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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
{SX} VIIa Abendweg Trad
2
{SX} VIIIa Abseilwand Trad
3
{SX} Xb Allygator (RP) Trad

red point

4
{SX} II Alter Weg Trad
5
{SX} VIIIc Ambiente (RP) Trad

red point

6
{SX} IXc Anima (RP) Trad

red point

7
{SX} VIIIb Arges' blutende Warzen Trad
8
{SX} VIIIb Aurelia Trad
9
{SX} IXc Belladonna Trad
10
{SX} IXb Blitzblatz Trad
11
{SX} VIIIa Bröselwand (RP) Trad

red point

12
{SX} VIIc Cornflakes Trad
13
{SX} VIIb Deutscher Pfeiler Trad
14
{SX} VIIIc Direkter Talweg Trad
15
{SX} V Dreckwand Trad
16
{SX} VIIIb Drittes Auge Trad
17
{SX} VIIc Durchschlupf Trad
18

red point

19
{SX} VIIIc Ein weiter Weg Trad
20
{SX} VIIc Einreibung Trad
22
{SX} II Eisiger Kamin Trad
23
{SX} VIIb EV zum Sägebügelchen Trad
24
{SX} VIIIc EV zur Steilstufe Trad
25
{SX} IXb Exhibitionist (RP) Trad

red point

26
{SX} Xc Exodus (RP) Trad

red point

27
{SX} Xb Exorzist Trad
28
{SX} VIIc Fenstergucker Trad
29
{SX} IXa Filetstück Trad
30
{SX} VIIc Fingerkuppe Trad
31
{SX} VIIb Frühlingsweg Trad
32
{SX} VIIb Gafferkante Trad
34
{SX} IXb Gerader Südpfeiler Trad
35

red point

36
{SX} VIIIc Gottes Zorn Trad
37
{SX} VIIb Großer Überhang Trad
38
{SX} Xa Herzklopfen Trad
39

red point

40
{SX} VI Hoher Riß Trad
41
{SX} VI Hoher Winkel Trad
42
{SX} VIIa Kinderspiel Trad
43
{SX} VIIIc Kirnitzschtalfest (RP) Trad

red point

44
{SX} VIIIb Kleine Wand (RP) Trad

red point

45
{SX} IXa Klumpfuß Trad
46
{SX} Xb Koitus Trad
47
{SX} IXb Kritischer Punkt Trad
48
{SX} VIIIc Krull Trad
51
{SX} VIIb Linke Schluchtwand Trad
52
{SX} IXa Magische Linie (RP) Trad

red point

53
{SX} VIIa Maiweg Trad
54
{SX} VIIc Märzweg Trad
55
{SX} VIIIa Nebelfänger Trad
56
{SX} II Neuer Nordweg Trad
57
{SX} II Neuer Weg Trad
58
{SX} III Nordostschlucht Trad
59
{SX} VIIa Nordpfeiler Trad
60
{SX} VIIc Nordriß Trad
61
{SX} II Nordschlucht Trad
62
{SX} III Nordwestkamine Trad
63
{SX} V Nordwestpfeiler Trad
64
{SX} VIIc Nordwestriß Trad
65
{SX} VIIc Novemberkante Trad
66
{SX} VI Novemberweg Trad
67
{SX} VIIIc Oberlausitzpfeiler (RP) Trad

red point

68
{SX} VIIa Oktoberriß Trad
69
{SX} IXa Olé! (RP) Trad

red point

70
{SX} VIIa Ostkante Mixed 17m, 1
71
{SX} VIIa Ostriß Trad
72
{SX} II Ostweg Trad
73
{SX} IXb Panoramadach (RP) Trad

red point

74
{SX} VIIIa Panoramakante Trad
75
{SX} IXa Pendlerpauschale Trad
76
{SX} III Pfeilerkamin Trad
77
{SX} VIIIc Pfeilerstirn Trad
78
{SX} VIIIb Pfeilerweg Trad
79
{SX} VIIIa Pfingstweg Trad
80
{SX} VIIc Plattenwand (RP) Trad

red point

81
{SX} IXa Popcorn Trad
82
{SX} Xb Poseidon Trad
83
{SX} IXa Primaballerina Trad
84
{SX} VIIIa Rechte Schluchtwand Trad
85
{SX} VIIc Rechtsgeneigter Riss Trad
86
{SX} VIIb Reibungsfreiheit Trad
87
{SX} XIIa Ride the Snake (RP) Trad

red point

88
{SX} VIIIc Riesenstufe (RP) Trad

red point

89
{SX} VIIb Sägebügelchen Trad
90
{SX} VIIa Schartenriss Trad
91
{SX} VIIa Schluchtriß Trad
92
{SX} IXa Separate Linie Trad
93
{SX} VIIa Septemberkante Trad
94
{SX} VIIc Silentium Trad
95
{SX} VIIIc Sindbad Trad
96
{SX} VIIc Solotour Trad
97
{SX} IXc Spieltrieb (RP) Trad

red point

98
{SX} VIIIc Steistufe Trad
99
{SX} V Südkamin Trad
100
{SX} VIIa Südkamin (oU) Trad

without support

101
{SX} IXb Südpfeiler Trad
102
{SX} VIIa Südriß Trad
103
{SX} VIIIb Südwand Trad
104
{SX} V Südweg Trad
105
{SX} VIIb Südwestriß Trad
106
{SX} VIIc Südwestriß (oU) Trad

without support

107
{SX} VIIb Südwestweg Trad
108
{SX} VI Südwestwinkel Trad
109
{SX} Xb Superdirekter Talweg Trad
110
{SX} VIIc Talweg Trad
111
{SX} IXa Teufelsdaumen Trad
112
{SX} IXa Teufelsklaue Trad
113
{SX} III Tunnelweg Trad
114
{SX} IXc Überwindung Trad
115
{SX} VIIa Variante zum Ostriß Trad
116
{SX} VIIb Vergessener Weg Trad
117
{SX} VIIIc Vergiss mein nicht (RP) Trad

red point

118
{SX} IXc Vorspiel Trad
119
{SX} IXb Wahre Wiederbelebung Trad
120
{SX} VIIIb Weg übers Dach Trad
121
{SX} VIIb Westkante Trad
122
{SX} VIIc Westkante direkt Trad
123
{SX} IV Westschlucht Trad
124
{SX} IXb Wiederbelebung Trad
125
{SX} VIIc Wiesu denn bluß Trad
126
{SX} IXc Wilder Pfeiler Trad
127
{SX} VIIb Wilder Schneider Trad
128
{SX} V Winkelriss Trad
129
{SX} IXb Wut im Bauch Trad
130
{SX} VIIIb Zuckerbrot und Peitsche Trad
131
{SX} IXc Zwang und Freiheit Trad
132
{SX} Xb Zyklopenwand Trad