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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
{SX} Xc Aerobis nonstop Trad
2
{SX} I Alter Weg Trad
3
{SX} VIIa AV zum Talweg Trad
4
{SX} Xa Bull Dog Trad
5
{SX} Xb Easy Tour Trad
6
{SX} VIIb Enkel Trad
7
{SX} VIIa EV zum Talweg Trad
8
{SX} VIIb Finderlohn Trad
9
{SX} VIIIc Gelegenheitskauf (RP) Trad

red point

10
{SX} VIIc Göttersteig Trad
11
{SX} IV Kiefernkante Trad
12
{SX} VIIIa Kleine Luftnummer Trad
13
{SX} VIIa Kleiner Spaß Trad
14
{SX} VIIc Kleines Präsent Trad
15
{SX} IXa Ladenhüter (RP) Trad

red point

16
{SX} IXa Ladenschluß Trad
17
{SX} VIIb Neuland Trad
18
{SX} IXb Niemandsland (RP) Trad

red point

19
{SX} IV Nordostriß Trad
20
{SX} III Nordostweg Trad
21
{SX} VIIa Nordrinne Trad
22
{SX} VIIc Oma Trad
23
{SX} VIIIb Oma (oU) Trad

without support

24
{SX} VIIa Opas Weg Trad
25
{SX} VIIc Randproblem Trad
26
{SX} VIIIb Regenbogen Trad
27
{SX} VIIc Regenwand Trad
28
{SX} VIIc Sandsturm Trad
29
{SX} VI Schöner Weg Trad
30
{SX} VIIa Spreize Trad
31
{SX} IXb Stunde der Kraft Trad
32
{SX} VIIa Südostkante Trad
33
{SX} Xa Südostwand Trad
34
{SX} III Südostweg Trad
35
{SX} IV Südriß Trad
36
{SX} VI Südwand Trad
37
{SX} II Südwestriß Trad
38
{SX} II SW Riß Trad
39
{SX} VIIa Talweg Trad
40
{SX} VIIb Traufe Trad
41
{SX} VIIa übergangsweg Trad
42
{SX} VIIIb Unter der Abseile Trad
43
{SX} VIIIb Variante zum Zickzackweg Trad
44
{SX} Xa Verlorenes Land Trad
45
{SX} VIIa Westkamin Trad
46
{SX} VIIa Zeughauskante Trad
47
{SX} VIIIb Zickzackweg Trad
48
{SX} VIIc Zschandkante (RP) Trad

red point