Palionisos Crag guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Lee Cujes peta barrett Campbell Gome Scott Hailstone Brendan Heywood Chris Beric Jason Smith Andrew Lightfoot Susy G Joey Friedmann

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

1. Palionisos 79 in Crag
- 1.1. Sikati 36 in Crag
- 1.2. The Beach 3 in Crag
- 1.3. Secret Garden 31 in Crag
- 1.4. Palionisos Red Wall 6 in Crag
- 1.5. Palionisos Bay 3 in Crag
2. Index by grade

1. Palionisos 79 routes in Crag

seasonality

Summary:: All Sport

1.1. Sikati 36 routes in Crag

Summary:
Description:: Sikati Cave is a wild, massive hole in the ground which looks like it’s been created by a giant meteorite impact. Climbers call it Sikati, but the locals call it Alatsia. Sikati is an enormous cave with no roof, a diameter of 50-60 m, and a depth of 70 m at parts. Its surrounding walls are full of tufas and stalactites. Inside Sikati Cave the steep, overhanging limestone is a bit “out of this world” with enormously long routes up the walls, and ‘trade-mark’ Kalymnian 3D climbing.

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	BMW	6b	Sport 15m
2	B69	5b+	Sport 15m
3	Exit	4a	Sport 15m
4	Abraziz	5c+	Sport 20m
5	Adini	5c	Sport 25m
6	Abrazos	6c+	Sport 20m
7	El Choco Loco	6b+	Sport 25m	Jason Smith 12 months ago Not a bad warmup peta barrett 1 years ago Better than it looks.
8	El Chupodromo	6c+	Sport 25m	Jason Smith 12 months ago A bit chossy really Lee Cujes 2 years ago Hard with the possibility for dangerous falls.
9	Les Pirates de Sikati	7a+	Sport 30m
10	Les Pirates de Sikati plus	8a	Sport 45m
11	Les dents de la mer	7c	Sport 40m
12	Les dents de la mer extension	8b+	Sport 55m
13	Jaws	8a	Sport 20m
14	Jaws extension 1	8b+	Sport 35m
15	Jaws extension 2	8c	Sport 50m
16	Mort Aux Chevres	7b	Sport 30m	Jason Smith 12 months ago "death to the goats" Great climb, nothing too hard peta barrett 1 years ago Awesome stepladder of tufas!!!
17	Mort aux Chevres extension open project	8b+	Sport Project 60m
18	Morgan	7b+	Sport 25m	Scott Hailstone 11 months ago 2nd shot of day, would have loved to have tackled the extension but maybe next time ... Jason Smith 12 months ago First 7b+ onsight. Big easy tufa forest, then missing bolt, tricky clip and the crux
19	Adam	7c+	Sport 32m	Lee Cujes 2 years ago Big rope draggy fight. Used to be 8a, but people (including me) skirt the business so now it's 7c+
20	Morgan Adam est une Andalouse	8b	Sport 75m
21	Por una sociedad con mujeres satisfechas	7c+	Sport
22	Por una sociedad con mujeres satisfechas extension 1	8b	Sport
23	Por una sociedad con mujeres satisfechas extension 2	8b+ to 8c	Sport 60m
24	Les Arts du Vide	8b	Sport 40m
25	Lolita	7a	Sport 25m	Jason Smith 12 months ago Hot just as the sun was leaving. Polished and run out - mmnnn peta barrett 1 years ago Brilliant!
26	Super Lolita	8a	Sport 45m
27	Kalyrock.com	7a	Sport 26m
28	Kalyrock.com extension 1	7b+	Sport 48m
29	Kalyrock.com extension 2	7c	Sport 70m
30	Little Bulbos	7c+	Sport 33m
31	Armata Sikati	7b	Sport 30m	Jason Smith 11 months ago Freaking awesome - would be mega classic without the rests
32	Armata Sikati extension	7b+	Sport 50m
33	Laurent ... y' a quelque' un	7c	Sport 38m
34	Ou est l, equipe	7b	Sport 25m
35	Body Buldeuse	7b+	Sport 20m
36	Kontrato	7a+	Sport 20m	Jason Smith 11 months ago Slippery and chossy - like Kangeroo Point in a layer of salt

