A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Table of contents

1. Zackenkrone 14 routes in Cliff

All Trad

Long/Lat: 14.200788, 50.910856

Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Alter Weg

FA: Hermann Sattler, Oscar Schuster, 1902

IV Trad
2 Dr. Feelgood (RP)

red point

FA: Thomas Küntscher, 1993

IXa Trad
3 Gipfelstürmerweg

FA: Alfred Loos,H. Geiger,M. Matthäus,F. Gnaß, 1913

VI Trad
4 Knackpunkt

FA: Gunter Hommel,Jürgen Höfer,Joachim Friedrich, 1992

VIIIb Trad
5 Nordvariante

FA: Zorka Prachtelová,Petr Prachtel, 1985

VIIIa Trad
6 Nordwand

FA: Zorka Prachtelová,Petr Prachtel, 1983

VIIIb Trad
7 Nordwestweg

FA: Rudolf Klemm,B. Klemm, E. Rummel, 1914

VIIa Trad
8 Ostkante

FA: Emanuel Strubich,W. Kotz,O. Jüngling, 20th Aug

VIIb Trad
9 Ostkante (oU)

without support

VIIc Trad
10 Südostweg

FA: Zorka Prachtelová,Petr Prachtel, 1985

VIIIa Trad
11 Südvariante

FA: Horst Umlauft,H.Meier, 1980

VIIc Trad
12 Südwand

FA: Jens Weinhold,R. Dreger,A. Weinhold,G. Simon,M. Rütthard, 1985

VIIc Trad
13 Übergangsweg

FA: Wolfgang Kasper,L. Roßner, 8th Aug

V Trad
14 Zentrale Nordwand

FA: Jürgen Höfer,M. Mittasch, 1988

VIIIc Trad

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
IV Alter Weg Trad
V Übergangsweg Trad
VI Gipfelstürmerweg Trad
VIIa Nordwestweg Trad
VIIb Ostkante Trad
VIIc Ostkante (oU) Trad
Südvariante Trad
Südwand Trad
VIIIa Nordvariante Trad
Südostweg Trad
VIIIb Knackpunkt Trad
Nordwand Trad
VIIIc Zentrale Nordwand Trad
IXa Dr. Feelgood (RP) Trad