa
Trad
19 Funky Fire (RP)

red point

XIb
Trad
20 Gehackter Weg
VIIa
Trad
21 Grand Funk
IXc
Trad
22 Großer Funke
IXc
Trad
23 Hackebeilchen
III
Trad
24 Hackepeter
III
Trad
25 Hackklotz
III
Trad
26 Jackpot
VIIIb
Trad
27 Kalt und heiß
VIIIb
Trad
28 Kinder,Kinder
VIIa
Trad
29 Märzvariante
VIIIa
Trad
30 Märzvariante zur Südwand
VIIIa
Trad
31 Nebensache
VIIa
Trad
32 Neue Südwand
VIIb
Trad
33 Neuer Nordweg
VIIb
Trad
34 Nordostrinne
VIIc
Trad
35 Nordostrinne (oU)

without support

VIIIa
Trad
36 Nordostweg
VI
Trad
37 Nordwand
IXa
Trad
38 Nordweg
V
Trad
39 Ostende
VIIa
Trad
40 Ostkamin
III
Trad
41 Ostkamin direkt
VIIa
Trad
42 Perry-Smith-Weg
III
Trad
43 Reguläre Nordwand
IXa
Trad
44 Seitenflügel
VIIc
Trad
45 Sieberkante
VIIc
Trad
46 Solaris
IXb
Trad
47 Sommernachtsball
IXa
Trad
48 Stolpener Kante (RP)

red point

Xb
Trad
49 Südostweg
VIIc/2
Trad
50 Südostweg (oU)

without support

VIIIa
Trad
51 Südwand
VIIa
Trad
52 Südweg
VIIa
Trad
53 Umweltkonferenz
VIIc
Trad
54 Variante zum Nordostweg
VIIa
Trad
55 Variante zur Frühlingsreibung
VIIa
Trad
56 Westpfeiler
VIIIc
Trad
57 Westweg
V
Trad
58 Zerstörte Träume (RP)

red point

IXb
Trad