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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
SX XIa Abaton Trad
3
SX IV Alter Weg Trad
4
SX IXc Amokläufer Trad
5
SX VIIIc Arkadenwand Trad
6
SX IXb Auferstehung Trad
7
SX Xc Big Wall Trad
8
SX VIIc Broilerstiege Trad
9
SX IXc Charisma (RP) Trad

red point

10
SX IXb Chefsache (RP) Trad

red point

11
12
SX VIIc Direkte Nordwand Trad
13
SX IXa Direkte Südwand Trad
14
SX VIIIa Direkter Pfeilerweg Trad
15
SX Xa Du darfst Trad
16
SX IXb Dublette Trad
17
SX VIIIa Easy going Trad
18

red point

19
SX IXb Fingerwurm Trad
20
SX VIIc Frühlingserwachen Trad
21
SX IXc Ganz feine Linien Trad
22
SX VIIIb Gesellenstück Trad
23
SX VIIIc Gesellenstück (oU) Trad

without support

24
SX IXa Graue Schatten Trad
25
SX VIIc Grauzone Trad
26
SX VIIIc Grüner Frieden Trad
27
SX VIIa Halbenger Riß Trad
28
SX IXc Hang Out Trad
29
SX VIIIc Hard Rock Trad
30
SX VIIIc Heitere Auferstehung Trad
31
SX IXa Heiterer Blick Trad
32
SX VIIIc Herbststimmung Trad
33
SX VIIIc Hobo-Dance Trad
34
SX Xa Homepage (RP) Trad

red point

35
SX VIIIc Juniweg Trad
36
SX VIIIc Konec Trad
37
SX VIIIc Koordinationsproblem Trad
38
SX IXa Kotflügel Trad
39
SX IXa Kuhstall Trad
40
SX IXa Lange Schatten Trad
41
SX VIIIb Lange Wand Trad
42
SX VIIc Leichte Kost Trad
43
SX III Leichter Weg Trad
44
SX IXc Los Banditos (RP) Trad

red point

45
SX IXa Meisterstück Trad
46
SX VIIIc Minarett Trad
47
SX VIIIc Mit Haut und Haaren Trad
48
SX VIIIc Mit klammen Fingern Trad
49
SX VIIb Moderne Klassik Trad
50
SX Xc Morphologie (RP) Trad

red point

51
SX VIIc Nebenan Trad
52
SX VIIa Neuer Nordriß Trad
53
SX VIIc Nischenweg Trad
54
SX III Nordkamin Trad
55
SX III Nordriß Trad
56
SX VI Nordwand Trad
57
SX III Nordweg Trad
58
SX IV Nordwestweg Trad
59

without support

60
SX IXb Orpheus (RP) Trad

red point

61
SX Xc Outbreak Trad
62

red point

63
SX VIIb Palette Trad
64
SX V Pfeilerweg Trad
65
SX VI Pfeilerwinkel Trad
66
SX VI Pfingstweg Trad
67
SX IXb Picasso (RP) Trad

red point

68
SX VIIc Reformation Trad
69
SX VIIIa Reibungseinstieg Trad
70
SX VIIIb Schäferstündchen Trad
72
SX VIIc Schartenriss Trad
73
SX VIIIa Schartenriss (oU) Trad

without support

74
SX VIIIb Schritte am Abend Trad
75
SX IXc Schwarze Schleier Trad
76
77
SX VIIb Südostflanke Trad
78
SX VIIIa Südostweg Trad
79
SX VIIIa Südpfeiler Trad
80
SX VIIc Südrinne Trad
81
SX VI Südriß Trad
82
SX VIIb Südverschneidung Trad
83
SX VIIIc Südwand Trad
84
SX VI Südweg Trad
85
SX VIIc Talarkade Trad
86
SX III Talkamin Trad
87
SX VIIa Talriß Trad
88
SX VI übergangsweg Trad
90
SX VIIIb Verfolgungswahn Trad
92
SX IXb Versunkene Träume Trad
93
SX VIIIb Vis a vis Trad
96

red point

97
SX IXb Zipper-Zoom Trad