Buruku Rock All trad climbing

3 routes in crag

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Description

Buruku Rock is a gneiss pillar.

Approach

Park your car south east of the rock, where the small path to the huts starts. From there go up the hill and follow the ride to the rock.

Where to stay

Best is to camp at the rock.

History

Buruku Rock was first climbed by Dr Swaine and Pete (?) in 1973

Routes

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Grade Route
1
5.6 * Standard Route Mixed 60m, 2

Short first pitch (^8 meters) starts at obvious west-southwest facing end, at the end of assent trail. Climb through series of small roofs with crappy rock quality to gain ledge. Anchor using tree/boulder set back from the ledge. Second pitch starts at a tree back against the rock and wanders up right through some more crappy but easy rock. On the small ledge start the third pitch straight up to the top. Two anchors are at the top to rappel.

Set by Dr Swaine and Pete (?)

FFA: Dr Swaine and Pete (?)

FA: Dr Swaine and Pete (?)

2
5.6 * Unknown #2 Trad 50m

From obvious west-facing end, climb right down some scree and head along the base of the cliff about 5 meters. Follow obvious system of cracks up and left towards the ledge with a tree. Anchor on the ledge using the tree and the horizontal cracks at eye-height. Second pitch begins by stepping out into space into good stance underneath a small roof. Place gear and wander up through a small sloping slab/chimney with an exciting one-move crux roof-pull, then easy ground straight up to bolted anchors at the top. Place gear carefully. Rock quality is crap.

Set by Dr Swaine and Pete (?)

FFA: Dr Swaine and Pete (?)

FA: Dr Swaine and Pete (?)

3
5.7 * Bat Shit Crack Trad 18m

An attempt to find that rare route on Buruku with rock you are willing to trust gear in. On north side of monolith. So named for bats who live deep within the crack right who were surprised by Laura Staupin when attempted to climb the using her body as a wedge. Needless to say, Laura wound up coated with bat shit. Currently a short one pitch route that tops out underneath a roof at top of vertical crack systems with series of small roofs. Second pitch was work in progress, but not looking good due to chaussy garbage to the left, right and above.

Set by Kelly Baker

FFA: Kelly Baker

FA: Kelly Baker, Laura Staupin, Danielle Knuppel, 2012

Open trips

There are no open trips for this crag

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