A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

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Table of contents

1. Palionisos 101 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
All Sport
Ethic: inherited from Kalymnos

Full bolted sport climbing with a documented bolting standard.

1.1. Sikati 38 routes in Crag

Summary:
Description:

Sikati Cave is a wild, massive hole in the ground which looks like it’s been created by a giant meteorite impact. Climbers call it Sikati, but the locals call it Alatsia. Sikati is an enormous cave with no roof, a diameter of 50-60 m, and a depth of 70 m at parts. Its surrounding walls are full of tufas and stalactites. Inside Sikati Cave the steep, overhanging limestone is a bit “out of this world” with enormously long routes up the walls, and ‘trade-mark’ Kalymnian 3D climbing.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** BMW 6bSport 15m
2 * B69 5b+Sport 15m
3 Exit 4aSport 15m
4 Abraziz 5c+Sport 20m
5 Adini 5cSport 25m
6 Abrazos 6c+Sport 20m
7 * El Choco Loco 6b+Sport 25m Jason Smith 1 years ago

Not a bad warmup

peta barrett 2 years ago

Better than it looks.

8 *** El Chupodromo 6c+Sport 25m Jason Smith 1 years ago

A bit chossy really

Lee Cujes 3 years ago

Hard with the possibility for dangerous falls.

9 *** Les Pirates de Sikati 7a+Sport 30m
10 *** Les Pirates de Sikati plus 8aSport 45m
11 *** Les dents de la mer 7cSport 40m
12 *** Les dents de la mer extension 8b+Sport 55m
13 *** Jaws 8aSport 20m
14 *** Jaws extension 1 8b+Sport 35m
15 *** Jaws extension 2 8cSport 50m
16 *** Mort Aux Chevres 7bSport 30m Jason Smith 1 years ago

"death to the goats" Great climb, nothing too hard

peta barrett 2 years ago

Awesome stepladder of tufas!!!

17 Mort aux Chevres extension

open project

8b+Sport Project 60m
18 ** Morgan 7b+Sport 25m Scott Hailstone 1 years ago

2nd shot of day, would have loved to have tackled the extension but maybe next time ...

Jason Smith 1 years ago

First 7b+ onsight. Big easy tufa forest, then missing bolt, tricky clip and the crux

19 *** Adam 7c+Sport 32m Lee Cujes 3 years ago

Big rope draggy fight. Used to be 8a, but people (including me) skirt the business so now it's 7c+

20 *** Morgan Adam est une Andalouse 8bSport 75m
21 *** Por una sociedad con mujeres satisfechas 7c+Sport
22 *** Por una sociedad con mujeres satisfechas extension 1 8bSport
23 *** Por una sociedad con mujeres satisfechas extension 2 8b+ to 8cSport 60m
24 *** Les Arts du Vide 8bSport 40m
25 *** Lolita 7aSport 25m Jason Smith 1 years ago

Hot just as the sun was leaving. Polished and run out - mmnnn

peta barrett 2 years ago

Brilliant!

26 *** Super Lolita 8aSport 45m
27 Kalyrock.com 7aSport 26m
28 Kalyrock.com extension 1 7b+Sport 48m
29 Kalyrock.com extension 2 7cSport 70m
30 Little Bulbos 7c+Sport 33m
31 Armata Sikati 7bSport 30m Jason Smith 1 years ago

Freaking awesome - would be mega classic without the rests

32 Armata Sikati extension 7b+Sport 50m
33 *** Laurent ... y' a quelque' un 7cSport 38m
34 *** Ou est l, equipe 7bSport 25m
35 *** Dropzone 6c+Sport 25m
36 *** Happy Boyfriend 6a+Sport 30m
37 *** Body Buldeuse 7b+Sport 20m
38 *** Kontrato 7a+Sport 20m Jason Smith 1 years ago

Slippery and chossy - like Kangeroo Point in a layer of salt

1.2. The Beach 5 routes in Crag

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Family Business 5bSport 25m
2 Ciuccia Bau 6bSport 30m
3 Elizabeth 7a+Sport 25m
4 ** Levante 6bSport 18m
5 Bronchitos 6aSport 16m

1.3. Secret Garden 49 routes in Crag

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Parthenis 5cSport 25m
2 Pantremenos 5cSport 25m
3 Roofianos 6bSport 18m
4 Kalolimnos 6a+Sport 20m
5 Nissos Pita 6b+Sport 25m
6 Achinos 6a+Sport 25m Susy G 2 years ago

With Sam. Nyeh. Boring as batshit

bochere rand 2 years ago

warmup.. found this hard to read - may be im not used to climbing routes that dont have chalk all...

