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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
XIa Abaton Trad
3
IV Alter Weg Trad
4
IXc Amokläufer Trad
5
VIIIc Arkadenwand Trad
6
IXb Auferstehung Trad
7
Xc Big Wall Trad
8
VIIc Broilerstiege Trad
9
IXc Charisma (RP) Trad

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10
IXb Chefsache (RP) Trad

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12
13
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15
Xa Du darfst Trad
16
IXb Dublette Trad
17
VIIIa Easy going Trad
18

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19
IXb Fingerwurm Trad
22
VIIIb Gesellenstück Trad
23

without support

24
IXa Graue Schatten Trad
25
VIIc Grauzone Trad
26
VIIIc Grüner Frieden Trad
27
VIIa Halbenger Riß Trad
28
IXc Hang Out Trad
29
VIIIc Hard Rock Trad
31
IXa Heiterer Blick Trad
32
VIIIc Herbststimmung Trad
33
VIIIc Hobo-Dance Trad
34

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35
VIIIc Juniweg Trad
36
VIIIc Konec Trad
38
IXa Kotflügel Trad
39
IXa Kuhstall Trad
40
IXa Lange Schatten Trad
41
VIIIb Lange Wand Trad
42
VIIc Leichte Kost Trad
43
III Leichter Weg Trad
44

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45
IXa Meisterstück Trad
46
VIIIc Minarett Trad
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VIIb Moderne Klassik Trad
50

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51
VIIc Nebenan Trad
52
VIIa Neuer Nordriß Trad
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VIIc Nischenweg Trad
54
III Nordkamin Trad
55
III Nordriß Trad
56
VI Nordwand Trad
57
III Nordweg Trad
58
IV Nordwestweg Trad
59

without support

60
IXb Orpheus (RP) Trad

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61
Xc Outbreak Trad
62

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63
VIIb Palette Trad
64
V Pfeilerweg Trad
65
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VI Pfingstweg Trad
67
IXb Picasso (RP) Trad

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68
VIIc Reformation Trad
69
VIIIa Reibungseinstieg Trad
70
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VIIc Schartenriss Trad
73
VIIIa Schartenriss (oU) Trad

without support

74
VIIIb Schritte am Abend Trad
77
VIIb Südostflanke Trad
78
VIIIa Südostweg Trad
79
VIIIa Südpfeiler Trad
80
VIIc Südrinne Trad
81
VI Südriß Trad
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83
VIIIc Südwand Trad
84
VI Südweg Trad
85
VIIc Talarkade Trad
86
III Talkamin Trad
87
VIIa Talriß Trad
88
90
VIIIb Verfolgungswahn Trad
93
VIIIb Vis a vis Trad
96

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97
IXb Zipper-Zoom Trad

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