Site navigation

Grade search

Leaderboard

Instant PDF

KML KML

Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 Alter Weg
IV
Trad
2 Aquaplaning
VIIIc
Trad
3 Asterix und Obelix
Xa
Trad
4 Elbweg
IV
Trad
5 Hohe Kante
VIIa
Trad
6 Hohe Kante (oU)

without support

VIIc
Trad
7 Hoher Kamin
IV
Trad
8 Kiefernvariante
IV
Trad
9 Limes (RP)

red point

Xa
Trad
10 Meteorit
IXa
Trad
11 Mure
VIIIb
Trad
12 Nordostwand
V
Trad
13 Ostwinkel
V
Trad
14 Schartenweg
VI
Trad
15 Schleudergefahr
IXa
Trad
16 Schwarzer Kamin
IV
Trad
17 S-Kurve
VIIa
Trad
18 Sommerweg (RP)

red point

VIIc
Trad
19 Spielplatz im Hinterhof
VIIa
Trad
20 Spielplatz im Hinterhof (oU)

without support

VIIb
Trad
21 Umleitung
VIIa
Trad
22 Wand im Hinterhof
VIIb
Trad
23 Winkelkante
VIIc
Trad
24 Winkelriß
IV
Trad