Hello!

First time here?

theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.

You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...

» Go exploring, » Learn more or » Ask us a question

Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
{SX} IXa A & L Trad
2
{SX} IXa Abkürzung Trad
3
{SX} IV Alte Stufen Trad
4
{SX} III Alter Weg Trad
5
{SX} VIIIb Besuch bei Arno Trad
6
{SX} VIIb Bruchholzkante Trad
7
{SX} VIIc Bruchholzkante (oU) Trad

without support

8
{SX} VIIIb Die einfachen Menschen Trad
9
{SX} VIIIb Direkte Südwand Trad
10
{SX} VIIIb Direkter Südostweg Trad
11
{SX} VIIIb Drachenwand Trad
12
{SX} VIIc Ein Frühlingstag Trad
13
{SX} VIIIb Ein Herbsttag Trad
14
{SX} VIIIc Ein Sommertag Trad
15
{SX} VIIa 2 Elbleitenstiege Trad
16
{SX} VIIc Erkerwand Trad
17
{SX} VIIa Erkerweg Trad
18
{SX} VIIa Frühlingsreibung Trad
19
{SX} XIb Funky Fire (RP) Trad

red point

20
{SX} VIIa Gehackter Weg Trad
21
{SX} IXc Grand Funk Trad
22
{SX} IXc Großer Funke Trad
23
{SX} III Hackebeilchen Trad
24
{SX} III Hackepeter Trad
25
{SX} III Hackklotz Trad
26
{SX} VIIIb Jackpot Trad
27
{SX} VIIIb Kalt und heiß Trad
28
{SX} VIIa Kinder,Kinder Trad
29
{SX} VIIIa Märzvariante Trad
30
31
{SX} VIIa Nebensache Trad
32
{SX} VIIb Neue Südwand Trad
33
{SX} VIIb Neuer Nordweg Trad
34
{SX} VIIc Nordostrinne Trad
35
{SX} VIIIa Nordostrinne (oU) Trad

without support

36
{SX} VI Nordostweg Trad
37
{SX} IXa Nordwand Trad
38
{SX} V Nordweg Trad
39
{SX} VIIa Ostende Trad
40
{SX} III Ostkamin Trad
41
{SX} VIIa Ostkamin direkt Trad
42
{SX} III Perry-Smith-Weg Trad
43
{SX} IXa Reguläre Nordwand Trad
44
{SX} VIIc Seitenflügel Trad
45
{SX} VIIc Sieberkante Trad
46
{SX} IXb Solaris Trad
47
{SX} IXa Sommernachtsball Trad
48
{SX} Xb Stolpener Kante (RP) Trad

red point

49
{SX} VIIc 2 Südostweg Trad
50
{SX} VIIIa Südostweg (oU) Trad

without support

51
{SX} VIIa Südwand Trad
52
{SX} VIIa Südweg Trad
53
{SX} VIIc Umweltkonferenz Trad
54
{SX} VIIa Variante zum Nordostweg Trad
56
{SX} VIIIc Westpfeiler Trad
57
{SX} V Westweg Trad
58

red point