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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
{SX} VIIc Abendweg Trad
2
{SX} I Alter Weg Trad
3
{SX} VIIIa Blitzidee (RP) Trad

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4
{SX} VI Brüderweg Trad
5
{SX} VIIIb Bunter Weg Trad
6
{SX} VIIIb Das War's Trad
7
{SX} VIIc Davidpfad Trad
8
{SX} VIIc Dir.Südostwand Trad
9
{SX} VIIa Direkt in den Urlaub Trad
10
{SX} VIIIb Direkte Schwarze Kante Trad
11
{SX} VIIc Direkte Südostwand Trad
13
{SX} VIIa Direkter Urlaubsweg Trad
14
{SX} VIIIa Dreckschleuder (RP) Trad

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15
{SX} VIIIc Eröffnung Trad
16
{SX} IXb Experiment Trad
17
{SX} VIIIa Express Trad
18
{SX} VIIIb Franken grüßt Sachsen Trad
19
{SX} IXa Franken Life (RP) Trad

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20
{SX} VIIIa Freiheitsambitionen Trad
21
{SX} VIIIc Gelbe Platte Trad
22
{SX} VIIc Gelbe Wand Trad
23
{SX} VIIIa Gelber Ausbruch Trad
24
{SX} VIIc Grauer Weg Trad
25
{SX} IXb Grünes Karree (RP) Trad

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26
{SX} IXa Handicap Trad
27
{SX} VIIIa Heidelbeerkönig (RP) Trad

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28
{SX} VIIc Herbstwanderung Trad
29
{SX} VIIc Heumond Trad
30
{SX} VIIIc Himbeergeist (RP) Trad

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31
{SX} VIIa Hinterhermsdorfer Weg Trad
32

without support

33
{SX} Xb Huskies (RP) Trad

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34

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35
{SX} VIIa Juliweg Trad
36
{SX} VIIb Juniweg Trad
37
38
{SX} VIIc Karawane Trad
39
{SX} VIIb Kinder an die Macht Trad
40
{SX} IXb Kleinkanada (RP) Trad

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41
{SX} IXa Kleinkanada direkt Trad
42
{SX} VIIIb Kompaktklasse Trad
43
{SX} VIIc Kurze Gerade Trad
44
{SX} I Leichter Weg Trad
45
{SX} III Linker Winkelweg Trad
46
{SX} VIIIb Lorenzbogen Trad
47
{SX} VIIc Lotlinie (RP) Trad

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48
{SX} VIIc Mäusejagd Trad
49
{SX} VIIIc Mittagsschlaf Trad
50
{SX} VIIIb Mittelsenkrechte Trad
51
{SX} VIIc Morgenwand Trad
53
54
{SX} V Neuer Südwestweg Trad
55
{SX} III Nordkamin Trad
56
{SX} VIIc Nordkante Trad
57
{SX} VIIc Nordstern Trad
58
{SX} IV Nordverschneidung Trad
59
{SX} VIIa Ostriß Trad
60
{SX} VIIIb Pfefferminzhimmel (RP) Trad

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61
{SX} VIIIb Pferderücken Trad
62
{SX} VIIIc Plewen Trad
63
{SX} VIIb Praline Trad
64
{SX} XIb Projekt Trad
65
{SX} IV Rechter Winkelweg Trad
66
{SX} VIIIc Reiseflop Trad
67
{SX} VIIIc Replay Trad
68
{SX} VIIb Saubermann Trad
69
{SX} VIIb Schräger Riss Trad
70
{SX} VIIIb Schwarze Kante Trad
71
{SX} VIIb Schwarzer Riß Trad
72
{SX} IXa Sieben Sommersprossen Trad
73
{SX} VIIIb Siebenschläfer (RP) Trad

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74
{SX} VIIIa Softeismann (RP) Trad

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75
{SX} VIIc Sonnenallee Trad
76
{SX} VIIa Sonnenwendweg Trad
77
{SX} VI SO-Wand Trad
78
{SX} VIIIb Stimmungswechsel (RP) Trad

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79
{SX} VI Südecke Trad
80
{SX} VIIb Südecke (oU) Trad

without support

81
{SX} VI Südostwand Trad
82
{SX} VI Südwand Trad
83
{SX} IV Südweg Trad
84
{SX} V Südwestweg Trad
85
{SX} VIIc Traumreise Trad
86
{SX} VIIb Über die Box Trad
87
{SX} V Urlaubsweg Trad
90
91
{SX} VIIIa Vormittagsweg Trad
92
{SX} VIIIa Weg der Mitte Trad
93
{SX} IV Weg für Gerta Trad
94
{SX} VIIIa Weg in der Mitte Trad
95
{SX} II Westkamin Trad
96
{SX} V Westkante Trad
97
{SX} VI Westkante (oU) Trad

without support

98
{SX} VI Westwand Trad
99
{SX} VIIa Westwand (oU) Trad

without support

100
{SX} IXb Wilde Kirschen Trad
101
{SX} VIIIa Williamsbirne Trad
102
{SX} VI Winkelriß Trad
103
{SX} VIIb Wir können auch anders Trad
104
{SX} VIIIb Wüstenexpreß Trad
105
{SX} VIIIb Zeitenwandel Trad
108
{SX} VIIc Zwischenlösung (RP) Trad

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