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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
VIIc Abendstimmung Trad
2
VIIc Abseilspuren Trad
3
I Alter Weg Trad
4

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5
III Aprilweg Trad
6
VIIa Auf und ab Trad
7
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VIIc Bierbauch Trad
10
V Birkenkante Trad
12
VIIb Bis zum Gipfel Trad
13
Xa Blaue Lagune Trad
14
VIIIc Blaue Schwerter Trad
15
VIIb Bleib hier Trad
16
VIIIc Blitzschlag (RP) Trad

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17
VIIIa Braunhedel Trad
18
VIIIc Buchecker Trad
19
VIIIa Buchenkante Trad
20
VIIIb Buchenkante (oU) Trad

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21

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22
IXa Cachete Trad
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30
VIIIb Eisbein Trad
31
VIIa Fahriante Trad
32
IXb Feine Konturen Trad
33
VIIIc Fettpolster Trad
34
VIIa Folge mir Trad
36
VIIc Freuentanz Trad
37
VIIb Frühe Freuden Trad
38
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VIIc Gedankenspiel Trad
42
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VIIIb Gipfeltreffen Trad
44
VIIIa Glücksritter Trad
45
VIIc Good bye Winter Trad
46
Xa Grauer Star Trad
47

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48
49

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51
VIIIa Hakuna Matata Trad
52
VIIIa Heiße Reibung Trad
53
VIIIa Helden wie wir Trad
54
III Herbstkamin Trad
55
II Hoher Kamin Trad
56
II Höhlenweg Trad
57
VI Horzelstiege Trad
58
IXa Hund und Sau Trad
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II Jägerpfad Trad
61
VI Jukulele Trad
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VIIc Keramikwand Trad
65
VIIb Kleine Wand Trad
66

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67
VIIa Komm wieder Trad
68
VIIIc Kraftprobe Trad
69
VIIc Krauterwand Trad
70

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71
VIIb Lachparade Trad
72
VIIc Lahrziefensteig Trad
73
IXa Landblick (RP) Trad

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75
VIIc Lendchen Trad
78

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80
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VIIa Neue Westwand Trad
82
VIIb Neuer Südriß Trad
83
VIIIa Neues Glück Trad
84
VIIIb Neujahrsgruß Trad
85
VIIb Nischenwand Trad
86
II Nordkamin Trad
88
VIIc Nummer 3 Trad
89
II Oktoberweg Trad
90
III Ostkamin Trad
91
III Ostriß Trad
92
VIIa Ostwand Trad
93
III Ostweg Trad
94
VIIa Panoramapfeiler Trad
95
V Pfeilerweg Trad
96
97
VIIb Pfingstausklang Trad
98
VIIa Porzellanwand Trad
100
VIIIb Rochade Trad
101
VIIb Sachsenschwert Trad
102
VIIb Sachsenweg Trad
103
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VIIa Schattenrisse Trad
105
VIIb Scherbelladen Trad
106
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II Schluchtweg Trad
108
VIIIa Schlußpunkt (RP) Trad

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110
VIIIb Schweinsrippe Trad
111

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112
IXa Separee (RP) Trad

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113
III Septemberweg Trad
114
VIIb Sommerwand Trad
115
VIIIb Sonnenstrahl (RP) Trad

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116
VIIc Sonnenwand Trad
117
VIIIb Späte Freuden Trad
118
VIIIa Spur N Trad
119
VIIIb Stein und Flöte Trad
120
VIIc Stiller Weg Trad
121
VIIc Stumpfe Kante Trad
122
II Südkamin Trad
123
II Südostkamin Trad
124
VI Südriß Trad
125
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VIIa Südwand Trad
127
II Südweg Trad
128
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VIIa Thüringer Weg Trad
130
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VI Vaters Tip Trad
134
136

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137
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VIIb Weg überm Baum Trad
139
Xa Weißer Tag Trad
140
VI Westkante Trad
141
VI Westwand Trad
142
III Westweg Trad
143
I Wildwechsel Trad
144
IV Winkelweg Trad
145
II Winterroute Trad
146
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VI Zschandblick Trad
149
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