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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
SX VIIa Abendweg Trad
2
SX VIIIa Abseilwand Trad
3
SX Xb Allygator (RP) Trad

red point

4
SX II Alter Weg Trad
5
SX VIIIc Ambiente (RP) Trad

red point

6
SX IXc Anima (RP) Trad

red point

7
8
SX VIIIb Aurelia Trad
9
SX IXc Belladonna Trad
10
SX IXb Blitzblatz Trad
11
SX VIIIa Bröselwand (RP) Trad

red point

12
SX VIIc Cornflakes Trad
13
SX VIIb Deutscher Pfeiler Trad
14
SX VIIIc Direkter Talweg Trad
15
SX V Dreckwand Trad
16
SX VIIIb Drittes Auge Trad
17
SX VIIc Durchschlupf Trad
18

red point

19
SX VIIIc Ein weiter Weg Trad
20
SX VIIc Einreibung Trad
22
SX II Eisiger Kamin Trad
23
24
SX VIIIc EV zur Steilstufe Trad
25
SX IXb Exhibitionist (RP) Trad

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26
SX Xc Exodus (RP) Trad

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27
SX Xb Exorzist Trad
28
SX VIIc Fenstergucker Trad
29
SX IXa Filetstück Trad
30
SX VIIc Fingerkuppe Trad
31
SX VIIb Frühlingsweg Trad
32
SX VIIb Gafferkante Trad
34
35

red point

36
SX VIIIc Gottes Zorn Trad
37
SX VIIb Großer Überhang Trad
38
SX Xa Herzklopfen Trad
39

red point

40
SX VI Hoher Riß Trad
41
SX VI Hoher Winkel Trad
42
SX VIIa Kinderspiel Trad
43

red point

44
SX VIIIb Kleine Wand (RP) Trad

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45
SX IXa Klumpfuß Trad
46
SX Xb Koitus Trad
47
SX IXb Kritischer Punkt Trad
48
SX VIIIc Krull Trad
51
SX VIIb Linke Schluchtwand Trad
52

red point

53
SX VIIa Maiweg Trad
54
SX VIIc Märzweg Trad
55
SX VIIIa Nebelfänger Trad
56
SX II Neuer Nordweg Trad
57
SX II Neuer Weg Trad
58
SX III Nordostschlucht Trad
59
SX VIIa Nordpfeiler Trad
60
SX VIIc Nordriß Trad
61
SX II Nordschlucht Trad
62
SX III Nordwestkamine Trad
63
SX V Nordwestpfeiler Trad
64
SX VIIc Nordwestriß Trad
65
SX VIIc Novemberkante Trad
66
SX VI Novemberweg Trad
67

red point

68
SX VIIa Oktoberriß Trad
69
SX IXa Olé! (RP) Trad

red point

70
SX VIIa Ostkante Trad
71
SX VIIa Ostriß Trad
72
SX II Ostweg Trad
73
SX IXb Panoramadach (RP) Trad

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74
SX VIIIa Panoramakante Trad
75
SX IXa Pendlerpauschale Trad
76
SX III Pfeilerkamin Trad
77
SX VIIIc Pfeilerstirn Trad
78
SX VIIIb Pfeilerweg Trad
79
SX VIIIa Pfingstweg Trad
80
SX VIIc Plattenwand (RP) Trad

red point

81
SX IXa Popcorn Trad
82
SX Xb Poseidon Trad
83
SX IXa Primaballerina Trad
84
SX VIIIa Rechte Schluchtwand Trad
85
SX VIIc Rechtsgeneigter Riss Trad
86
SX VIIb Reibungsfreiheit Trad
87
SX XIIa Ride the Snake (RP) Trad

red point

88
SX VIIIc Riesenstufe (RP) Trad

red point

89
SX VIIb Sägebügelchen Trad
90
SX VIIa Schartenriss Trad
91
SX VIIa Schluchtriß Trad
92
SX IXa Separate Linie Trad
93
SX VIIa Septemberkante Trad
94
SX VIIc Silentium Trad
95
SX VIIIc Sindbad Trad
96
SX VIIc Solotour Trad
97
SX IXc Spieltrieb (RP) Trad

red point

98
SX VIIIc Steistufe Trad
99
SX V Südkamin Trad
100
SX VIIa Südkamin (oU) Trad

without support

101
SX IXb Südpfeiler Trad
102
SX VIIa Südriß Trad
103
SX VIIIb Südwand Trad
104
SX V Südweg Trad
105
SX VIIb Südwestriß Trad
106
SX VIIc Südwestriß (oU) Trad

without support

107
SX VIIb Südwestweg Trad
108
SX VI Südwestwinkel Trad
109
110
SX VIIc Talweg Trad
111
SX IXa Teufelsdaumen Trad
112
SX IXa Teufelsklaue Trad
113
SX III Tunnelweg Trad
114
SX IXc Überwindung Trad
115
SX VIIa Variante zum Ostriß Trad
116
SX VIIb Vergessener Weg Trad
117

red point

118
SX IXc Vorspiel Trad
119
120
SX VIIIb Weg übers Dach Trad
121
SX VIIb Westkante Trad
122
SX VIIc Westkante direkt Trad
123
SX IV Westschlucht Trad
124
SX IXb Wiederbelebung Trad
125
SX VIIc Wiesu denn bluß Trad
126
SX IXc Wilder Pfeiler Trad
127
SX VIIb Wilder Schneider Trad
128
SX V Winkelriss Trad
129
SX IXb Wut im Bauch Trad
130
131
SX IXc Zwang und Freiheit Trad
132
SX Xb Zyklopenwand Trad