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Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Areas

Map Name Style Climbs Ascents Height Grade Band Topos
1Buschholzturm Cliff All Trad 70
2Bergfalkenturm Cliff All Trad 130
3Einsamer Turm Cliff All Trad 80
4Versteckte Spitze Cliff All Trad 100
5Zwölfer Cliff All Trad 160
6Höllengrundscheibe Cliff All Trad 90
7Steinerner Bär Cliff All Trad 70
8Tümpelgrundwächter Cliff All Trad 60
9Tümpelgrundturm Cliff All Trad 70
10Gelbe Wand Cliff All Trad 110
11Kehllochscheibe Cliff All Trad 80
12Tümpelgrundwand Cliff All Trad 341
13Erikascheibe Cliff All Trad 81
14Wetterwarte Cliff All Trad 172
15Elbgucke Cliff All Trad 241
16Griesgrundwächter Cliff All Trad 161
17Buch Cliff All Trad 130
18Postakegel Cliff All Trad 70

Open trips

There are no open trips for this crag

Learn about trips.