7 Ricci di mare 6b+Sport 28m
8 Luca e Betty 6cSport 18m
9 Luca e Betty extension 7a+Sport 28m
10 Baglamas 7a+Sport 20m
11 ** Sam Suffit 7aSport 20m Susy G 2 years ago

With Owen who onsighted it superbly.

Chris Beric 2 years ago

got through the crux on first attempt, sent on 2nd attempt no worries. Awesome big moves!

12 Markoutsi 7bSport 25m
13 Magiorus 6c+Sport 25m
14 Remetzo 6cSport 20m
15 ** Bratsera 6cSport 20m Susy G 2 years ago

With Sam, Sweet!!! fun working this with Sam and Bo. Love the walk in to this crag.

Andrew Lightfoot 2 years ago

Super bouldery with a very cool crux sequence. Definitely look for the least trodden path. ;)

16 Margarita 6cSport 20m
17 Dialada 7bSport 25m
18 Syrtaki Lessons 7c+Sport 25m
19 Savina 7c+Sport 25m
20 Chien Jaune 7b+Sport 35m Lee Cujes 2 years ago

I guess this was the least clean line here but it offered a good challenge and a fantastic kneeba...

Lee Cujes 2 years ago

Ripped a tufa knob off and plunged onto the second bolt. Then went bolt to bolt.

21 Half Job

FFA: Liam Halsey, 2011

7b+Sport 30m peta barrett 2 years ago

More like 7b+\c. And this is also thought by the guy who was climbing with us who regularly onsig...

22 Pomponpidoux 7bSport 30m Lee Cujes 2 years ago

An arching line of blobs leading to a corner, then headwall. Felt fairly solid all the way.

23 Route 69 7b+Sport 30m
24 *** Melodrama 6c+Sport 25m peta barrett 2 years ago

Pumpy when damp!!!

Susy G 2 years ago

With Andy. Another delicous climb in "Estonia". Huge juggy tufas and finish on a positive curtain...

25 *** Frapogalo 6cSport 25m bochere rand 2 years ago

at my limit at the time of attempt - FANTASTIC steep bouldery climbing

Andrew Lightfoot 2 years ago

Just amazing climbing! Powerful moves to huge holds, what more could you want?

26 ** Ballos 7a+Sport 25m Lee Cujes 2 years ago

Well worth doing, and could have been a mega classic. The bugger is that the routes are too close...

Lee Cujes 2 years ago

Stood on rockmelon sized tufa blob at end of crux which parted company from the wall. I'm losing ...

27 ** Adolflah Aut 7a+Sport 25m peta barrett 1 years ago

Still wet. Feels like climbing on tufa paste mmmmm! Made for an interesting crux...

peta barrett 2 years ago

Spoogy essential hold. Should go a treat when dry!!!

28 Ikariotikos 7bSport 25m Lee Cujes 2 years ago

Wow, the tufa curtain part of this was hard! Wrestling with a 1m x 5cm tufa blade. Beast.

29 *** Ricounet 6c+Sport 25m
30 Crisis 7aSport 25m Chris Beric 2 years ago

insane technical climbing.. lots of loose hols still on the climb as with most of the secret gard...

Lee Cujes 2 years ago

Climbs a bit differently (and is harder) than first impressions.

31 Princesse Marine 7c+Sport 25m
32 L'Insoutenable legerete de l'etre 7bSport 25m
33 Tricky Katie 7aSport 20m
34 Apocalypse 6c+Sport 20m
35 The Flood Gates p1 6c+Sport 18m Lee Cujes 2 years ago

Desperate - and I mean desperate - slab climbing. Owen did amazingly to onsight this. 6c+ = the n...

36 The Flood Gates p2

FFA: Neil Gresham, 2011

8a+Sport 40m
37 Stigma 7bSport 20m
38 Khaos (Stigma ext) Sport Project 40m
39 Bourree Mais Pas Pleine 7b+Sport 40m
40 The Silence of the Abyss 8a+Sport 38m
41 Abyssos Sport Project 38m
42 Puffa Puffa Puffa

FFA: Rob Russell, 2011

7cSport 30m Lee Cujes 2 years ago

May end up being good, but needs a lot more cleaning (i.e. a proper clean with hammer and large b...

