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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
SX V Abendweg Trad
2
SX VIIb Abkürzung Trad
3

red point

4
SX IXb Allesfresser Trad
5
SX I Alter Weg Trad
6
SX VIIIa Auf einer Linie Trad
7
SX VIIIa Bergpreis Trad
8
SX VIIc Bleib ruhig Trad
9
SX VIIc Bordüre Trad
10
SX VIIa Bröckelweg Trad
11
SX VIIa Brüderkante Trad
12
SX Xa Dicke Luft (RP) Trad

red point

13
SX VIIa Dir. Nordwand Trad
14
SX VIIb Dir. Südwand Trad
15
SX VIIa Direkte Nordwand Trad
16
SX VIIc Direkte Schartenwand Trad
17
SX VIIc Direkte Südwand Trad
18
19
SX VIIb Direkter Abendweg Trad
20
SX VIIc Direkter Talweg Trad
21
SX VIIb Drunter und Drüber Trad
22
SX IV EV zum Südriss Trad
23
SX VIIa EV zur Südwestkante Trad
24
SX VIIb Exit W.A.R. Trad
25
SX VIIc Gerade Südwand Trad
26
SX VIIc Geradedurch Trad
27
SX IXb Glockenläuten Trad
28
SX VIIIc Heart of stone Trad
29
SX VIIc Höhlenbegrenzung Trad
30

without support

31
SX VIIc Höhlenriß Trad
32
SX VIIb Höhlenstiege Trad
33
SX V Höhlenvariante Trad
34
SX IV Höhlenweg Trad
36
SX VI Jung und Alt Trad
37
SX VIIa Kesselvariante Trad
38
SX VIIIc Kleinsteinwand Trad
39
SX VIIc Kniffelei Trad
40
SX IXb Kuckucksei (RP) Trad

red point

41
SX VIIIc Kurz und knapp Trad
42
SX IXa Kurzer Trichter Trad
43
SX I Leichter Weg Trad
44
SX VIIb Luftweg Trad
45
SX VIIa Märzweg Trad
46
SX VI Mittelvariante Trad
47
SX VIIa Mittelvariante (oU) Trad

without support

49
SX VIIIb MixMax Trad
50
SX IXa Nebelreißer Trad
51
SX III Neuer Weg Trad
52
SX II Nordostweg Trad
53
SX VI Nordrippe Trad
54
SX VIIa Nordriß Trad
55
SX VIIa Nordwand Trad
56
SX VIIb Ostverschneidung Trad
57

without support

58
SX VI Pfeilerweg Trad
59
SX VIIIa Pfingstrose (RP) Trad

red point

60
SX VIIIb Rechte Rißspur Trad
61
SX VIIIa Rechtsansteigend Trad
62
SX VIIIa Reeperbahn Trad
63

red point

64
SX VIIa Schartenwand Trad
65
SX VIIIb Schweres Los Trad
66
SX VIIIa Sonnenuntergang Trad
67
SX VI Sonnenwendweg Trad
68
SX VIIIa Steiles Wandstück Trad
69
SX VIIb Südostweg Trad
70
SX VIIa Südrinne Trad
71
SX IV Südriss Trad
72
SX VIIa Südwand Trad
73
SX VI Südwestkante Trad
79
SX I Verborgener Weg Trad
80
SX Xa Verbotene Zone Trad
81
82

red point

83
SX VIIb Weg am Rande Trad
84
SX IV Westkamin Trad
85
SX V Westwand Trad