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Preußriss

  • Grade context: UIAA
  • Photos: 7
  • Ascents: 65
  • Aka: Brot und Spiele
17

Seasonality

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Description

The main part cliff of the Schreyfels named after the first route set up.

Access issues inherited from Schreyfels

The sector Amphitheater is closed!

Descent notes

At the top their is guard rail and the start of the abseil is marked. Be careful below there are several routes. 3 x 22m

Another option is to follow the path into direction of the castle but don't enter it, it is private property. The trail passes the property on the left and heads down until you reach an abseil anchor. Rappel once 22m.

Ethic inherited from Donautal

Leave no trace

  • No camp fire and bivvy.
  • Don't leave toilet paper.
  • Pick up rubbish.
  • No unnecessary noise.
  • Don't toprope directly through bolts – use your own material.

Routes

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Grade Route
1 7 40m
2 6 20m

FA: Volkert

1 6 20m
2 7- 20m

Shares the first pitch with 'Preußriss'. At the first belay straight up two bolts, then left. Laybacks until the second belay. From there to the right into a dihedral. Leaving the belay and climbing into the dihedral is the crux. Then follow the dihedral to the summit.

First and second pitch can be done in one push.

FA: Baur, 1971

FA: Kästle & Steimle, 1989

The route to climb in to the the starts of 'Kreiner Führe', 'Dezemberstreich' and 'Preußriss'.

FA: Kreiner & Irmes, 1982

FA: Walz, 1955

One of the classics in the 'Donautal'.

  1. 22m (6-) Straight up to the end of the dihedral. Two slings and 3 bolts. Between the first and the second bolt a nut is useful to improve protection. On the band, after the dihedral, head right and traverse to the first belay anchor. Watch out for rappelling climbers.

  2. 22m (6) From the anchor back to the left and before the arete upwards 3m. At some big holes traverse left to the arete and then keep right to reach the second belay right of the arete and 5 meters below the chimney of pitch 3.

  3. 22m (6+) Traverse left to the arete again (2m) and then climb upwards to reach the second bolt of this pitch. At that bolt climb around the corner and piaz into the chimney. Here a green cam (.75) and some meters above a grey (4) are helpful. At the end of the chimney the route splits up. Left is the crack of the exit variant 'Direkter Rissaustieg'. The original route is 2m on the right of the crack. One bolt and one old sling on the way. At the top use the handrail or the trees to belay.

FA: Arthur Oswald †, 1956

Very good but hard exit variant of 'Efeuverschneidung'. Crack skills, trad gear and endurance are necessary.

FA: Kreiner & Fritz, 1982

FA: Arthur Oswald †, 1989

1 6+ 20m
2 6- 20m
3 9- 20m

FA: Mayer & Arthur Oswald †, 1956

FA: Mailänder, 1986

Closed
1 7 45m
2 7 25m
3 + 35m

FA: Kreiner & Lebherz, 1985

FA: Kästle & Steimle, 1988

One of the best 6- in the area. Because of it's approach it is less often climbed and the rock is very good. The overhanging start is shared with the second pitch of 'Brot und Speck'. Follow the nice dihedral and crack up to the belay (just left to the third pitch of the Opakante). From there follow the crack again to the top. Keep left of the exit chimney of the Opakante.

To reach the start climb in via 'Brot und Speck' or rappel from Opakante.

FA: Arthur Oswald †, 1989

FA: Kreiner & Dangeleit, 1987

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Georg Hermann, Ronald Nordmann

Date: 2020

ISBN: 978-3-95611-126-6

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Tue 25 Apr
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