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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Descent Notes

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
I Alter Weg Trad 20m

Enger Kamin / Sandrutsche in der Mitte der Südwestseite. Keine Sicherungsmöglichkeiten, sind aber auch nicht nötig - kleine Kinder können direkt im Sand hochlaufen. Auch gut zum Abstieg geeignet.

4
VIIb Zwischenlösung Trad
5

red point

6
V Südwestweg Trad
7
VIIc Heumond Trad
9

without support

10
VIIc Karawane Trad
11
V Urlaubsweg Trad
14
V Westkante Trad
15

without support

16
II Westkamin Trad
17
VI Westwand Trad
18
VIIa Westwand (oU) Trad

without support

19
VIIc Mäusejagd Trad
20
VIIa Juliweg Trad
22
VIIb Saubermann Trad
23
II Nordweg Trad

FFA: H. Pflicke & D. Paul, 1955

24
25
III Nordkamin Trad
27

red point

30
VIIb Schwarzer Riß Trad
31
VIIIb Schwarze Kante Trad
33

red point

39
Xb Huskies (RP) Trad

red point

42

red point

43
VIIc Nordkante Trad
44
VIIc Nordstern Trad
45
VI Brüderweg Trad
47
IXb Experiment Trad
48
VIIc Herbstwanderung Trad
49
VIIb Praline Trad
51
VIIIb Zeitenwandel Trad
52
VI Winkelriß Trad
53
IXa Handicap Trad
54
55
VIIIb Das War's Trad
56
57
VIIIc Replay Trad
58
VIIa Ostriß Trad
59
VIIIc Gelbe Platte Trad
60
VIIa Sonnenwendweg Trad
61
VIIIb Pferderücken Trad
63

red point

64
VIIIb * Mittelsenkrechte Trad
66
VIIIa Gelber Ausbruch Trad
67
VIIIb Bunter Weg Trad
68
VIIc Gelbe Wand Trad
69
VIIIb Lorenzbogen Trad
70

red point

71
VIIIa Williamsbirne Trad
72

red point

73
VIIc Traumreise Trad
74
VIIIa Softeismann (RP) Trad

red point

75

red point

76
VI Südostwand Trad
78
VIIc Dir.Südostwand Trad
79
VIIIc Himbeergeist (RP) Trad

red point

80

red point

81
VIIIa Express Trad
82
VIIIb Wüstenexpreß Trad
83
IXb Wilde Kirschen Trad
84
VIIc Davidpfad Trad
85
VIIIa Weg in der Mitte Trad
86
VIIIa Weg der Mitte Trad
87
VIIIc Reiseflop Trad
88
VI SO-Wand Trad
89
VIIIc Plewen Trad
90
VIIb Schräger Riss Trad
91
VI Südwand Trad
92

red point

94
VI Südecke Trad
95
VIIb Südecke (oU) Trad

without support

96
IV * Südweg Trad
97
VIIb Über die Box Trad
98
VIIc *** Lotlinie (RP) Trad

red point

99
VIIc Grauer Weg Trad
100
VIIc Sonnenallee Trad
101
VIIc Abendweg Trad
102
VIIc Morgenwand Trad
103
VIIIc Mittagsschlaf Trad
104
VIIIa Vormittagsweg Trad
105
VIIc Kurze Gerade Trad
106
VIIb Juniweg Trad
107
VIIIb Kompaktklasse Trad
108
VIIIa Blitzidee (RP) Trad

red point

109
VIIIc Eröffnung Trad
110
XIb Projekt Trad

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