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Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 Alter Weg
IV
Trad
2 Auguster
IXa
Trad
3 Aus der Höhle des Löwen (RP)

red point

IXa
Trad
4 Boulder
VIIc
Trad
5 Diana
VIIIb
Trad
6 Dunkler Riß
VI
Trad
7 Fehlschlag
VIIIa
Trad
8 Gelber Pfeiler
VIIIc
Trad
9 Grüner Pfeiler
VIIc
Trad
10 Heller Riß
VIIc
Trad
11 Herbst und Frühling
VIIIa
Trad
12 Herbstkletterei
VIIIb
Trad
13 Herbstweg
VIIa
Trad
14 Juniweg
VIIa
Trad
15 Kaffeetour
VI
Trad
16 Klapperschlange
IXa
Trad
17 Kobra
Xa
Trad
18 Kurze Pfeilerwand
IXb
Trad
19 Lehrpfad
V
Trad
20 Luftlinie
IXa
Trad
21 Ninja
Xa
Trad
22 Nordostweg
VI
Trad
23 Nordquerung
V
Trad
24 Nordwand
VIIIa
Trad
25 Nordweg
V
Trad
26 Obere Variante
VIIa
Trad
27 Ostkante
VIIa
Trad
28 Pfeilerkamin
V
Trad
29 Schulhandriß
VIIa
Trad
30 Self Control
Xb
Trad
31 Südpfeiler
VIIIa
Trad
32 Südriß
VIIb
Trad
33 Südriß (oU)

without support

VIIIc
Trad
34 Südvariante zum AW
V
Trad
35 Südwestweg
V
Trad
36 Talweg
VIIa
Trad
37 Westverschneidung
VIIc
Trad
38 Wildes Leben
Xc
Trad
39 Wildfang
VIIIb
Trad
40 Wildfütterung
VIIc
Trad
41 Wildhund
IXb
Trad
42 Wildpfad
IXb
Trad