43 Dogma 7c+Sport 30m
44 Narcissus 8aSport 30m
45 *** Kaly Diva 7cSport 30m
46 Play Buzuki 7c+Sport 30m
47 Mayumba 7a+Sport 25m
48 Mayumba extension 7cSport 30m
49 Ymer 6bSport 15m

1.4. Palionisos Red Wall 6 routes in Crag

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Meister proper 6a+Sport 30m
2 Ma tante Daiye 6cSport 30m peta barrett 2 years ago

Good and pumpy.

3 Brad Spit 7a+Sport 30m peta barrett 2 years ago

One tricky section hard to read as it looks like it clashes with the next climb...it doesn't!

Scott Hailstone 2 years ago

Good luck trying on site this sucka!

4 Rha Ma Dent 6c+Sport 30m peta barrett 2 years ago

Watch for crumbling rock but otherwise good!

5 Flipper 7aSport 30m peta barrett 2 years ago

Everything you need is there...

Scott Hailstone 2 years ago

Lots of hidden pockets and kinda hard to read, felt like I was on the route forever

6 Os Court 7a+Sport 30m peta barrett 2 years ago

Would be an awesome route if most of the holds weren't still breaking off. Potentially dangerous ...

Scott Hailstone 2 years ago

Sweet line and cracker crux, but the rock on this route is not great in places and it is potentia...

1.5. Palionisos Bay 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
Approach:

Head towards Palionisos Beach. Go to the end of the road and follow the dirt road. Before the beach, turn left to tavern Ilias and park at the tavernas parking lot at the end of the road. Continue along a fence. Scramble up hill following obvious blue dots and cairns to even more obvious crag with orange roof.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Iltis 6bSport 25m peta barrett 2 years ago

Delicate climbing on features plus cauliflower rock. Still new so bits may come off!!!

2 Baden Mit und Ohne 7aSport 30m peta barrett 2 years ago

Rock exploding fun! Bit cleaner now that some bits have come off....taking me with it!!! Good fu...

3 Novembersonne 7bSport 30m peta barrett 2 years ago

This climb could be an absolute classic once cleaned up. At the moment, half of it is encrusted ...

