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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
SX VIIc Abendweg Trad
2
SX I Alter Weg Trad
3
SX VIIIa Blitzidee (RP) Trad

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4
SX VI Brüderweg Trad
5
SX VIIIb Bunter Weg Trad
6
SX VIIIb Das War's Trad
7
SX VIIc Davidpfad Trad
8
SX VIIc Dir.Südostwand Trad
9
SX VIIa Direkt in den Urlaub Trad
10
11
SX VIIc Direkte Südostwand Trad
13
SX VIIa Direkter Urlaubsweg Trad
14
SX VIIIa Dreckschleuder (RP) Trad

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15
SX VIIIc Eröffnung Trad
16
SX IXb Experiment Trad
17
SX VIIIa Express Trad
18
19
SX IXa Franken Life (RP) Trad

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20
SX VIIIa Freiheitsambitionen Trad
21
SX VIIIc Gelbe Platte Trad
22
SX VIIc Gelbe Wand Trad
23
SX VIIIa Gelber Ausbruch Trad
24
SX VIIc Grauer Weg Trad
25

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26
SX IXa Handicap Trad
27
SX VIIIa Heidelbeerkönig (RP) Trad

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28
SX VIIc Herbstwanderung Trad
29
SX VIIc Heumond Trad
30
SX VIIIc Himbeergeist (RP) Trad

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31
32

without support

33
SX Xb Huskies (RP) Trad

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34

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35
SX VIIa Juliweg Trad
36
SX VIIb Juniweg Trad
38
SX VIIc Karawane Trad
39
SX VIIb Kinder an die Macht Trad
40
SX IXb Kleinkanada (RP) Trad

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41
SX IXa Kleinkanada direkt Trad
42
SX VIIIb Kompaktklasse Trad
43
SX VIIc Kurze Gerade Trad
44
SX I Leichter Weg Trad
45
SX III Linker Winkelweg Trad
46
SX VIIIb Lorenzbogen Trad
47
SX VIIc Lotlinie (RP) Trad

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48
SX VIIc Mäusejagd Trad
49
SX VIIIc Mittagsschlaf Trad
50
SX VIIIb Mittelsenkrechte Trad
51
SX VIIc Morgenwand Trad
54
55
SX III Nordkamin Trad
56
SX VIIc Nordkante Trad
57
SX VIIc Nordstern Trad
58
SX IV Nordverschneidung Trad
59
SX VIIa Ostriß Trad
60

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61
SX VIIIb Pferderücken Trad
62
SX VIIIc Plewen Trad
63
SX VIIb Praline Trad
64
SX XIb Projekt Trad
65
SX IV Rechter Winkelweg Trad
66
SX VIIIc Reiseflop Trad
67
SX VIIIc Replay Trad
68
SX VIIb Saubermann Trad
69
SX VIIb Schräger Riss Trad
70
SX VIIIb Schwarze Kante Trad
71
SX VIIb Schwarzer Riß Trad
73
SX VIIIb Siebenschläfer (RP) Trad

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74
SX VIIIa Softeismann (RP) Trad

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75
SX VIIc Sonnenallee Trad
76
SX VIIa Sonnenwendweg Trad
77
SX VI SO-Wand Trad
78
SX VIIIb Stimmungswechsel (RP) Trad

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79
SX VI Südecke Trad
80
SX VIIb Südecke (oU) Trad

without support

81
SX VI Südostwand Trad
82
SX VI Südwand Trad
83
SX IV Südweg Trad
84
SX V Südwestweg Trad
85
SX VIIc Traumreise Trad
86
SX VIIb Über die Box Trad
87
SX V Urlaubsweg Trad
91
SX VIIIa Vormittagsweg Trad
92
SX VIIIa Weg der Mitte Trad
93
SX IV Weg für Gerta Trad
94
SX VIIIa Weg in der Mitte Trad
95
SX II Westkamin Trad
96
SX V Westkante Trad
97
SX VI Westkante (oU) Trad

without support

98
SX VI Westwand Trad
99
SX VIIa Westwand (oU) Trad

without support

100
SX IXb Wilde Kirschen Trad
101
SX VIIIa Williamsbirne Trad
102
SX VI Winkelriß Trad
103
104
SX VIIIb Wüstenexpreß Trad
105
SX VIIIb Zeitenwandel Trad
108
SX VIIc Zwischenlösung (RP) Trad

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