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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
2
SX I Alter Weg Trad
3
SX VI Birkenwand Trad
4
SX VIIa Direkte Südwestwand Trad
5
SX VIIa Direkte Westkante Trad
7

without support

8
SX VIIb Gerade Südwestwand Trad
9
SX Xa Glasur (RP) Trad

red point

10
SX IV Grasweg Trad
12
SX VIIa Langer Grashalm Trad
14
SX VIIb Miniwand Trad
15
SX VIIb Neue Südwestwand Trad
16
SX V Nordostweg Trad
17
SX VIIa Nordwand Trad
18
SX II Nordwestkamin Trad
19
SX VI Ostkante Trad
20
SX VIIIa Putzfimmel Trad
21
SX VI Putzwand Trad
22
SX IV Regenkante Trad
23
SX VIIIa Rosenmontag Trad
24
SX IV Sanduhrweg Trad
25
SX II Schartenweg Trad
26
SX VI Südostweg Trad
27
SX VI Südwestwand Trad
28
SX VIIa Südwestwand (oU) Trad

without support

29

red point

30
SX VIIa Tümpelkröte Trad
31
SX VIIb Urzustand Trad
32
34
SX VI/1 Westkante Trad