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Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 Abendweg
VIIc
Trad
2 Alter Weg
I
Trad
3 Blitzidee (RP)

red point

VIIIa
Trad
4 Brüderweg
VI
Trad
5 Bunter Weg
VIIIb
Trad
6 Das War's
VIIIb
Trad
7 Davidpfad
VIIc
Trad
8 Dir.Südostwand
VIIc
Trad
9 Direkt in den Urlaub
VIIa
Trad
10 Direkte Schwarze Kante
VIIIb
Trad
11 Direkte Südostwand
VIIc
Trad
12 Direkter Kanadischer Frühling
IXb
Trad
13 Direkter Urlaubsweg
VIIa
Trad
14 Dreckschleuder (RP)

red point

VIIIa
Trad
15 Eröffnung
VIIIc
Trad
16 Experiment
IXb
Trad
17 Express
VIIIa
Trad
18 Franken grüßt Sachsen
VIIIb
Trad
19 Franken Life (RP)

red point

IXa
Trad
20 Freiheitsambitionen
VIIIa
Trad
21 Gelbe Platte
VIIIc
Trad
22 Gelbe Wand
VIIc
Trad
23 Gelber Ausbruch
VIIIa
Trad
24 Grauer Weg
VIIc
Trad
25 Grünes Karree (RP)

red point

IXb
Trad
26 Handicap
IXa
Trad
27 Heidelbeerkönig (RP)

red point

VIIIa
Trad
28 Herbstwanderung
VIIc
Trad
29 Heumond
VIIc
Trad
30 Himbeergeist (RP)

red point

VIIIc
Trad
31 Hinterhermsdorfer Weg
VIIa
Trad
32 Hinterhermsdorfer Weg (oU)

without support

VIIb
Trad
33 Huskies (RP)

red point

Xb
Trad
34 Im Traum nach Kanada (RP)

red point

IXc
Trad
35 Juliweg
VIIa
Trad
36 Juniweg
VIIb
Trad
37 Kanadischer Frühling
Xa
Trad
38 Karawane
VIIc
Trad
39 Kinder an die Macht
VIIb
Trad
40 Kleinkanada (RP)

red point

IXb
Trad
41 Kleinkanada direkt
IXa
Trad
42 Kompaktklasse
VIIIb
Trad
43 Kurze Gerade
VIIc
Trad
44 Leichter Weg
I
Trad
45 Linker Winkelweg
III
Trad
46 Lorenzbogen
VIIIb
Trad
47 Lotlinie (RP)

red point

VIIc
Trad
48 Mäusejagd
VIIc
Trad
49 Mittagsschlaf
VIIIc
Trad
50 Mittelsenkrechte
VIIIb
Trad
51 Morgenwand
VIIc
Trad
52 Nach dem Regen kommt die Sonne
Xc
Trad
53 Nach Regen kommt Sonne
Xb
Trad
54 Neuer Südwestweg
V
Trad
55 Nordkamin
III
Trad
56 Nordkante
VIIc
Trad
57 Nordstern
VIIc
Trad
58 Nordverschneidung
IV
Trad
59 Ostriß
VIIa
Trad
60 Pfefferminzhimmel (RP)

red point

VIIIb
Trad
61 Pferderücken
VIIIb
Trad
62 Plewen
VIIIc
Trad
63 Praline
VIIb
Trad
64 Projekt
XIb
Trad
65 Rechter Winkelweg
IV
Trad
66 Reiseflop
VIIIc
Trad
67 Replay
VIIIc
Trad
68 Saubermann
VIIb
Trad
69 Schräger Riss
VIIb
Trad
70 Schwarze Kante
VIIIb
Trad
71 Schwarzer Riß
VIIb
Trad
72 Sieben Sommersprossen
IXa
Trad
73 Siebenschläfer (RP)

red point

VIIIb
Trad
74 Softeismann (RP)

red point

VIIIa
Trad
75 Sonnenallee
VIIc
Trad
76 Sonnenwendweg
VIIa
Trad
77 SO-Wand
VI
Trad
78 Stimmungswechsel (RP)

red point

VIIIb
Trad
79 Südecke
VI
Trad
80 Südecke (oU)

without support

VIIb
Trad
81 Südostwand
VI
Trad
82 Südwand
VI
Trad
83 Südweg
IV
Trad
84 Südwestweg
V
Trad
85 Traumreise
VIIc
Trad
86 Über die Box
VIIb
Trad
87 Urlaubsweg
V
Trad
88 Variante zum Brüderweg
VI
Trad
89 Variante zum Nordkamin
V
Trad
90 Variante zum Pferderücken
VIIIb
Trad
91 Vormittagsweg
VIIIa
Trad
92 Weg der Mitte
VIIIa
Trad
93 Weg für Gerta
IV
Trad
94 Weg in der Mitte
VIIIa
Trad
95 Westkamin
II
Trad
96 Westkante
V
Trad
97 Westkante (oU)

without support

VI
Trad
98 Westwand
VI
Trad
99 Westwand (oU)

without support

VIIa
Trad
100 Wilde Kirschen
IXb
Trad
101 Williamsbirne
VIIIa
Trad
102 Winkelriß
VI
Trad
103 Wir können auch anders
VIIb
Trad
104 Wüstenexpreß
VIIIb
Trad
105 Zeitenwandel
VIIIb
Trad
106 Zwischen Traum und Wirklichkeit
IXc
Trad
107 Zwischen Traum+Wirklichkeit
IXc
Trad
108 Zwischenlösung (RP)

red point

VIIc
Trad