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Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Areas

Map Name Style Climbs Ascents Height Grade Band Topos
1Schrammsteinscheibe Cliff All Trad 180
2Golem Cliff All Trad 150
3Schrammsteinnadel Cliff All Trad 150
4Schrammsteinkegel Cliff All Trad 270
5Tante Cliff All Trad 52
6Vorderer Torstein Cliff All Trad 580
7Bergfex Cliff All Trad 244
8Vorderer Torsteinkegel Cliff All Trad 110
9Drohne Cliff All Trad 271
10Zackenkrone Cliff All Trad 140
11Kelch Cliff All Trad 90
12Meurerturm Cliff All Trad 270
13Flasche Cliff All Trad 192
14Max und Moritz Cliff All Trad 173
15Fotografenspitze Cliff All Trad 90
16Östlicher Schrammturm Cliff All Trad 80
17Südlicher Schrammturm Cliff All Trad 120
18Dreifingerturm Cliff All Trad 180
19Kesselturm Cliff All Trad 160
20Schrammtorwächter Cliff All Trad 210
21Nördlicher Schrammturm Cliff All Trad 120
22Mittlerer Torstein Cliff All Trad 903
23Bierdeckel Cliff All Trad 111
24Südlicher Osterturm Cliff All Trad 290
25Ostervorturm Cliff All Trad 170
26Spitzer Turm Cliff All Trad 112
27Unbenannte Spitze Cliff All Trad 80
28Westlicher Schrammturm Cliff All Trad 100
29Schrammtorfreund Cliff All Trad 80
30Nördlicher Osterturm Cliff All Trad 290
31Hoher Torstein Cliff All Trad 1302
32Viererturm Cliff All Trad 220
33Torsteinscheibe Cliff All Trad 90
34Jubiläumsturm Cliff All Trad 130