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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
VIIa Abendweg Trad
2
VIIIa Abseilwand Trad
3

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4
II Alter Weg Trad
5
VIIIc Ambiente (RP) Trad

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6
IXc Anima (RP) Trad

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8
VIIIb Aurelia Trad
9
IXc Belladonna Trad
10
IXb Blitzblatz Trad
11
VIIIa Bröselwand (RP) Trad

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12
VIIc Cornflakes Trad
13
14
VIIIc Direkter Talweg Trad
15
V Dreckwand Trad
16
VIIIb Drittes Auge Trad
17
VIIc Durchschlupf Trad
19
VIIIc Ein weiter Weg Trad
20
VIIc Einreibung Trad
22
24
VIIIc EV zur Steilstufe Trad
25

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26
Xc Exodus (RP) Trad

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27
Xb Exorzist Trad
28
VIIc Fenstergucker Trad
29
IXa Filetstück Trad
30
VIIc Fingerkuppe Trad
31
VIIb Frühlingsweg Trad
32
VIIb Gafferkante Trad
35

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36
VIIIc Gottes Zorn Trad
37
38
Xa Herzklopfen Trad
39

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40
VI Hoher Riß Trad
41
VI Hoher Winkel Trad
42
VIIa Kinderspiel Trad
43

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44
VIIIb Kleine Wand (RP) Trad

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45
IXa Klumpfuß Trad
46
Xb Koitus Trad
47
48
VIIIc Krull Trad
52

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53
VIIa Maiweg Trad
54
VIIc Märzweg Trad
55
VIIIa Nebelfänger Trad
56
57
II Neuer Weg Trad
58
59
VIIa Nordpfeiler Trad
60
VIIc Nordriß Trad
61
II Nordschlucht Trad
62
III Nordwestkamine Trad
64
VIIc Nordwestriß Trad
65
VIIc Novemberkante Trad
66
VI Novemberweg Trad
67

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68
VIIa Oktoberriß Trad
69
IXa Olé! (RP) Trad

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70
VIIa ** Ostkante Mixed 17m, 1
71
VIIa Ostriß Trad
72
II Ostweg Trad
73

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74
VIIIa Panoramakante Trad
75
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III Pfeilerkamin Trad
77
VIIIc Pfeilerstirn Trad
78
VIIIb Pfeilerweg Trad
79
VIIIa Pfingstweg Trad
80

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81
IXa Popcorn Trad
82
Xb Poseidon Trad
83
IXa Primaballerina Trad
84
86
87

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88
VIIIc Riesenstufe (RP) Trad

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89
VIIb Sägebügelchen Trad
90
VIIa Schartenriss Trad
91
VIIa Schluchtriß Trad
92
IXa Separate Linie Trad
93
VIIa Septemberkante Trad
94
VIIc Silentium Trad
95
VIIIc Sindbad Trad
96
VIIc Solotour Trad
97

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98
VIIIc Steistufe Trad
99
V Südkamin Trad
100
VIIa Südkamin (oU) Trad

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101
IXb Südpfeiler Trad
102
VIIa Südriß Trad
103
VIIIb Südwand Trad
104
V Südweg Trad
105
VIIb Südwestriß Trad
106

without support

107
VIIb Südwestweg Trad
108
110
VIIc Talweg Trad
111
IXa Teufelsdaumen Trad
112
IXa Teufelsklaue Trad
113
III Tunnelweg Trad
114
IXc Überwindung Trad
116
VIIb Vergessener Weg Trad
117

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118
IXc Vorspiel Trad
120
VIIIb Weg übers Dach Trad
121
VIIb Westkante Trad
122
123
IV Westschlucht Trad
124
IXb Wiederbelebung Trad
125
126
IXc Wilder Pfeiler Trad
127
128
V Winkelriss Trad
129
IXb Wut im Bauch Trad
132
Xb Zyklopenwand Trad

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