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
4a Exit Sport 15m 1.1. Sikati
5b Family Business Sport 25m 1.2. The Beach
5b+ * B69 Sport 15m 1.1. Sikati
5c Adini Sport 25m 1.1. Sikati
Pantremenos Sport 25m 1.3. Secret Garden
Parthenis Sport 25m 1.3. Secret Garden
5c+ Abraziz Sport 20m 1.1. Sikati
6a Bronchitos Sport 16m 1.2. The Beach
6a+ *** Happy Boyfriend Sport 30m 1.1. Sikati
Achinos Sport 25m 1.3. Secret Garden
Kalolimnos Sport 20m 1.3. Secret Garden
Meister proper Sport 30m 1.4. Palionisos Red Wall
6b ** BMW Sport 15m 1.1. Sikati
Ciuccia Bau Sport 30m 1.2. The Beach
** Levante Sport 18m 1.2. The Beach
Roofianos Sport 18m 1.3. Secret Garden
Ymer Sport 15m 1.3. Secret Garden
Iltis Sport 25m 1.5. Palionisos Bay
6b+ * El Choco Loco Sport 25m 1.1. Sikati
Nissos Pita Sport 25m 1.3. Secret Garden
Ricci di mare Sport 28m 1.3. Secret Garden
6c ** Bratsera Sport 20m 1.3. Secret Garden
*** Frapogalo Sport 25m 1.3. Secret Garden
Luca e Betty Sport 18m 1.3. Secret Garden
Margarita Sport 20m 1.3. Secret Garden
Remetzo Sport 20m 1.3. Secret Garden
Ma tante Daiye Sport 30m 1.4. Palionisos Red Wall
6c+ Abrazos Sport 20m 1.1. Sikati
*** Dropzone Sport 25m 1.1. Sikati
*** El Chupodromo Sport 25m 1.1. Sikati
Apocalypse Sport 20m 1.3. Secret Garden
Magiorus Sport 25m 1.3. Secret Garden
*** Melodrama Sport 25m 1.3. Secret Garden
*** Ricounet Sport 25m 1.3. Secret Garden
The Flood Gates p1 Sport 18m 1.3. Secret Garden
Rha Ma Dent Sport 30m 1.4. Palionisos Red Wall
7a Kalyrock.com Sport 26m 1.1. Sikati
*** Lolita Sport 25m 1.1. Sikati
Crisis Sport 25m 1.3. Secret Garden
** Sam Suffit Sport 20m 1.3. Secret Garden
Tricky Katie Sport 20m 1.3. Secret Garden
Flipper Sport 30m 1.4. Palionisos Red Wall
Baden Mit und Ohne Sport 30m 1.5. Palionisos Bay
7a+ *** Kontrato Sport 20m 1.1. Sikati
*** Les Pirates de Sikati Sport 30m 1.1. Sikati
Elizabeth Sport 25m 1.2. The Beach
** Adolflah Aut Sport 25m 1.3. Secret Garden
Baglamas Sport 20m 1.3. Secret Garden
** Ballos Sport 25m 1.3. Secret Garden
Luca e Betty extension Sport 28m 1.3. Secret Garden
Mayumba Sport 25m 1.3. Secret Garden
Brad Spit Sport 30m 1.4. Palionisos Red Wall
Os Court Sport 30m 1.4. Palionisos Red Wall
7b Armata Sikati Sport 30m 1.1. Sikati
*** Mort Aux Chevres Sport 30m 1.1. Sikati
*** Ou est l, equipe Sport 25m 1.1. Sikati
Dialada Sport 25m 1.3. Secret Garden
Ikariotikos Sport 25m 1.3. Secret Garden
L'Insoutenable legerete de l'etre Sport 25m 1.3. Secret Garden
Markoutsi Sport 25m 1.3. Secret Garden
Pomponpidoux Sport 30m 1.3. Secret Garden
Stigma Sport 20m 1.3. Secret Garden
Novembersonne Sport 30m 1.5. Palionisos Bay
7b+ Armata Sikati extension Sport 50m 1.1. Sikati
*** Body Buldeuse Sport 20m 1.1. Sikati
Kalyrock.com extension 1 Sport 48m 1.1. Sikati
** Morgan Sport 25m 1.1. Sikati
Bourree Mais Pas Pleine Sport 40m 1.3. Secret Garden
Chien Jaune Sport 35m 1.3. Secret Garden
Half Job Sport 30m 1.3. Secret Garden
Route 69 Sport 30m 1.3. Secret Garden
7c Kalyrock.com extension 2 Sport 70m 1.1. Sikati
*** Laurent ... y' a quelque' un Sport 38m 1.1. Sikati
*** Les dents de la mer Sport 40m 1.1. Sikati
*** Kaly Diva Sport 30m 1.3. Secret Garden
Mayumba extension Sport 30m 1.3. Secret Garden
Puffa Puffa Puffa Sport 30m 1.3. Secret Garden
7c+ *** Adam Sport 32m 1.1. Sikati
Little Bulbos Sport 33m 1.1. Sikati
*** Por una sociedad con mujeres satisfechas Sport 1.1. Sikati
Dogma Sport 30m 1.3. Secret Garden
Play Buzuki Sport 30m 1.3. Secret Garden
Princesse Marine Sport 25m 1.3. Secret Garden
Savina Sport 25m 1.3. Secret Garden
Syrtaki Lessons Sport 25m 1.3. Secret Garden
8a *** Jaws Sport 20m 1.1. Sikati
*** Les Pirates de Sikati plus Sport 45m 1.1. Sikati
*** Super Lolita Sport 45m 1.1. Sikati
Narcissus Sport 30m 1.3. Secret Garden
8a+ The Flood Gates p2 Sport 40m 1.3. Secret Garden
The Silence of the Abyss Sport 38m 1.3. Secret Garden
8b *** Les Arts du Vide Sport 40m 1.1. Sikati
*** Morgan Adam est une Andalouse Sport 75m 1.1. Sikati
*** Por una sociedad con mujeres satisfechas extension 1 Sport 1.1. Sikati
8b+ *** Jaws extension 1 Sport 35m 1.1. Sikati
*** Les dents de la mer extension Sport 55m 1.1. Sikati
Mort aux Chevres extension Sport Project 60m 1.1. Sikati
8b+ to 8c *** Por una sociedad con mujeres satisfechas extension 2 Sport 60m 1.1. Sikati
8c *** Jaws extension 2 Sport 50m 1.1. Sikati
? Abyssos Sport Project 38m 1.3. Secret Garden
Khaos (Stigma ext) Sport Project 40m 1.3. Secret Garden