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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
{SX} V Abendweg Trad
2
{SX} VIIb Abkürzung Trad
3
{SX} VIIIc Abschied vom Sommer (RP) Trad

red point

4
{SX} IXb Allesfresser Trad
5
{SX} I Alter Weg Trad
6
{SX} VIIIa Auf einer Linie Trad
7
{SX} VIIIa Bergpreis Trad
8
{SX} VIIc Bleib ruhig Trad
9
{SX} VIIc Bordüre Trad
10
{SX} VIIa Bröckelweg Trad
11
{SX} VIIa Brüderkante Trad
12
{SX} Xa Dicke Luft (RP) Trad

red point

13
{SX} VIIa Dir. Nordwand Trad
14
{SX} VIIb Dir. Südwand Trad
15
{SX} VIIa Direkte Nordwand Trad
16
{SX} VIIc Direkte Schartenwand Trad
17
{SX} VIIc Direkte Südwand Trad
18
{SX} VIIa Direkte Südwestkante Trad
19
{SX} VIIb Direkter Abendweg Trad
20
{SX} VIIc Direkter Talweg Trad
21
{SX} VIIb Drunter und Drüber Trad
22
{SX} IV EV zum Südriss Trad
23
{SX} VIIa EV zur Südwestkante Trad
24
{SX} VIIb Exit W.A.R. Trad
25
{SX} VIIc Gerade Südwand Trad
26
{SX} VIIc Geradedurch Trad
27
{SX} IXb Glockenläuten Trad
28
{SX} VIIIc Heart of stone Trad
29
{SX} VIIc Höhlenbegrenzung Trad
30
{SX} VIIIb Höhlenbegrenzung (oU) Trad

without support

31
{SX} VIIc Höhlenriß Trad
32
{SX} VIIb Höhlenstiege Trad
33
{SX} V Höhlenvariante Trad
34
{SX} IV Höhlenweg Trad
35
36
{SX} VI Jung und Alt Trad
37
{SX} VIIa Kesselvariante Trad
38
{SX} VIIIc Kleinsteinwand Trad
39
{SX} VIIc Kniffelei Trad
40
{SX} IXb Kuckucksei (RP) Trad

red point

41
{SX} VIIIc Kurz und knapp Trad
42
{SX} IXa Kurzer Trichter Trad
43
{SX} I Leichter Weg Trad
44
{SX} VIIb Luftweg Trad
45
{SX} VIIa Märzweg Trad
46
{SX} VI Mittelvariante Trad
47
{SX} VIIa Mittelvariante (oU) Trad

without support

49
{SX} VIIIb MixMax Trad
50
{SX} IXa Nebelreißer Trad
51
{SX} III Neuer Weg Trad
52
{SX} II Nordostweg Trad
53
{SX} VI Nordrippe Trad
54
{SX} VIIa Nordriß Trad
55
{SX} VIIa Nordwand Trad
56
{SX} VIIb Ostverschneidung Trad
57
{SX} VIIb Ostverschneidung (oU) Trad

without support

58
{SX} VI Pfeilerweg Trad
59
{SX} VIIIa Pfingstrose (RP) Trad

red point

60
{SX} VIIIb Rechte Rißspur Trad
61
{SX} VIIIa Rechtsansteigend Trad
62
{SX} VIIIa Reeperbahn Trad
63
{SX} VIIc Rucksackvariante (RP) Trad

red point

64
{SX} VIIa Schartenwand Trad
65
{SX} VIIIb Schweres Los Trad
66
{SX} VIIIa Sonnenuntergang Trad
67
{SX} VI Sonnenwendweg Trad
68
{SX} VIIIa Steiles Wandstück Trad
69
{SX} VIIb Südostweg Trad
70
{SX} VIIa Südrinne Trad
71
{SX} IV Südriss Trad
72
{SX} VIIa Südwand Trad
73
{SX} VI Südwestkante Trad
74
{SX} Xa Tag der Auferstehung Trad
79
{SX} I Verborgener Weg Trad
80
{SX} Xa Verbotene Zone Trad
81
{SX} VIIIa Vollständige Variation Trad
82

red point

83
{SX} VIIb Weg am Rande Trad
84
{SX} IV Westkamin Trad
85
{SX} V Westwand Trad