Ascents in Steinicht

good jugs where you need them, stay left of scar

consistent small moves, not obvious

not too much pro

huge jugs, some brittle, start is crux

Damp and vegetated

demanding ropework, nice moves, some loose brittle

Nice moves over the overhangs, but the rest is a bit too vegetated.

unclear start

long and continuous

powerful move past first bolt, then plaisir

Pre-clipped sketchy clip of first bolt from loose jug. Following flakes pasted on seem to hold.

less homogeneous

protect first clip with sling from tree

great easier alternative start of Staubfinger

Ein- und Ausstieg sind die schwersten Züge. Der direkte Ausstieg ist sehr schwer für diesen Grad. Ansonsten schöne längere Kletterroute für das Gebiet.

Did a strict start directly on the arete. The whole route felt a little awkward, I was always using hand- and footholds that never seemed to be oriented quite the way I wanted them.

Still a striking line.

Felt #hard for the grade

Cool, technical and flowy route on positive edges, with a juggy finish. My solution for the 1st bolt boulder was to commit to the overhang on pinches for the move to the ledge, then go up from the right using the crimps and righthand slopers.

I initially thought this looked like a weird boulder problem, but it's actually an excellent line.

I missed the OS, mostly because of the plethora of options - and not being in a fighting mood. Too bad - the route went surprisingly easily once I had a beta.

#soft #2ndgo