A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Table of contents

1. Tümpelgrundwand 34 routes in Cliff

All Trad

Long/Lat: 14.057757, 50.960931

Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Abschied vom Tümpelgrund {SX} VIIa Trad
2 Alter Weg {SX} I Trad
3 Birkenwand {SX} VI Trad
4 Direkte Südwestwand {SX} VIIa Trad
5 Direkte Westkante {SX} VIIa Trad
6 Erwähnung zur Südwestwand {SX} VI Trad
7 Erwähnung zur Südwestwand (oU)

without support

{SX} VIIa Trad
8 Gerade Südwestwand {SX} VIIb Trad
9 Glasur (RP)

red point

{SX} Xa Trad
10 Grasweg {SX} IV Trad
11 Herrenpartie mit Schuß {SX} VIIb Trad
12 Langer Grashalm {SX} VIIa Trad
13 Minivariante zur Miniwand {SX} VIIb Trad
14 Miniwand {SX} VIIb Trad
15 Neue Südwestwand {SX} VIIb Trad
16 Nordostweg {SX} V Trad
17 Nordwand {SX} VIIa Trad
18 Nordwestkamin {SX} II Trad
19 Ostkante {SX} VI Trad
20 Putzfimmel {SX} VIIIa Trad
21 Putzwand {SX} VI Trad
22 Regenkante {SX} IV Trad
23 Rosenmontag {SX} VIIIa Trad
24 Sanduhrweg {SX} IV Trad
25 Schartenweg {SX} II Trad
26 Südostweg {SX} VI Trad
27 Südwestwand {SX} VI Trad
28 Südwestwand (oU)

without support

{SX} VIIa Trad
29 Tümpelgrundwand (RP)

red point

{SX} VIIb Trad
30 Tümpelkröte {SX} VIIa Trad
31 Urzustand {SX} VIIb Trad
32 Variante zum Grasweg {SX} III Trad
33 Variante zurWestkante {SX} VI Trad
34 Westkante {SX} VI 1 Trad

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
I Alter Weg Trad
II Nordwestkamin Trad
Schartenweg Trad
III Variante zum Grasweg Trad
IV Grasweg Trad
Regenkante Trad
Sanduhrweg Trad
V Nordostweg Trad
VI Birkenwand Trad
Erwähnung zur Südwestwand Trad
Ostkante Trad
Putzwand Trad
Südostweg Trad
Südwestwand Trad
Variante zurWestkante Trad
VI/1 Westkante Trad
VIIa Abschied vom Tümpelgrund Trad
Direkte Südwestwand Trad
Direkte Westkante Trad
Erwähnung zur Südwestwand (oU) Trad
Langer Grashalm Trad
Nordwand Trad
Südwestwand (oU) Trad
Tümpelkröte Trad
VIIb Gerade Südwestwand Trad
Herrenpartie mit Schuß Trad
Minivariante zur Miniwand Trad
Miniwand Trad
Neue Südwestwand Trad
Tümpelgrundwand (RP) Trad
Urzustand Trad
VIIIa Putzfimmel Trad
Rosenmontag Trad
Xa Glasur (RP) Trad