1.2. The Beach 3 routes in Crag

Summary:

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Family Business	5b	Sport 25m
2	Ciuccia Bau	6b	Sport 30m
3	Elizabeth	7a+	Sport 25m

1.3. Secret Garden 31 routes in Crag

Summary:

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	Achinos	6a+	Sport 25m	Susy G 1 years ago With Sam. Nyeh. Boring as batshit bochere rand 1 years ago warmup.. found this hard to read - may be im not used to climbing routes that dont have chalk all...
2	Sam Suffit	7a	Sport 20m	Susy G 1 years ago With Owen who onsighted it superbly. Chris Beric 1 years ago got through the crux on first attempt, sent on 2nd attempt no worries. Awesome big moves!
3	Markoutsi	7b	Sport 25m
4	Magiorus	6c+	Sport 25m
5	Remetzo	6c	Sport 20m
6	Bratsera	6c	Sport 20m	Susy G 1 years ago With Sam, Sweet!!! fun working this with Sam and Bo. Love the walk in to this crag. Andrew Lightfoot 1 years ago Super bouldery with a very cool crux sequence. Definitely look for the least trodden path. ;)
7	Margarita	6b+	Sport 20m
8	Dialada	7b+	Sport 25m
9	Syrtaki Lessons	8a	Sport 25m
10	Savina	8a	Sport 25m
11	Chien Jaune	7b+	Sport 35m	Lee Cujes 1 years ago I guess this was the least clean line here but it offered a good challenge and a fantastic kneeba... Lee Cujes 1 years ago Ripped a tufa knob off and plunged onto the second bolt. Then went bolt to bolt.
12	Half Job FFA: Liam Halsey, 2011	7b+	Sport 30m	peta barrett 1 years ago More like 7b+\c. And this is also thought by the guy who was climbing with us who regularly onsig...
13	Pomponpidoux	7b	Sport 30m	Lee Cujes 1 years ago An arching line of blobs leading to a corner, then headwall. Felt fairly solid all the way.
14	Route 69	7b+	Sport 30m
15	Melodrama	6c+	Sport 25m	peta barrett 1 years ago Pumpy when damp!!! Susy G 1 years ago With Andy. Another delicous climb in "Estonia". Huge juggy tufas and finish on a positive curtain...
16	Frapogalo	6c	Sport 25m	bochere rand 1 years ago at my limit at the time of attempt - FANTASTIC steep bouldery climbing Andrew Lightfoot 1 years ago Just amazing climbing! Powerful moves to huge holds, what more could you want?
17	Ballos	7b to 7b	Sport 25m	Lee Cujes 1 years ago Well worth doing, and could have been a mega classic. The bugger is that the routes are too close... Lee Cujes 1 years ago Stood on rockmelon sized tufa blob at end of crux which parted company from the wall. I'm losing ...
18	Adolflah Aut	7a+	Sport 25m	peta barrett 12 months ago Still wet. Feels like climbing on tufa paste mmmmm! Made for an interesting crux... peta barrett 1 years ago Spoogy essential hold. Should go a treat when dry!!!
19	Ikariotikos	7b	Sport 25m	Lee Cujes 1 years ago Wow, the tufa curtain part of this was hard! Wrestling with a 1m x 5cm tufa blade. Beast.
20	Ricounet	7a	Sport 25m
21	Crisis	7a	Sport 25m	Chris Beric 1 years ago insane technical climbing.. lots of loose hols still on the climb as with most of the secret gard... Lee Cujes 1 years ago Climbs a bit differently (and is harder) than first impressions.
22	Princesse Marine	8a+	Sport 25m
23	L'Insoutenable legerete de l'etre	7b	Sport 25m
24	Apocalypse	6c+	Sport 20m
25	The Flood Gates p1	6c+	Sport 18m	Lee Cujes 1 years ago Desperate - and I mean desperate - slab climbing. Owen did amazingly to onsight this. 6c+ = the n...
26	The Flood Gates p2 FFA: Neil Gresham, 2011	8a+	Sport 40m
27	Stigma	7b	Sport 20m
28	Bourree Mais Pas Pleine	7b+	Sport 40m
29	Puffa Puffa Puffa FFA: Rob Russell, 2011	7c	Sport 30m	Lee Cujes 1 years ago May end up being good, but needs a lot more cleaning (i.e. a proper clean with hammer and large b...
30	Mayumba	7a+	Sport 25m
31	Ymer	6b	Sport 15m

