Area Guide for Gratweg

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Table of contents

1. Gratweg 67 routes in Area

6725341

1 Sonnenspitze, 2 Neptun, 3 Satan, 4 Schrammsteinturm, 5 Säule, 6 Wandwächter, 7 Regenturm

Summary:

All Trad

Long/Lat: 14.212018, 50.909535

Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

• Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
• No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
• No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
• no chalk, no pof
• Sign the summit register.
• Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
• Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
• Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

1.1. Sonnenspitze 16 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Long/Lat: 14.214589, 50.908164

1.2. Neptun 10 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Long/Lat: 14.214659, 50.909543

1.3. Satan 8 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Long/Lat: 14.212809, 50.908835

1.4. Schrammsteinturm 14 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Long/Lat: 14.212837, 50.908352

1.5. Säule 11 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Long/Lat: 14.211575, 50.909465

1.6. Wandwächter 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Long/Lat: 14.211566, 50.910537

1.7. Regenturm 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Long/Lat: 14.211250, 50.910473

2. Index by grade

Grade		Stars	Name	Style	Area
II			Alter Weg	Trad	1.4. Schrammsteinturm
III			Talweg	Trad	1.2. Neptun
			Überfall	Trad	1.2. Neptun
IV			Variante zum Rechtsweg	Trad	1.2. Neptun
			Alter Weg	Trad	1.5. Säule
			Alter Weg	Trad	1.7. Regenturm
V			Abendweg	Trad	1.1. Sonnenspitze
			Föhnweg	Trad	1.1. Sonnenspitze
			Nordwestkante	Trad	1.4. Schrammsteinturm
			Trichter	Trad	1.5. Säule
			Umgehungsvariante	Trad	1.6. Wandwächter
			Schartenkante	Trad	1.7. Regenturm
VI			Alter Weg	Trad	1.1. Sonnenspitze
			Ostkante	Trad	1.4. Schrammsteinturm
			Kantenvariante	Trad	1.5. Säule
			Rißvariante	Trad	1.5. Säule
			Schartenweg	Trad	1.6. Wandwächter
VIIa			Abendweg (oU)	Trad	1.1. Sonnenspitze
			Föhnweg (oU)	Trad	1.1. Sonnenspitze
			Variante zumAlten Weg	Trad	1.1. Sonnenspitze
			Neuer Talweg	Trad	1.2. Neptun
			Rechtsweg	Trad	1.2. Neptun
			Alter Weg	Trad	1.3. Satan
			Neuer Südwestweg	Trad	1.3. Satan
			Satansbraten	Trad	1.3. Satan
			Spreizweg	Trad	1.3. Satan
			Südwestweg	Trad	1.3. Satan
			Aus Protest	Trad	1.4. Schrammsteinturm
			Südostweg	Trad	1.4. Schrammsteinturm
			Talweg	Trad	1.4. Schrammsteinturm
			Westweg	Trad	1.4. Schrammsteinturm
			Alter Weg (oU)	Trad	1.5. Säule
			Rißvariante (oU)	Trad	1.5. Säule
			Talkamin	Trad	1.5. Säule
			schartenwand	Trad	1.5. Säule
VIIb			Schartenwinkel	Trad	1.1. Sonnenspitze
			Südwestweg (oU)	Trad	1.3. Satan
			Talvariante	Trad	1.3. Satan
			Nordostwand	Trad	1.4. Schrammsteinturm
			Variante zur Nordostwand	Trad	1.4. Schrammsteinturm
			Kantenvariante (oU)	Trad	1.5. Säule
VIIc			Westweg	Trad	1.1. Sonnenspitze
			Direkter Südostweg	Trad	1.4. Schrammsteinturm
			Niedliche Verbindung	Trad	1.4. Schrammsteinturm
			Kleine Reiberei	Trad	1.6. Wandwächter
VIIIa			Warikarei	Trad	1.2. Neptun
			Direkter Westweg	Trad	1.4. Schrammsteinturm
			Kleine Bereicherung	Trad	1.4. Schrammsteinturm
			Niedlicher Weg	Trad	1.4. Schrammsteinturm
			Kleine Reiberei (oU)	Trad	1.6. Wandwächter
VIIIb			Talweg	Trad	1.1. Sonnenspitze
			Climb Bambino (RP)	Trad	1.5. Säule
			Marter	Trad	1.6. Wandwächter
VIIIc			Talweg (oU)	Trad	1.1. Sonnenspitze
			Kaskade	Trad	1.2. Neptun
			Nixentanz	Trad	1.2. Neptun
			VomEise befreit....	Trad	1.5. Säule
			Einsamkeit	Trad	1.7. Regenturm
IXa			Sehnsucht nach Sonne	Trad	1.1. Sonnenspitze
IXb			Ein Platz an der Sonne (RP)	Trad	1.1. Sonnenspitze
			Energiequelle	Trad	1.1. Sonnenspitze
			Kalte Sonne	Trad	1.1. Sonnenspitze
			Sonne im Herzen (RP)	Trad	1.1. Sonnenspitze
Xa			Supernova (RP)	Trad	1.1. Sonnenspitze
			Im Banne des Bösen	Trad	1.3. Satan
2			Sprung	Trad	1.2. Neptun
3			Neptunsprung	Trad	1.2. Neptun