A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Warning

Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

anon

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Gratweg 67 routes in Area

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
All Trad

Long/Lat: 14.212018, 50.909535

Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

1.1. Sonnenspitze 16 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Long/Lat: 14.214589, 50.908164

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Abendweg VTrad
2 Abendweg (oU)

without support

VIIaTrad
3 Alter Weg VITrad
4 Ein Platz an der Sonne (RP)

red point

IXbTrad
5 Energiequelle IXbTrad
6 Föhnweg VTrad
7 Föhnweg (oU)

without support

VIIaTrad
8 Kalte Sonne IXbTrad
9 Schartenwinkel VIIbTrad
10 Sehnsucht nach Sonne IXaTrad
11 Sonne im Herzen (RP)

red point

IXbTrad
12 Supernova (RP)

red point

XaTrad
13 Talweg VIIIbTrad
14 Talweg (oU)

without support

VIIIcTrad
15 Variante zumAlten Weg VIIaTrad
16 Westweg VIIcTrad

1.2. Neptun 10 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Long/Lat: 14.214659, 50.909543

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Kaskade VIIIcTrad
2 Neptunsprung 3Trad
3 Neuer Talweg VIIaTrad
4 Nixentanz VIIIcTrad
5 Rechtsweg VIIaTrad
6 Sprung 2Trad
7 Talweg IIITrad
8 Überfall IIITrad
9 Variante zum Rechtsweg IVTrad
10 Warikarei VIIIaTrad

1.3. Satan 8 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Long/Lat: 14.212809, 50.908835

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Alter Weg VIIaTrad
2 Im Banne des Bösen XaTrad
3 Neuer Südwestweg VIIaTrad
4 Satansbraten VIIaTrad
5 Spreizweg VIIaTrad
6 Südwestweg VIIaTrad
7 Südwestweg (oU)

without support

VIIbTrad
8 Talvariante VIIbTrad

1.4. Schrammsteinturm 14 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Long/Lat: 14.212837, 50.908352

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Alter Weg IITrad 25m
2 Aus Protest VIIaTrad
3 Direkter Südostweg VIIcTrad
4 Direkter Westweg VIIIaTrad
5 Kleine Bereicherung VIIIaTrad
6 Niedliche Verbindung VIIcTrad
7 Niedlicher Weg VIIIaTrad
8 Nordostwand VIIbTrad
9 Nordwestkante VTrad
10 Ostkante VIMixed 12m, 1
11 Südostweg VIIaTrad
12 Talweg VIIaTrad
13 Variante zur Nordostwand VIIbTrad
14 Westweg VIIaTrad

1.5. Säule 11 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Long/Lat: 14.211575, 50.909465

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Alter Weg IVTrad
2 Alter Weg (oU)

without support

VIIaTrad
3 Climb Bambino (RP)

red point

VIIIbTrad
4 Kantenvariante VITrad
5 Kantenvariante (oU)

without support

VIIbTrad
6 Rißvariante VITrad
7 Rißvariante (oU)

without support

VIIaTrad
8 schartenwand VIIaTrad
9 Talkamin VIIaTrad
10 Trichter VTrad
11 VomEise befreit.... VIIIcTrad

1.6. Wandwächter 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Long/Lat: 14.211566, 50.910537

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Kleine Reiberei VIIcTrad
2 Kleine Reiberei (oU)

without support

VIIIaTrad
3 Marter VIIIbTrad
4 Schartenweg VITrad
5 Umgehungsvariante VTrad

1.7. Regenturm 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Long/Lat: 14.211250, 50.910473

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Alter Weg IVTrad
2 Einsamkeit VIIIcTrad
3 Schartenkante VTrad

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
II Alter Weg Trad 25m 1.4. Schrammsteinturm
III Talweg Trad 1.2. Neptun
Überfall Trad 1.2. Neptun
IV Variante zum Rechtsweg Trad 1.2. Neptun
Alter Weg Trad 1.5. Säule
Alter Weg Trad 1.7. Regenturm
V Abendweg Trad 1.1. Sonnenspitze
Föhnweg Trad 1.1. Sonnenspitze
Nordwestkante Trad 1.4. Schrammsteinturm
Trichter Trad 1.5. Säule
Umgehungsvariante Trad 1.6. Wandwächter
Schartenkante Trad 1.7. Regenturm
VI Alter Weg Trad 1.1. Sonnenspitze
Ostkante Mixed 12m, 1 1.4. Schrammsteinturm
Kantenvariante Trad 1.5. Säule
Rißvariante Trad 1.5. Säule
Schartenweg Trad 1.6. Wandwächter
VIIa Abendweg (oU) Trad 1.1. Sonnenspitze
Föhnweg (oU) Trad 1.1. Sonnenspitze
Variante zumAlten Weg Trad 1.1. Sonnenspitze
Neuer Talweg Trad 1.2. Neptun
Rechtsweg Trad 1.2. Neptun
Alter Weg Trad 1.3. Satan
Neuer Südwestweg Trad 1.3. Satan
Satansbraten Trad 1.3. Satan
Spreizweg Trad 1.3. Satan
Südwestweg Trad 1.3. Satan
Aus Protest Trad 1.4. Schrammsteinturm
Südostweg Trad 1.4. Schrammsteinturm
Talweg Trad 1.4. Schrammsteinturm
Westweg Trad 1.4. Schrammsteinturm
Alter Weg (oU) Trad 1.5. Säule
Rißvariante (oU) Trad 1.5. Säule
Talkamin Trad 1.5. Säule
schartenwand Trad 1.5. Säule
VIIb Schartenwinkel Trad 1.1. Sonnenspitze
Südwestweg (oU) Trad 1.3. Satan
Talvariante Trad 1.3. Satan
Nordostwand Trad 1.4. Schrammsteinturm
Variante zur Nordostwand Trad 1.4. Schrammsteinturm
Kantenvariante (oU) Trad 1.5. Säule
VIIc Westweg Trad 1.1. Sonnenspitze
Direkter Südostweg Trad 1.4. Schrammsteinturm
Niedliche Verbindung Trad 1.4. Schrammsteinturm
Kleine Reiberei Trad 1.6. Wandwächter
VIIIa Warikarei Trad 1.2. Neptun
Direkter Westweg Trad 1.4. Schrammsteinturm
Kleine Bereicherung Trad 1.4. Schrammsteinturm
Niedlicher Weg Trad 1.4. Schrammsteinturm
Kleine Reiberei (oU) Trad 1.6. Wandwächter
VIIIb Talweg Trad 1.1. Sonnenspitze
Climb Bambino (RP) Trad 1.5. Säule
Marter Trad 1.6. Wandwächter
VIIIc Talweg (oU) Trad 1.1. Sonnenspitze
Kaskade Trad 1.2. Neptun
Nixentanz Trad 1.2. Neptun
VomEise befreit.... Trad 1.5. Säule
Einsamkeit Trad 1.7. Regenturm
IXa Sehnsucht nach Sonne Trad 1.1. Sonnenspitze
IXb Ein Platz an der Sonne (RP) Trad 1.1. Sonnenspitze
Energiequelle Trad 1.1. Sonnenspitze
Kalte Sonne Trad 1.1. Sonnenspitze
Sonne im Herzen (RP) Trad 1.1. Sonnenspitze
Xa Supernova (RP) Trad 1.1. Sonnenspitze
Im Banne des Bösen Trad 1.3. Satan
2 Sprung Trad 1.2. Neptun
3 Neptunsprung Trad 1.2. Neptun