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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
SX Xc Aerobis nonstop Trad
2
SX I Alter Weg Trad
3
SX VIIa AV zum Talweg Trad
4
SX Xa Bull Dog Trad
5
SX Xb Easy Tour Trad
6
SX VIIb Enkel Trad
7
SX VIIa EV zum Talweg Trad
8
SX VIIb Finderlohn Trad
9
SX VIIIc Gelegenheitskauf (RP) Trad

red point

10
SX VIIc Göttersteig Trad
11
SX IV Kiefernkante Trad
12
SX VIIIa Kleine Luftnummer Trad
13
SX VIIa Kleiner Spaß Trad
14
SX VIIc Kleines Präsent Trad
15
SX IXa Ladenhüter (RP) Trad

red point

16
SX IXa Ladenschluß Trad
17
SX VIIb Neuland Trad
18
SX IXb Niemandsland (RP) Trad

red point

19
SX IV Nordostriß Trad
20
SX III Nordostweg Trad
21
SX VIIa Nordrinne Trad
22
SX VIIc Oma Trad
23
SX VIIIb Oma (oU) Trad

without support

24
SX VIIa Opas Weg Trad
25
SX VIIc Randproblem Trad
26
SX VIIIb Regenbogen Trad
27
SX VIIc Regenwand Trad
28
SX VIIc Sandsturm Trad
29
SX VI Schöner Weg Trad
30
SX VIIa Spreize Trad
31
SX IXb Stunde der Kraft Trad
32
SX VIIa Südostkante Trad
33
SX Xa Südostwand Trad
34
SX III Südostweg Trad
35
SX IV Südriß Trad
36
SX VI Südwand Trad
37
SX II Südwestriß Trad
38
SX II SW Riß Trad
39
SX VIIa Talweg Trad
40
SX VIIb Traufe Trad
41
SX VIIa übergangsweg Trad
42
SX VIIIb Unter der Abseile Trad
44
SX Xa Verlorenes Land Trad
45
SX VIIa Westkamin Trad
46
SX VIIa Zeughauskante Trad
47
SX VIIIb Zickzackweg Trad
48
SX VIIc Zschandkante (RP) Trad

red point