A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Warning

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

anon

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Elbgucke 24 routes in Cliff

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
All Trad

Long/Lat: 14.058446, 50.961253

Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Alter Weg IVTrad
2 Aquaplaning VIIIcTrad
3 Asterix und Obelix XaTrad
4 Elbweg IVTrad
5 Hohe Kante VIIaTrad
6 Hohe Kante (oU)

without support

VIIcTrad
7 Hoher Kamin IVTrad
8 Kiefernvariante IVTrad
9 Limes (RP)

red point

XaTrad
10 Meteorit IXaTrad
11 Mure VIIIbTrad
12 Nordostwand VTrad
13 Ostwinkel VTrad
14 Schartenweg VITrad
15 Schleudergefahr IXaTrad
16 Schwarzer Kamin IVTrad
17 S-Kurve VIIaTrad
18 Sommerweg (RP)

red point

VIIcTrad
19 Spielplatz im Hinterhof VIIaTrad
20 Spielplatz im Hinterhof (oU)

without support

VIIbTrad
21 Umleitung VIIaTrad
22 Wand im Hinterhof VIIbTrad
23 Winkelkante VIIcTrad
24 Winkelriß IVTrad

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
IV Alter Weg Trad
Elbweg Trad
Hoher Kamin Trad
Kiefernvariante Trad
Schwarzer Kamin Trad
Winkelriß Trad
V Nordostwand Trad
Ostwinkel Trad
VI Schartenweg Trad
VIIa Hohe Kante Trad
S-Kurve Trad
Spielplatz im Hinterhof Trad
Umleitung Trad
VIIb Spielplatz im Hinterhof (oU) Trad
Wand im Hinterhof Trad
VIIc Hohe Kante (oU) Trad
Sommerweg (RP) Trad
Winkelkante Trad
VIIIb Mure Trad
VIIIc Aquaplaning Trad
IXa Meteorit Trad
Schleudergefahr Trad
Xa Asterix und Obelix Trad
Limes (RP) Trad