A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Table of contents

1. Kirnitzschtal 46 routes in Area

All Trad

Long/Lat: 14.201337, 50.928452

Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

1.1. Schweinskopf 9 routes in Cliff


Long/Lat: 14.216733, 50.926646

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Alter Weg IV Trad
2 Alter Weg (oU)

without support

V Trad
3 Einsame Insel IXb Trad
4 Schweinebaumeln IXb Trad
5 Steckdosennase IV Trad
6 Steckdosennase (oU)

without support

VIIb Trad
7 Sülze VIIb Trad
8 Talweg VIIb Trad
9 Westweg V Trad

1.2. Kirnitzschwand 14 routes in Cliff


Long/Lat: 14.187563, 50.925963

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Abendvariante VIIb Trad
2 Alter Weg III Trad
3 Linker Sprung 3 Trad
4 Nordostkante VIIb Trad
5 Rechter Sprung 2 Trad
6 Schartenriß IV Trad
7 Sternschnuppe VIIb Trad
8 Talweg IV Trad
9 Waldfee IXa Trad
10 Waldkauz VIIIb Trad
11 Waldmeister VIIIa Trad
12 Waldschratt VIIb Trad
13 Westweg VIIa Trad
14 Ypsilon VIIIb Trad

1.3. Kladderadatsch 12 routes in Cliff


Long/Lat: 14.187319, 50.925838

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Alter Weg II Trad
2 Duett VIIIa Trad
3 Eiserne Verschneidung VIIa Trad
4 Ostkante V Trad
5 Quartett VIIc Trad
6 Querweg II Trad
7 Schartenriß IV Trad
8 Spektakel IXa Trad
9 Spiel des Bizeps VIIc Trad
10 Waldhäuselkante VIIc Trad
11 Westverschgneidung V Trad
12 Wetterhexe VIIIc Trad

1.4. Kirnitzschturm 11 routes in Cliff


Long/Lat: 14.186300, 50.925810

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Alter Weg III Trad
2 Aus tiefem Tal VIIIc Trad
3 Ein bißchen Sterben VIIIb Trad
4 EV zum Talweg VIIc Trad
5 Gelber Absatz VIIa Trad
6 Kirnitzschbahn VIIb Trad
7 Neuer Weg IV Trad
8 Ostriß VIIc Trad
9 Talweg VIIa Trad
10 über die Hüfte IXc Trad
11 Verbindungsvariante IV Trad

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
II Alter Weg Trad 1.3. Kladderadatsch
Querweg Trad 1.3. Kladderadatsch
III Alter Weg Trad 1.2. Kirnitzschwand
Alter Weg Trad 1.4. Kirnitzschturm
IV Alter Weg Trad 1.1. Schweinskopf
Steckdosennase Trad 1.1. Schweinskopf
Schartenriß Trad 1.2. Kirnitzschwand
Talweg Trad 1.2. Kirnitzschwand
Schartenriß Trad 1.3. Kladderadatsch
Neuer Weg Trad 1.4. Kirnitzschturm
Verbindungsvariante Trad 1.4. Kirnitzschturm
V Alter Weg (oU) Trad 1.1. Schweinskopf
Westweg Trad 1.1. Schweinskopf
Ostkante Trad 1.3. Kladderadatsch
Westverschgneidung Trad 1.3. Kladderadatsch
VIIa Westweg Trad 1.2. Kirnitzschwand
Eiserne Verschneidung Trad 1.3. Kladderadatsch
Gelber Absatz Trad 1.4. Kirnitzschturm
Talweg Trad 1.4. Kirnitzschturm
VIIb Steckdosennase (oU) Trad 1.1. Schweinskopf
Sülze Trad 1.1. Schweinskopf
Talweg Trad 1.1. Schweinskopf
Abendvariante Trad 1.2. Kirnitzschwand
Nordostkante Trad 1.2. Kirnitzschwand
Sternschnuppe Trad 1.2. Kirnitzschwand
Waldschratt Trad 1.2. Kirnitzschwand
Kirnitzschbahn Trad 1.4. Kirnitzschturm
VIIc Quartett Trad 1.3. Kladderadatsch
Spiel des Bizeps Trad 1.3. Kladderadatsch
Waldhäuselkante Trad 1.3. Kladderadatsch
EV zum Talweg Trad 1.4. Kirnitzschturm
Ostriß Trad 1.4. Kirnitzschturm
VIIIa Waldmeister Trad 1.2. Kirnitzschwand
Duett Trad 1.3. Kladderadatsch
VIIIb Waldkauz Trad 1.2. Kirnitzschwand
Ypsilon Trad 1.2. Kirnitzschwand
Ein bißchen Sterben Trad 1.4. Kirnitzschturm
VIIIc Wetterhexe Trad 1.3. Kladderadatsch
Aus tiefem Tal Trad 1.4. Kirnitzschturm
IXa Waldfee Trad 1.2. Kirnitzschwand
Spektakel Trad 1.3. Kladderadatsch
IXb Einsame Insel Trad 1.1. Schweinskopf
Schweinebaumeln Trad 1.1. Schweinskopf
IXc über die Hüfte Trad 1.4. Kirnitzschturm
2 Rechter Sprung Trad 1.2. Kirnitzschwand
3 Linker Sprung Trad 1.2. Kirnitzschwand