1.4. Palionisos Red Wall 6 routes in Crag

Summary:

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	Meister proper	6a+	Sport 30m
2	Ma tante Daiye	6c	Sport 30m	peta barrett 1 years ago Good and pumpy.
3	Brad Spit	7a+	Sport 30m	peta barrett 1 years ago One tricky section hard to read as it looks like it clashes with the next climb...it doesn't! Scott Hailstone 1 years ago Good luck trying on site this sucka!
4	Rha Ma Dent	6c+	Sport 30m	peta barrett 1 years ago Watch for crumbling rock but otherwise good!
5	Flipper	7a	Sport 30m	peta barrett 1 years ago Everything you need is there... Scott Hailstone 12 months ago Lots of hidden pockets and kinda hard to read, felt like I was on the route forever
6	Os Court	7a+	Sport 30m	peta barrett 1 years ago Would be an awesome route if most of the holds weren't still breaking off. Potentially dangerous ... Scott Hailstone 12 months ago Sweet line and cracker crux, but the rock on this route is not great in places and it is potentia...

1.5. Palionisos Bay 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
Approach:: Head towards Palionisos Beach. Go to the end of the road and follow the dirt road. Before the beach, turn left to tavern Ilias and park at the tavernas parking lot at the end of the road. Continue along a fence. Scramble up hill following obvious blue dots and cairns to even more obvious crag with orange roof.

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	Iltis	6b	Sport 25m	peta barrett 1 years ago Delicate climbing on features plus cauliflower rock. Still new so bits may come off!!!
2	Baden Mit und Ohne	7a	Sport 30m	peta barrett 1 years ago Rock exploding fun! Bit cleaner now that some bits have come off....taking me with it!!! Good fu...
3	Novembersonne	7b	Sport 30m	peta barrett 1 years ago This climb could be an absolute classic once cleaned up. At the moment, half of it is encrusted ...

