Hello!

First time here?

theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.

You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...

» Go exploring, » Learn more or » Ask us a question

Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
V Abendweg Trad
2
VIIb Abkürzung Trad
3

red point

4
IXb Allesfresser Trad
5
I Alter Weg Trad
6
VIIIa Auf einer Linie Trad
7
VIIIa Bergpreis Trad
8
VIIc Bleib ruhig Trad
9
VIIc Bordüre Trad
10
VIIa Bröckelweg Trad
11
VIIa Brüderkante Trad
12

red point

13
VIIa Dir. Nordwand Trad
14
VIIb Dir. Südwand Trad
15
17
19
20
VIIc Direkter Talweg Trad
24
VIIb Exit W.A.R. Trad
25
VIIc Gerade Südwand Trad
26
VIIc Geradedurch Trad
27
IXb Glockenläuten Trad
28
VIIIc Heart of stone Trad
29
30

without support

31
VIIc Höhlenriß Trad
32
VIIb Höhlenstiege Trad
34
IV Höhlenweg Trad
36
VI Jung und Alt Trad
37
VIIa Kesselvariante Trad
38
VIIIc Kleinsteinwand Trad
39
VIIc Kniffelei Trad
40

red point

41
VIIIc Kurz und knapp Trad
42
43
I Leichter Weg Trad 15m
44
VIIb Luftweg Trad
45
VIIa Märzweg Trad
46
47

without support

49
VIIIb MixMax Trad
50
IXa Nebelreißer Trad
51
III Neuer Weg Trad
52
II Nordostweg Trad
53
VI Nordrippe Trad
54
VIIa Nordriß Trad
55
VIIa Nordwand Trad
56
57

without support

58
VI Pfeilerweg Trad
59
VIIIa Pfingstrose (RP) Trad

red point

60
VIIIb Rechte Rißspur Trad
61
VIIIa Rechtsansteigend Trad
62
VIIIa Reeperbahn Trad
63

red point

64
VIIa Schartenwand Trad
65
VIIIb Schweres Los Trad
66
VIIIa Sonnenuntergang Trad
67
68
69
VIIb Südostweg Trad
70
VIIa Südrinne Trad
71
IV Südriss Trad
72
VIIa Südwand Trad
73
79
I Verborgener Weg Trad 15m
80
82

red point

83
VIIb Weg am Rande Trad
84
IV Westkamin Trad
85
V Westwand Trad

Activity

Check out what is happening in Kleinsteinwand.