A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

anon

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Table of contents

1. Vorderer Torstein 58 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 14.202245, 50.912759

Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 A & L IXaTrad
2 Abkürzung IXaTrad
3 Alte Stufen IVTrad
4 Alter Weg IIITrad
5 Besuch bei Arno VIIIbTrad
6 Bruchholzkante VIIbTrad
7 Bruchholzkante (oU)

without support

VIIcTrad
8 Die einfachen Menschen VIIIbTrad
9 Direkte Südwand VIIIbTrad
10 Direkter Südostweg VIIIbTrad
11 Drachenwand VIIIbTrad
12 Ein Frühlingstag VIIcTrad
13 Ein Herbsttag VIIIbTrad
14 Ein Sommertag VIIIcTrad
15 Elbleitenstiege VIIa/2Trad
16 Erkerwand VIIcTrad
17 Erkerweg VIIaTrad
18 Frühlingsreibung VIIaTrad
19 Funky Fire (RP)

red point

XIbTrad
20 Gehackter Weg VIIaTrad
21 Grand Funk IXcTrad
22 Großer Funke IXcTrad
23 Hackebeilchen IIITrad
24 Hackepeter IIITrad
25 Hackklotz IIITrad
26 Jackpot VIIIbTrad
27 Kalt und heiß VIIIbTrad
28 Kinder,Kinder VIIaTrad
29 Märzvariante VIIIaTrad
30 Märzvariante zur Südwand VIIIaTrad
31 Nebensache VIIaTrad
32 Neue Südwand VIIbTrad
33 Neuer Nordweg VIIbTrad
34 Nordostrinne VIIcTrad
35 Nordostrinne (oU)

without support

VIIIaTrad
36 Nordostweg VITrad
37 Nordwand IXaTrad
38 Nordweg VTrad
39 Ostende VIIaTrad
40 Ostkamin IIITrad
41 Ostkamin direkt VIIaTrad
42 Perry-Smith-Weg IIITrad
43 Reguläre Nordwand IXaTrad
44 Seitenflügel VIIcTrad
45 Sieberkante VIIcTrad
46 Solaris IXbTrad
47 Sommernachtsball IXaTrad
48 Stolpener Kante (RP)

red point

XbTrad
49 Südostweg VIIc/2Trad
50 Südostweg (oU)

without support

VIIIaTrad
51 Südwand VIIaTrad
52 Südweg VIIaTrad
53 Umweltkonferenz VIIcTrad
54 Variante zum Nordostweg VIIaTrad
55 Variante zur Frühlingsreibung VIIaTrad
56 Westpfeiler VIIIcTrad
57 Westweg VTrad
58 Zerstörte Träume (RP)

red point

IXbTrad

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
III Alter Weg Trad
Hackebeilchen Trad
Hackepeter Trad
Hackklotz Trad
Ostkamin Trad
Perry-Smith-Weg Trad
IV Alte Stufen Trad
V Nordweg Trad
Westweg Trad
VI Nordostweg Trad
VIIa Erkerweg Trad
Frühlingsreibung Trad
Gehackter Weg Trad
Kinder,Kinder Trad
Nebensache Trad
Ostende Trad
Ostkamin direkt Trad
Südwand Trad
Südweg Trad
Variante zum Nordostweg Trad
Variante zur Frühlingsreibung Trad
VIIa/2 Elbleitenstiege Trad
VIIb Bruchholzkante Trad
Neue Südwand Trad
Neuer Nordweg Trad
VIIc Bruchholzkante (oU) Trad
Ein Frühlingstag Trad
Erkerwand Trad
Nordostrinne Trad
Seitenflügel Trad
Sieberkante Trad
Umweltkonferenz Trad
VIIc/2 Südostweg Trad
VIIIa Märzvariante Trad
Märzvariante zur Südwand Trad
Nordostrinne (oU) Trad
Südostweg (oU) Trad
VIIIb Besuch bei Arno Trad
Die einfachen Menschen Trad
Direkte Südwand Trad
Direkter Südostweg Trad
Drachenwand Trad
Ein Herbsttag Trad
Jackpot Trad
Kalt und heiß Trad
VIIIc Ein Sommertag Trad
Westpfeiler Trad
IXa A & L Trad
Abkürzung Trad
Nordwand Trad
Reguläre Nordwand Trad
Sommernachtsball Trad
IXb Solaris Trad
Zerstörte Träume (RP) Trad
IXc Grand Funk Trad
Großer Funke Trad
Xb Stolpener Kante (RP) Trad
XIb Funky Fire (RP) Trad