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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
{SX} XIa Abaton Trad
2
3
{SX} IV Alter Weg Trad
4
{SX} IXc Amokläufer Trad
5
{SX} VIIIc Arkadenwand Trad
6
{SX} IXb Auferstehung Trad
7
{SX} Xc Big Wall Trad
8
{SX} VIIc Broilerstiege Trad
9
{SX} IXc Charisma (RP) Trad

red point

10
{SX} IXb Chefsache (RP) Trad

red point

11
{SX} IXb Direkte Auferstehung Trad
12
{SX} VIIc Direkte Nordwand Trad
13
{SX} IXa Direkte Südwand Trad
14
{SX} VIIIa Direkter Pfeilerweg Trad
15
{SX} Xa Du darfst Trad
16
{SX} IXb Dublette Trad
17
{SX} VIIIa Easy going Trad
18
{SX} VIIIc Es lebe Frankreich (RP) Trad

red point

19
{SX} IXb Fingerwurm Trad
20
{SX} VIIc Frühlingserwachen Trad
21
{SX} IXc Ganz feine Linien Trad
22
{SX} VIIIb Gesellenstück Trad
23
{SX} VIIIc Gesellenstück (oU) Trad

without support

24
{SX} IXa Graue Schatten Trad
25
{SX} VIIc Grauzone Trad
26
{SX} VIIIc Grüner Frieden Trad
27
{SX} VIIa Halbenger Riß Trad
28
{SX} IXc Hang Out Trad
29
{SX} VIIIc Hard Rock Trad
30
{SX} VIIIc Heitere Auferstehung Trad
31
{SX} IXa Heiterer Blick Trad
32
{SX} VIIIc Herbststimmung Trad
33
{SX} VIIIc Hobo-Dance Trad
34
{SX} Xa Homepage (RP) Trad

red point

35
{SX} VIIIc Juniweg Trad
36
{SX} VIIIc Konec Trad
37
{SX} VIIIc Koordinationsproblem Trad
38
{SX} IXa Kotflügel Trad
39
{SX} IXa Kuhstall Trad
40
{SX} IXa Lange Schatten Trad
41
{SX} VIIIb Lange Wand Trad
42
{SX} VIIc Leichte Kost Trad
43
{SX} III Leichter Weg Trad
44
{SX} IXc Los Banditos (RP) Trad

red point

45
{SX} IXa Meisterstück Trad
46
{SX} VIIIc Minarett Trad
47
{SX} VIIIc Mit Haut und Haaren Trad
48
{SX} VIIIc Mit klammen Fingern Trad
49
{SX} VIIb Moderne Klassik Trad
50
{SX} Xc Morphologie (RP) Trad

red point

51
{SX} VIIc Nebenan Trad
52
{SX} VIIa Neuer Nordriß Trad
53
{SX} VIIc Nischenweg Trad
54
{SX} III Nordkamin Trad
55
{SX} III Nordriß Trad
56
{SX} VI Nordwand Trad
57
{SX} III Nordweg Trad
58
{SX} IV Nordwestweg Trad
59
{SX} V Nordwestweg (oU) Trad

without support

60
{SX} IXb Orpheus (RP) Trad

red point

61
{SX} Xc Outbreak Trad
62

red point

63
{SX} VIIb Palette Trad
64
{SX} V Pfeilerweg Trad
65
{SX} VI Pfeilerwinkel Trad
66
{SX} VI Pfingstweg Trad
67
{SX} IXb Picasso (RP) Trad

red point

68
{SX} VIIc Reformation Trad
69
{SX} VIIIa Reibungseinstieg Trad
70
{SX} VIIIb Schäferstündchen Trad
71
{SX} VIIIb Schäferstündchen extra Trad
72
{SX} VIIc Schartenriss Trad
73
{SX} VIIIa Schartenriss (oU) Trad

without support

74
{SX} VIIIb Schritte am Abend Trad
75
{SX} IXc Schwarze Schleier Trad
76
{SX} IXc Spiel mit der Kraft Trad
77
{SX} VIIb Südostflanke Trad
78
{SX} VIIIa Südostweg Trad
79
{SX} VIIIa Südpfeiler Trad
80
{SX} VIIc Südrinne Trad
81
{SX} VI Südriß Trad
82
{SX} VIIb Südverschneidung Trad
83
{SX} VIIIc Südwand Trad
84
{SX} VI Südweg Trad
85
{SX} VIIc Talarkade Trad
86
{SX} III Talkamin Trad
87
{SX} VIIa Talriß Trad
88
{SX} VI übergangsweg Trad
90
{SX} VIIIb Verfolgungswahn Trad
92
{SX} IXb Versunkene Träume Trad
93
{SX} VIIIb Vis a vis Trad
94
{SX} VIIa Vollständiger Südriß Trad
95
96
{SX} IXc West-Side-Story (RP) Trad

red point

97
{SX} IXb Zipper-Zoom Trad