A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Table of contents

1. Vorderer Torstein 58 routes in Cliff

All Trad

Long/Lat: 14.200870, 50.909513

Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 A & L IXa Trad
2 Abkürzung IXa Trad
3 Alte Stufen IV Trad
4 Alter Weg III Trad
5 Besuch bei Arno VIIIb Trad
6 Bruchholzkante VIIb Trad
7 Bruchholzkante (oU)

without support

VIIc Trad
8 Die einfachen Menschen VIIIb Trad
9 Direkte Südwand VIIIb Trad
10 Direkter Südostweg VIIIb Trad
11 Drachenwand VIIIb Trad
12 Ein Frühlingstag VIIc Trad
13 Ein Herbsttag VIIIb Trad
14 Ein Sommertag VIIIc Trad
15 Elbleitenstiege VIIa 2 Trad
16 Erkerwand VIIc Trad
17 Erkerweg VIIa Trad
18 Frühlingsreibung VIIa Trad
19 Funky Fire (RP)

red point

XIb Trad
20 Gehackter Weg VIIa Trad
21 Grand Funk IXc Trad
22 Großer Funke IXc Trad
23 Hackebeilchen III Trad
24 Hackepeter III Trad
25 Hackklotz III Trad
26 Jackpot VIIIb Trad
27 Kalt und heiß VIIIb Trad
28 Kinder,Kinder VIIa Trad
29 Märzvariante VIIIa Trad
30 Märzvariante zur Südwand VIIIa Trad
31 Nebensache VIIa Trad
32 Neue Südwand VIIb Trad
33 Neuer Nordweg VIIb Trad
34 Nordostrinne VIIc Trad
35 Nordostrinne (oU)

without support

VIIIa Trad
36 Nordostweg VI Trad
37 Nordwand IXa Trad
38 Nordweg V Trad
39 Ostende VIIa Trad
40 Ostkamin III Trad
41 Ostkamin direkt VIIa Trad
42 Perry-Smith-Weg III Trad
43 Reguläre Nordwand IXa Trad
44 Seitenflügel VIIc Trad
45 Sieberkante VIIc Trad
46 Solaris IXb Trad
47 Sommernachtsball IXa Trad
48 Stolpener Kante (RP)

red point

Xb Trad
49 Südostweg VIIc 2 Trad
50 Südostweg (oU)

without support

VIIIa Trad
51 Südwand VIIa Trad
52 Südweg VIIa Trad
53 Umweltkonferenz VIIc Trad
54 Variante zum Nordostweg VIIa Trad
55 Variante zur Frühlingsreibung VIIa Trad
56 Westpfeiler VIIIc Trad
57 Westweg V Trad
58 Zerstörte Träume (RP)

red point

IXb Trad

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
III Alter Weg Trad
Hackebeilchen Trad
Hackepeter Trad
Hackklotz Trad
Ostkamin Trad
Perry-Smith-Weg Trad
IV Alte Stufen Trad
V Nordweg Trad
Westweg Trad
VI Nordostweg Trad
VIIa Erkerweg Trad
Frühlingsreibung Trad
Gehackter Weg Trad
Kinder,Kinder Trad
Nebensache Trad
Ostende Trad
Ostkamin direkt Trad
Südwand Trad
Südweg Trad
Variante zum Nordostweg Trad
Variante zur Frühlingsreibung Trad
VIIa/2 Elbleitenstiege Trad
VIIb Bruchholzkante Trad
Neue Südwand Trad
Neuer Nordweg Trad
VIIc Bruchholzkante (oU) Trad
Ein Frühlingstag Trad
Erkerwand Trad
Nordostrinne Trad
Seitenflügel Trad
Sieberkante Trad
Umweltkonferenz Trad
VIIc/2 Südostweg Trad
VIIIa Märzvariante Trad
Märzvariante zur Südwand Trad
Nordostrinne (oU) Trad
Südostweg (oU) Trad
VIIIb Besuch bei Arno Trad
Die einfachen Menschen Trad
Direkte Südwand Trad
Direkter Südostweg Trad
Drachenwand Trad
Ein Herbsttag Trad
Jackpot Trad
Kalt und heiß Trad
VIIIc Ein Sommertag Trad
Westpfeiler Trad
IXa A & L Trad
Abkürzung Trad
Nordwand Trad
Reguläre Nordwand Trad
Sommernachtsball Trad
IXb Solaris Trad
Zerstörte Träume (RP) Trad
IXc Grand Funk Trad
Großer Funke Trad
Xb Stolpener Kante (RP) Trad
XIb Funky Fire (RP) Trad