A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

anon

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Tümpelgrundwand 34 routes in Cliff

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
All Trad

Long/Lat: 14.057757, 50.960931

Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Abschied vom Tümpelgrund VIIaTrad
2 Alter Weg ITrad
3 Birkenwand VITrad
4 Direkte Südwestwand VIIaTrad
5 Direkte Westkante VIIaTrad
6 Erwähnung zur Südwestwand VITrad
7 Erwähnung zur Südwestwand (oU)

without support

VIIaTrad
8 Gerade Südwestwand VIIbTrad
9 Glasur (RP)

red point

XaTrad
10 Grasweg IVTrad
11 Herrenpartie mit Schuß VIIbTrad
12 Langer Grashalm VIIaTrad
13 Minivariante zur Miniwand VIIbTrad
14 Miniwand VIIbTrad
15 Neue Südwestwand VIIbTrad
16 Nordostweg VTrad
17 Nordwand VIIaTrad
18 Nordwestkamin IITrad
19 Ostkante VITrad
20 Putzfimmel VIIIaTrad
21 Putzwand VITrad
22 Regenkante IVTrad
23 Rosenmontag VIIIaTrad
24 Sanduhrweg IVTrad
25 Schartenweg IITrad
26 Südostweg VITrad
27 Südwestwand VITrad
28 Südwestwand (oU)

without support

VIIaTrad
29 Tümpelgrundwand (RP)

red point

VIIbTrad
30 Tümpelkröte VIIaTrad
31 Urzustand VIIbTrad
32 Variante zum Grasweg IIITrad
33 Variante zurWestkante VITrad
34 Westkante VI/1Trad

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
I Alter Weg Trad
II Nordwestkamin Trad
Schartenweg Trad
III Variante zum Grasweg Trad
IV Grasweg Trad
Regenkante Trad
Sanduhrweg Trad
V Nordostweg Trad
VI Birkenwand Trad
Erwähnung zur Südwestwand Trad
Ostkante Trad
Putzwand Trad
Südostweg Trad
Südwestwand Trad
Variante zurWestkante Trad
VI/1 Westkante Trad
VIIa Abschied vom Tümpelgrund Trad
Direkte Südwestwand Trad
Direkte Westkante Trad
Erwähnung zur Südwestwand (oU) Trad
Langer Grashalm Trad
Nordwand Trad
Südwestwand (oU) Trad
Tümpelkröte Trad
VIIb Gerade Südwestwand Trad
Herrenpartie mit Schuß Trad
Minivariante zur Miniwand Trad
Miniwand Trad
Neue Südwestwand Trad
Tümpelgrundwand (RP) Trad
Urzustand Trad
VIIIa Putzfimmel Trad
Rosenmontag Trad
Xa Glasur (RP) Trad