Buruku Rock All Trad climbing

Short first pitch (^8 meters) starts at obvious west-southwest facing end, at the end of assent trail. Climb through series of small roofs with crappy rock quality to gain ledge. Rock is really smoth on the first 4 meters. Anchor using tree/boulder set back from the ledge, or the two bolts 1m behind the edge. Second pitch starts at a tree back against the rock and wanders up right through some more crappy but easy rock. Good anchor with two bolts and a chain on the small ledge. Start the third pitch straight up to the top. Two anchors with Maillon rapide are at the top to rappel.

Equipment: 2 x Sling 1m 1 x Set of Cams 1 x Hex for first pitch. 5 x 40-60cm slings to extend the cams

From obvious west-facing end, climb right down some scree and head along the base of the cliff about 5 meters. Follow obvious system of cracks up and left towards the ledge with a tree. Anchor on the ledge using the tree and the horizontal cracks at eye-height. Second pitch begins by stepping out into space into good stance underneath a small roof. Place gear and wander up through a small sloping slab/chimney with an exciting one-move crux roof-pull, then easy ground straight up to bolted anchors at the top. Place gear carefully. Rock quality is crap.

An attempt to find that rare route on Buruku with rock you are willing to trust gear in. On north side of monolith. So named for bats who live deep within the crack right who were surprised by Laura Staupin when attempted to climb the using her body as a wedge. Needless to say, Laura wound up coated with bat shit. Currently a short one pitch route that tops out underneath a roof at top of vertical crack systems with series of small roofs. Second pitch was work in progress, but not looking good due to chaussy garbage to the left, right and above.