2. Index by grade

Grade	Name	Style	Area
4a	Exit	Sport 15m	1.1. Sikati
5b	Family Business	Sport 25m	1.2. The Beach
5b+	B69	Sport 15m	1.1. Sikati
5c	Adini	Sport 25m	1.1. Sikati
5c+	Abraziz	Sport 20m	1.1. Sikati
6a+	Achinos	Sport 25m	1.3. Secret Garden
	Meister proper	Sport 30m	1.4. Palionisos Red Wall
6b	BMW	Sport 15m	1.1. Sikati
	Ciuccia Bau	Sport 30m	1.2. The Beach
	Ymer	Sport 15m	1.3. Secret Garden
	Iltis	Sport 25m	1.5. Palionisos Bay
6b+	El Choco Loco	Sport 25m	1.1. Sikati
	Margarita	Sport 20m	1.3. Secret Garden
6c	Bratsera	Sport 20m	1.3. Secret Garden
	Frapogalo	Sport 25m	1.3. Secret Garden
	Remetzo	Sport 20m	1.3. Secret Garden
	Ma tante Daiye	Sport 30m	1.4. Palionisos Red Wall
6c+	Abrazos	Sport 20m	1.1. Sikati
	El Chupodromo	Sport 25m	1.1. Sikati
	Apocalypse	Sport 20m	1.3. Secret Garden
	Magiorus	Sport 25m	1.3. Secret Garden
	Melodrama	Sport 25m	1.3. Secret Garden
	The Flood Gates p1	Sport 18m	1.3. Secret Garden
	Rha Ma Dent	Sport 30m	1.4. Palionisos Red Wall
7a	Kalyrock.com	Sport 26m	1.1. Sikati
	Lolita	Sport 25m	1.1. Sikati
	Crisis	Sport 25m	1.3. Secret Garden
	Ricounet	Sport 25m	1.3. Secret Garden
	Sam Suffit	Sport 20m	1.3. Secret Garden
	Flipper	Sport 30m	1.4. Palionisos Red Wall
	Baden Mit und Ohne	Sport 30m	1.5. Palionisos Bay
7a+	Kontrato	Sport 20m	1.1. Sikati
	Les Pirates de Sikati	Sport 30m	1.1. Sikati
	Elizabeth	Sport 25m	1.2. The Beach
	Adolflah Aut	Sport 25m	1.3. Secret Garden
	Mayumba	Sport 25m	1.3. Secret Garden
	Brad Spit	Sport 30m	1.4. Palionisos Red Wall
	Os Court	Sport 30m	1.4. Palionisos Red Wall
7b	Armata Sikati	Sport 30m	1.1. Sikati
	Mort Aux Chevres	Sport 30m	1.1. Sikati
	Ou est l, equipe	Sport 25m	1.1. Sikati
	Ikariotikos	Sport 25m	1.3. Secret Garden
	L'Insoutenable legerete de l'etre	Sport 25m	1.3. Secret Garden
	Markoutsi	Sport 25m	1.3. Secret Garden
	Pomponpidoux	Sport 30m	1.3. Secret Garden
	Stigma	Sport 20m	1.3. Secret Garden
	Novembersonne	Sport 30m	1.5. Palionisos Bay
7b to 7b	Ballos	Sport 25m	1.3. Secret Garden
7b+	Armata Sikati extension	Sport 50m	1.1. Sikati
	Body Buldeuse	Sport 20m	1.1. Sikati
	Kalyrock.com extension 1	Sport 48m	1.1. Sikati
	Morgan	Sport 25m	1.1. Sikati
	Bourree Mais Pas Pleine	Sport 40m	1.3. Secret Garden
	Chien Jaune	Sport 35m	1.3. Secret Garden
	Dialada	Sport 25m	1.3. Secret Garden
	Half Job	Sport 30m	1.3. Secret Garden
	Route 69	Sport 30m	1.3. Secret Garden
7c	Kalyrock.com extension 2	Sport 70m	1.1. Sikati
	Laurent ... y' a quelque' un	Sport 38m	1.1. Sikati
	Les dents de la mer	Sport 40m	1.1. Sikati
	Puffa Puffa Puffa	Sport 30m	1.3. Secret Garden
7c+	Adam	Sport 32m	1.1. Sikati
	Little Bulbos	Sport 33m	1.1. Sikati
	Por una sociedad con mujeres satisfechas	Sport	1.1. Sikati
8a	Jaws	Sport 20m	1.1. Sikati
	Les Pirates de Sikati plus	Sport 45m	1.1. Sikati
	Super Lolita	Sport 45m	1.1. Sikati
	Savina	Sport 25m	1.3. Secret Garden
	Syrtaki Lessons	Sport 25m	1.3. Secret Garden
8a+	Princesse Marine	Sport 25m	1.3. Secret Garden
	The Flood Gates p2	Sport 40m	1.3. Secret Garden
8b	Les Arts du Vide	Sport 40m	1.1. Sikati
	Morgan Adam est une Andalouse	Sport 75m	1.1. Sikati
	Por una sociedad con mujeres satisfechas extension 1	Sport	1.1. Sikati
8b+	Jaws extension 1	Sport 35m	1.1. Sikati
	Les dents de la mer extension	Sport 55m	1.1. Sikati
	Mort aux Chevres extension	Sport Project 60m	1.1. Sikati
8b+ to 8c	Por una sociedad con mujeres satisfechas extension 2	Sport 60m	1.1. Sikati
8c	Jaws extension 2	Sport 50m	1.1. Sikati

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Crag Guide for Palionisos