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Description

Coming from the Fuchsfels, the second cliff of the "Zinnen" (merlons). Features 2-pitch routes, mainly face climbing.

Access issues inherited from Hausener Felsen

None

Approach

Follow the trail from the car park. At the junction with a hiking trail ascending from the valley don't follow the signs to the Verlobungsfels. Keep straight on until the next junction below the Fuchsfels. Turn right and ascent until you reach the trail that connects all cliffs. Turn left and pass the Fuchfels sectors Klemmfix and Metaxa and the 'Westliche Zinne'.

Descent notes

Abseiling is possible but scrambling/walking is faster. Enter the top of the cliff and keep right.

Routes

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Grade Route

Set by Hermann, 2003

Climb in via 'Flug des Falken'.

Set by Calmbach & Stöhr, 1984

Set by Hermann, 2003

The direct entry to 'Eichkatzelkamin'. Avoids the long traverse but is more difficult. The chimney is very polished but there are very good rest positions. Protection is sufficient.

Climb in via 'Eichkatzel Direkteinstieg'. It's a very good alternative over the regular finish of the 'Eichkatzelkamin'.

FA: Kiefer, 1989

Set by Kiefer, 2003

The route starts right from the 'Eichkatzel Direkteinstieg' and the first pitch ends at the same belay. After the belay go straight up and then follow the bolts to the right through the slab. After the 4th bolt head left. The next bolt is far away but the section is not too hard. Then go up and follow the bolts until the top of the face.

It is possible to rap off twice with a single rope, once with two half ropes or walk off. To walk off don't use the belay in the face. Climb in the top. There is another bolt you can use to belay and sit comfortably while waiting for the second.

FA: Calmbach, Stöhr & Manz, 1981

FA: Breithaupt & Manz, 1981

FA: Steimle, 1987

Starts at the first belay of Discopapa. The very nice dihedral and crack of the first pitch is already visible from the bottom of the cliff. A classic route at this cliff.

FA: Oswald, 1957

An alternative to the last pitch of 'Piazwandl'. Turns left at the second pitch after the belay. One short crux.

FA: Calmbach, 1983

Starts left of the first belay of 'Discopapa' between 'Piazwandl' and 'Das Blöde Eck'. Well protetected.

FA: Kreiner & Dangeleit, 1988

FA: Bieder & Friedrich, 1979

FA: Riegg, 1980

FA: Kästle & Klittich, 1981

FA: Kreiner, 1992

FA: Oswald, 1959

FA: Kästle & Roth, 1983

Most easy route of the cliff and a classic. Start below the route 'Kamin' and traverse to the left until you reach the chimney of 'Eichkatzelkamin'. To save time it is possible to pass the first belay where the route crosses 'Discopapa' and 'Piazwandl'.

FA: Blickle, 1930

The chimney between 'Dritte Zinne' and 'Westliche Zinne'. Always cool and may be wet after rain.

Compared to other climbs in the valley the protection is good.

Toproping the route isn't recommended. The single belay anchor is around and almost below an edge. Let the second follow or force him/she to lead

FA: Oswald, 1976

Activity

Check out what is happening in Dritte Zinne.